has 20-40 cm of storm snow that was dry and winter like on the North
aspects. The new snow is masking the crevasses with weak bridges. A
fellow guide alerted us to a surface hoar layer that had formed the
afternoon before, and then was buried. We found it 5cm down when we
tested for it on the morning of the 7th, be interesting to see if it
hangs in there.
We climbed the Kallen/Roth yesterday (Sept 7th). A large cone of
spindrift/slough debris is bridging the bergshrund and making for an
easy crossing. Firm snow over ice providing comfortabe frontpointing,
and you can always dig through to ice easily for screws. The catch
slope just below the top of the route is holding 50-70cm of snow. We
did 2 half pitches, hugging the right side, to keep the belayer out
of the run out.
West ridge descent was coated in snow and slow so we backtracked out
of it and rappelled the Kallen/Roth in 5 x 60m raps.
Feels like winter above 2700 meters.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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