[MCR] Coast-Selkirks-Rockies

Drove back from the coast over the past couple of days. We climbed Yak Peak on a hot day Sunday and it was all dry even though there was a spot of snow on the summit of Whistler Mountain the day before. The Selkirks are looking drier than I would have thought although the north aspects are quite snowy down to glacier level, but Tupper is totally dry and the Rogers/Swiss Peaks area looks good too, Uto looks climbable with some snow on the ledges and even Sir D almost looks climbable but I wouldn't bother with that one. The Rockies are also looking pretty dry on the south aspects and fairly snowy on the norths. Certainly things like Castle are dry.

This could all change of course if the forecast holds true: the coast is supposed to get hammered later this week, with rain also in the Selkirks and showers in the Rockies. So get out there in the next day or so!

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Mt Athabasca size 2 avalanche standard route ramp

Mt Athabasca standard route ramp size 2 avalanche, ~30-50cm crown,
occurred today @ approximately 1300hrs. Roughly same dimensions as the
avalanche that occurred on August 28 (see MCR report Aug 28 and 29 -2
fatal) except for running a little further along the flats. A few
parties in the area and everyone accounted for.

FYI

Garth Lemke
ACMG assistant ski guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Athabasca etc

Climbed Mt Athabasca via the North Glacier route on Sept 21st. Good
travel until we turned onto the 'Ramp' where we started to run into
hard lens like windslabs sitting on the surface of the snow. Several
of the slabs were hard enough to walk on for a number of steps and up
to 25 cm thick. Hand shear tests revealed a resistant planar shear in
the recent snows down 20-30 cm. It all felt too funky so we escaped
the Ramp halfway across by climbing straight uphill to gain the bare
ice above the bergshrund. We descended the AA Col which was in good
shape. I think that the AA Col is the route of choice at present.

Sept 22 we headed up to a camp at the head of the Athabasca Glacier
for an attempt on Mt Snowdome. Passed the second step on climber's
right by running the gauntlet of the Snowdome seracs because
climber's left side looked heavily crevassed and open. Getting off of
the ramp leading up the third step involved some serious crevasse
negotiation with eggshell bridges over some scary crevasses. Can't
recommend this passage until winter snows provide some supportive
bridges.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report for the Rockies and Interior

The great weather came to an end last weekend with rain in the valleys and
snow up high on Sunday. As much as 20 cm of recent snow has been reported
above 2800m. Throughout the week the weather has been more like fall again
with cold nights and cool moody days.

Dribbles of water ice are beginning to form, but as usual at this time of
year I'm not getting my hopes up for ice climbing, except in the high
alpine, for at least another few weeks.

The main hazard of concern right now is the potential for rockfall,
especially in the 2500-3000m range. This is in the lower reaches of where
we've been getting solid overnight freezes and snowfall accumulations, but
also where it will heat up quickest if we get a shot of warm and/or sunny
weather.

The travel on glaciers has been good but still a little sporty with thinly
covered crevasses that will be hard to see with the recent snow and wind.
I would say this is the next most significant hazard at the moment, so be
extra cautious with the glacier travel and consider bringing along a
short, lightweight probe that will do a better job than a ski pole of
finding crevasses in problem areas.

Front range rock climbs are still good to go as are lower elevation rock
climbs such as Grassi Ridge, etc. (see last week's report). Yesterday
afternoon Kid Goat was in pretty good shape but a little moist and seepy
in places.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
ACMG AAG/ASG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Mummery

Just in to Mt. Mummery this weekend, Sept 19, 20, 21.

Saw the last few days of "September Summer" with very dry and warm
conditions in the alpine. There was no freeze at our camp at 2220m on the
east side of Mummery Gl. From our camp the approach to the standard route
(SE ridge) of Mummery was long and circuitous.

Of note, on glacier ice above 2700m (9000 ft) the late August storm snow has
settled into a sticky, moist snow layer up to 60cm deep. This layer is
bonding very well to the old snow surface.

Helen Sovdat
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] A-A Col amendment

Typo correction with regards to my A-A Col report:

"The big snow slope to the col offered nice stepping the entire way"
is supposed to be "nice step kicking the entire way".

Sean Isaac
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] A-A Col Route, Mt Athabasca, Canadian Rockies (Sept 19, 2008)

A-A Col Route, Mt. Athabasca, Canadian Rockies (Sept 19, 2008)

Found good conditions today (Friday) on the A-A Col route. Despite a
weak overnight freeze (+6.5 C @ 4:30 a.m. @ the Icefields campground),
travel conditions were good on 10cm of crunchy/crusty snow over the
ice of the A-A Glacier. The bergshrund is well filled in with snow and
scree and the big snow slope to the col offered nice stepping the
entire way. It was +4.5 C on the summit at 10 a.m.

Sean Isaac
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for Rockies and Interior September 19, 2008

Summer finally decided to live up to its name during its last few days,
with fantastic weather across the western ranges: clear and warm.

The heat wave has dried out front range and lower elevation peaks such as
Louis, Castle in the south; Ashler Ridge, Roche Miette, Pevril to the
north; and Uto, Eagle and Tupper. Higher ridges such as Temple and Edith
Cavell's E ridges, however, are still quite snowy in their upper halves
and will probably remain so until next year!

Overnight freezes have been reported to be a marginal. At 2450m in
K-Country (Petain Gl) two nights ago it was +7C at 4am with a light warm
south wind. Further north and west it seems to have been only a little
cooler: north of the Icefields Centre at 1600m it was +5C yesterday at
3am. By noon, melting snow was observed at the top of the north face of
Diadem Peak, and the glacier on the north side of Diadem had 30 cm of snow
on top of the older surface that was supportive in the morning and sloppy
by the afternoon.

With these warm temps rockfall and small surface sluffing has been
occurring on all aspects starting early in the morning and is a
significant hazard for all but the highest elevations in the range. For
example, Humble Horse is "in" but should not be considered until things
cool down significantly.

Travel on the ice continues to be good with good coverage over the crevasses
and bergschrunds. However, especially on shaded aspects and near the firn line
expect thinly hidden crevasses with weak, thin bridges.

All this said it looks like we'll be back to fall soon enough with cooling
temps, clouds, and light precipitation. All this could make for some good
alpine climbing by next week if the forecast holds true (and we don't get
too much snow)!

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
ACMG ASG/AAG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Bugaboos

Simon Robins and I just spent 4 days in the Bugaboos with a group. We climbed the NW ridge of Eastpost and one of the Pigeon Feathers via the Pigeon Fork of the Bugaboo Glacier.

Overall great conditions for general mountaineering. On the glaciers there is 15-20 cm of snow on older, hard surfaces and one has to be careful right at the old firn line where crevasses are thinly bridged. On the rock there is minimal snow on solar aspects below 2900 m. Yesterday, Friday, we saw a size 1.5 run off the north face of Marmolata and a large size 2 out of the Anniversary Chute, both wet snow avalanches after a night with no freeze.

All the eastern spires are dry on the solar aspects and parties were climbing McTech on the sunny days. The central spires are snowy but there is a possibility that a sunny route on the west face of Snowpatch would be doable on a day with no wind - Surf's Up perhaps? Lower angle terrain such as Pigeon is holding more snow and would be slippery. The Howsers are plastered but I bet the mixed routes are still snow over rock until we get a warmer spell that gets some water flowing...maybe this week!

A thunderstorm last night put down a trace of snow but today's sun should clear that off and conditions tomorrow should be as we saw them over the past few days.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Mt. Harrison

Climbed the North couloir on Mt. Harrison yesterday.  Conditions were variable with everything from great "snice" to boot top snow to bare alpine ice, with no windslabs or rockfall observed.  Ice anchors all the way up and down with minimal digging.  Less snow in the area, as you would expect, but the Southwest face route was covered from the last storm.   

 

The description from the 11000er's book has changed a bit.  The markers end at km 63 on the East White River Road and you want to turn onto "BrD" at km 65.  After about 10kms the road crosses a small creek and then cirlcles back east towards Smith Peak - the good camping is right before you cross the creek.  >From the campsite there is a good hand cut trail that is flagged with pink ribbon and it avoids most of the alder bash up the creek.  It starts 30 metres from the campsite on the opposite side of the creek.

 

A fun trip - well worth it!!

 

Cheers

 

Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 11th, 2008

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 11th, 2008.

 

Autumn/Winter seems to be here in the alpine. As usual, snow amounts and elevations vary greatly between aspects, elevations and ranges. However, it is safe to assume there may be sufficient snow for avalanching above 3000m everywhere and lower on north aspects close to the divide in all ranges. There have been scattered reports of weak layers within the recent storm snow. There is nowhere near enough observers in the mountains right now to verify this but it would be very wise to assume most big snow slopes in the alpine are suspect. If we get a warm weekend as forecasted, wet sloughs are also going to be a concern. 

 

Glacier travel is well into the tricky autumn season now. On Wednesday I was walking around small crevasses I am totally familiar with. I knew they were only covered by approx. 20cms of snow and I could not see them at all.  This is definitely the season to be carrying a short probe or a long ice axe on the glacier to avoid nasty surprises.

 

There seems to be a little less snow in the Columbias than the Rockies as of Wednesday. However, temperatures everywhere have been COLD out of the sun. 0 degrees 

C at the O'Hara parking lot at 1600hrs yesterday! Snow was not melting out of the sun down to 2500m yesterday between Moraine Lake and Lake O'Hara. I think it is safe to assume there is NO dry alpine rock right now close to the divide. 

 

Lots of alpine water ice forming. Keep in mind it is fresh and ephemeral in most places and the white stuff may have the consistency and strength of cold shaving cream.

 

East of the divide, routes like Castle mtn and Louis are mostly dry, but there is precip in the forecast for Friday.

 

It looks like it could be a beautiful weekend to be in the mountains. Choose your route with care and assume you may be moving a bit slowly between trailbreaking, snowed up rock and probing for crevasses. 

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Mt. Aberdeen

Climbed Mt Aberdeen yesterday September 10.   New snow consisted of 10 cm down low at the toe and up to 50 cm up high.  The new snow bonded well.   The second head wall after the Bergschrund slid during the last storm.  The steep ice lower down was extremely hard due to cold temps.  Felt like ice climbing in the winter.

I descended the south side to Paradise Valley.  Was actually in pretty good shape with a bit of running water and the new snow in the gully made for good traveling which was surprising.  Once I reached the old trail, I decided to cross the river little upstream, very easy, and a ten minute bushwhack with a 20 minute pleasant climb, I reached the trail that went to Annet Lake.   Was surprisingly easy -I would do that again.

Cold temps all day I  observed no rock fall.

Play safe,

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide

[MCR] South Summit Mt Victoria

Climbed the SE ridge of Victoria from Abbot Pass to the South summit
today. Very much like a winter ascent. Crampons on the whole way with
a lot of heavy work breaking trail through knee to thigh deep snow.
Moderate to strong northerly winds Tuesday afternoon and evening, we
encountered a number of small windslabs on route. I'd be suspect of
any large open slopes above 2800m right now.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Bugaboos September 7-9

Spent Sept. 7-9 in the Bugaboos. On the 8th we climbed Ears Between
on the Donkey's Ears and it was completely dry, as was the Mctech
Arete area. Once we topped out on the route we encountered 15-20 cms
of snow on shady aspects making for a slow descent down the ridge to
the Crescent/Eastpost col. Snow in between the slippery boulders is
hiding large holes. Despite the warmer temps (+15 in the pm) the snow
wasn't going anywhere fast on cooler aspects.

A look over to Snowpatch, Bugaboo, Pigeon, and the Howsers from the
top and one thing is clear, they are possibly out of commission for
the rest of the season, with winter conditions existing on all but the
most solar aspects. The Bugaboo/Snowpatch col has had a few small
slides down it in the last few days but looks to be in decent shape.
I talked to one party who tried to climb Pigeon 2 days ago via the
West Ridge and they stopped at the base of the route saying there was
over 30cms on everything. One other solo climber managed to get to
the technical pitches on the Kain route of Bugaboo Spire. He felt that
he almost broke his legs a dozen times with the slippery rock and was
in crampons the entire way.

There is still good climbing to be had on the lower, sunny spires,
just keep in mind that you might want to rappel the route or bring a
little extra gear for descents (ice/axe and perhaps crampons) if they
are on shady aspects. On a positive note, the spires certainly are not
crowded right now!

Steve Holeczi
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Tupper, Whyte

On Sunday we climbed Mt. Tupper via the west ridge. Generally speaking
the route was climbable but not in condition. In the morning there was
some verglass lower down on the rock and 5-10 cm of snow on ledges
higher up. 15 hrs car to car moving at a moderate pace.

Yesterday (Tues) we climbed Mt. Whyte via the north ridge.. Even more
snow there, 15-40 cm, but made for exciting classic mixed climbing and
felt like a real alpine route instead of a scramble! 11 hrs car to car
moving at a good pace. About 8 cm of new snow fell throughout the day
with lots of moderate winds from the NW that almost totally covered our
tracks on the way down.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies: The President

Climbed The President yesterday, Sat, Sept 7. 15-20 cm of recent snow above 2600m overlies a hard melt freeze crust. No wind slabbing observed. There have been reports of surface hoar on the surface elsewhere but I didn't see any. By the afternoon the snow was temperature affected all the way to the summit, even though the peaks had a lot of cloud about. 

Good travel conditions, and the schrund is easily passed on the climber's right.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Kallen/Roth, Mt Fay

Approached the Colgan Hut via the Perrin route on Sept 6th. Glacier
has 20-40 cm of storm snow that was dry and winter like on the North
aspects. The new snow is masking the crevasses with weak bridges. A
fellow guide alerted us to a surface hoar layer that had formed the
afternoon before, and then was buried. We found it 5cm down when we
tested for it on the morning of the 7th, be interesting to see if it
hangs in there.

We climbed the Kallen/Roth yesterday (Sept 7th). A large cone of
spindrift/slough debris is bridging the bergshrund and making for an
easy crossing. Firm snow over ice providing comfortabe frontpointing,
and you can always dig through to ice easily for screws. The catch
slope just below the top of the route is holding 50-70cm of snow. We
did 2 half pitches, hugging the right side, to keep the belayer out
of the run out.

West ridge descent was coated in snow and slow so we backtracked out
of it and rappelled the Kallen/Roth in 5 x 60m raps.

Feels like winter above 2700 meters.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Condiions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains, Sept 4th, 2008

Welcome to fall!  The series of storms and cooler temperatures over the last two weeks have brought quite a bit of snow to the main ranges of the Columbia and Rocky Mountains and created a mix of summer and winter hazards to watch for.  Snowline was down to treeline during the past few days and amounts of 10-50+ cm were reported from different areas up high in the alpine.

 

Snow amounts vary considerably with aspect and elevation and could be up to 1m thick in lee loaded areas, while steeper or more wind exposed areas may be mostly free of snow.  Moderate temperatures should help the storm snow bond into place, but a caution for wind slabs, especially on moderate angled lee slopes, is still recommended.  These weaknesses will likely persist a little longer on North aspects.   The snow and wind of the last two weeks have also done a good job of covering many crevasses with very thin snow bridges.  Diligence in probing and careful route finding on the glaciers will be a must over the next while.  Expect snow on most alpine rock routes along the Divide and the main ranges of the Columbia Mountains with some verglas on shady aspects.  Sunny aspects will have less snow, but driving through Lake Louise and Rogers Pass today it looked like there was still a fair bit of snow on ledges and gullies on all aspects down to around 2700m.

 

The good news is that with better weather forecast for the next few days, the cool temps and clear skies should make for decent travel conditions and begin to clear the snow off sunny aspects.  Be prepared to deal with a bit more trail breaking and watch carefully for the hazards created by the recent snowfall.  Ridge routes and routes with little overhead snow loading might be a good bet until you have a sense for snow amounts and avalanche hazard in your area.

 

As you move East of the divide, the alpine rock routes continue to be in fairly good shape with snow on North aspects but generally dry conditions on sunny aspects.  For example Mt Louis and Castle Mountain are snow free as of this morning, but expect bits of snow or ice on some of the ledges and gullies.  The walk off for Yamnuska is still lightly snow covered, but nice dry climbing exists on most routes that catch the sun.

 

Enjoy the beautiful fall weather!

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide

 

(P.S. It is sunny and hot in Skaha right now!)

[MCR] Mountain Condition Summary for the South Coast Mountains of BC

Well the good weather has finally arrived and conditions are looking excellent!

Up in the high country there is still a bit of new snow from last weeks storms that still hasn't completely melted off. This snow seems to be quite peak and location dependent as some peaks have no snow, yet others still have a fair bit.

With the recent cool temps travel on the snow and ice has been excellent, although you may want to think about the firm conditions when considering your route selection. It may be worth bringing a few extra ice screws and a picket or two if your heading up any steep snow or ice. Most bergshrunds and moats are a bit troublesome at the moment too. These cool temps have made rock climbing on the shady aspect a bit of cold endeavors, however climbing on the sunny sides couldn't be better!

Sounds as though things in Squamish are being a bit slow to dry but most of the classics are good to go. Freeway was climbed by a party yesterday and they reported only one wet hold.

Get out there this weekend and enjoy this great fall weather.

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rogers Pass, Glacier Park conditions September 4

It looks pretty white in many areas of Glacier Park.  The snowline is down to about 2700m in the Swiss Peaks area and the Sir Donald group.  Castor, Leda and Pollux and Bonney are also pretty white.  Peaks that still look reasonable, especially if the weather improves for the weekend, include Sifton, Tupper, Cheops, 8812 Peak/Ursus Major and Abbott - Afton.  They look to be pretty much snow free.  Watch for greasy rock on the north and east sides of these peaks.
 
Jordy Shepherd
Mountain Guide

---

[MCR] MCR, South Coast BC, Tantalus mountains,

Out for a few days in the Tantalus Range. In general excellent Autumn conditions.
Temps were quite cold in the past few days with daytime highs only getting a few degrees above freezing, even in the sun! This made for some very good cramponing and travel throughout the area. There is still a bit of new snow above 7000ft that doesn't seem to be melting although its mostly only in sheltered areas were it built up and never melted with the rain.

We climbed the north face of Serratus and found it still in good condition although there is a funky spot at the mid height crux steep section were you have to either down-climb though a bergshrund and out the other side (not that bad) or climb up some fairly easy rock and gain the steeper snow/ice face to the top (we did it this way). The Serac at the west side of the face has become a bit more active in the past few years but it still seems reasonable to cross it quickly while traveling a bit further out on the glacier. A few ice screws are handy for this route at the moment.

Dione was also climbed by a few parties on the weekend and the conditions on this peak are quite good as well. The bergshrund guarding the summit pyramid is overhanging across the whole east face, but there is still no problem gaining the face straight out of the col to the south. You can either climb the steep, clean 5.6 crack (hand size pro nice for the crux) to the rap slings or bypass this to the left in the chossy class 3 gully.

Tantalus looked to be holding a bit more new snow than the rest of the peaks, however it still looked climbable by a keen, competent party.

The Dione Glacier is down to bare ice in many places but the high traverse to the peak is still in good shape with very little problems with crevasses.
The direct snow couloir approach to both Tantalus and Dione is impassable now due to the size of the Burgshrund. The alternate "yes"couloir to the east is in it usual rubble strewn shape but still quite good.

Have fun out there, it looks like its going to be a good week.

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
cell 604 902 0296
craigskibum@yahoo.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Columbia Icefields....long weekend

3 days at the icefields over the long weekend. I know there were
other parties up and about but not sure whether they will report.
Parker's ridge still has some snow for schools but it is frozen and
semi icy needing crampons.

We opted for Boundary Peak on the 2nd day and the route is mostly ice
with a bit of new snow, Good travel. Descent via scree trail. Very
foggy on the Sunday with very light scattered precip and no winds.
Monday up Wilcox Peak which was dry.....clear by mid morning no winds.

Talked to a party who turned around on Silverhorn on Sunday due to
the lack of visibility. Asking what decent route they were going to
choose they were going to use the ramp. (which doesn't look like it has slid)
The new snowline seems to be aorund 9500ft with some variance. More
up higher for sure....

Did not see any other parties on Athabasca on the nicer Monday.(yesterday)
A fellow guide mentioned the AA col was doable a week ago for
descent. but this could have some slabbed pockets up high in the
gullies now and the most part is scree....
The ramp of course is still a concern, the runnout is over big
seracs, with even a small instability the consequences are big....
Maybe things will settle in or clean out but choose a place to test
the snow where the consequences are negligible.

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide, ACMG
pamann@incentre.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Jasper Front Ranges & New Routes - August 24 - 29, 2008

Spent a half dozen days rock climbing in the Front Ranges in Jasper National
Park. The week of August 24 began hot and windy but quickly deteriorated to
much cooler weather with several bouts of showers accompanied by snow at
higher elevations. High temperatures were typically in the teens and winds
were moderate or even strong throughout that period. This snowy, windy
weather is what led to the fatalities on Mt. Athabasca of course and was
part of the reason why I was rock climbing instead of dealing with wind
slabs in the alpine.

Peaks like Edith Cavell got pasted several times during this period and I am
guessing the previously dry conditions are now much less than stellar. Even
the perennially dry Colin Range got snow on two occasions during that week.
On both occasions the snow made a valiant attempt at melting off only to be
coated in snow yet again.

I cannot say how things fared over the long weekend as I was chased home by
a storm on Friday night after two weeks in the hills. I suspect that once
again the higher peaks along the divide got plastered but I cannot say for
sure. Perhaps Peter will report on his trip to the Columbia Icefields area
when he gets home (he is a regular reporter from that area.)

Climbed Morro Peak via the NWMC Mountaineers Route on the 24th. As reported
earlier this summer, the fist pitch had some bolts added and is now simply
clip and go (bring a screamer for the first piton). A dead battery precluded
any further work on the route. The second and third pitch are still easy but
runout on more loose rock. 4th and 5th pitches remain as always and bring
small to medium cams and medium wires for pitch four.

Put in a new route at Morro Slabs - River Rock on August 25 - see below.

August 26 climbed the diagonal route on Perdrix. Very cold and windy weather
had us wearing toques and gloves all throughout the ascent. Route was
entirely dry and was not affected by the recent snows due to its location on
the eastern edge of the park and its slightly lower elevation than peaks
along the divide. All of the peaks to the east of the Colin Range did not
get significantly affected by the recent rains and snows (not sure how they
were affected over the long weekend.) All of the fixed gear is still in
place on the route as reported in July. Descended the scrambles route.
Nothing to report other than the fact that there is not any water on the
route any longer as all of the snows feeding the gullies on the east side
have finally completely dried up.

August 27, 28 climbed in Hidden Valley (Alaska Bob, New Salt, Cadet,
Emporium Express, Slab Emporium). All of these routes are in good shape
after the earlier cleaning and bolting session. Alaska Bob is now a lot more
fun than before although it could use another two or three bolts, but no
matter, it has always been that way. Didn't do the rappels as the winds were
heinous yet again. Had Hidden Valley to ourselves for both days. Cold windy
weather may have deterred the crowds.

Put in two more new routes at Morro Slabs - River Rock on August 29. All
three of the new routes this week were put in with Jo Winfield. The River
Rock is the more northerly part of Morro Slabs that ends in the water. Years
ago folks used to practice trad climbing here but these days the slab is
rarely used except for SARTECH rescue training. There are now five bolted
routes set up for leading. They are slab routes that require a rappel
descent to the water's edge.You then pull the ropes for a full commitment
and lead your way out. VERY COOL.

Due to the potential for the rappel ropes to pull some loose rock onto your
head, always wear your helmet when climbing these routes. The approach is
under five minutes. All five existing bolted routes are listed from north to
south:

River Dance 5.7/5.8 - 8 bolts 30m
Dave Devin, C. Shokoples July 21, 2004
Rappel off Metolius rappel hangers on one of the northern most set of bolts.
Follow hangers to a two bolt station.

You Gonna Climb or You Gonna Swim? 5.5/5.6 - 6 bolts 30m
Jeremy Mackenzie, C. Shokoples July 1, 2004
Rappel off Metolius rappel hangers on the next set of bolts beside River
Dance to a two bolt station.

Deep Blue 5.5 - 7 bolts 25m
Jo Winfield, Cyril Shokoples August 24, 2008
Begin below the southern most of two large diameter metal posts drilled in
the slab during bridge construction in the 1960s. Rappel down to a large
grassy ledge to a two bolt belay. A number of older and easy trad routes can
also be accessed from this ledge and belay station as well. The new bolted
belay now makes this a reasonable proposition. The trad routes require
cleaning as the cracks fill in with dirt quickly each year and never get
climbed these days. In addition, the trad routes have some issues with loose
rock which the bolted routes avoid.

Turquoise Blue Water 5.8 or 5.5 variant - 9 bolts 31m
Jo Winfield, Cyril Shokoples August 29, 2008
Rappel from an older two bolt anchor near the far south margin of the River
Rock. Follow the bolts down to a small rock ledge with dual bolts just 30cm
above the high water line below you. A 60m rope JUST reaches with rope
stretch, so be sure you have knots in the end of your rope! This is the most
cool belay station of the five routes here. An old ring piton at the belay
reminds you that trad routes can also be done from here if you bring gear.
In the 1970s and 1980s I climbed three or four easy trad routes on either
side of where the bolts now sit. Others have done likewise over the years
(perhaps as early as the 1960s) but nothing was ever recorded. If you follow
the bolts closely and directly you get a nice 5.8 slab route. If you wander
back and forth you can bring the grade down to perhaps 5.5.

Aquasizes 5.6 - 8 bolts & 1 old piton 29m
Jo Winfield, Cyril Shokoples August 29, 2008
This route is the farthest south along this section of the rock that goes
into the river and as such is the only route that can readily be accessed
without a rappel. You can also rappel from the same bolts as Turquoise Blue
Water. Once again, I have done old trad routes on both sides of the bolts
dating back to the mid 1970s but they get done so rarely that I don't feel
badly about changing the esthetics with some bolts. There are not any belay
bolts at the lower station at present but I hope to rectify this some time
this autumn. Until then bring some gear to build a belay.

Stay warm...

Cyril Shokoples
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.rescuedynamics.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mts. Victoria and Lefroy

Spent the weekend at Abbott Pass.  Hiked up Friday with rain to 2900m. 

 

Explored Victoria Saturday morning with no intention of getting very far, and we didn't.  Turned around before the ridge due to a growing windslab that we didn't want to mess with. 

 

The weather settled briefly (stayed cold and calm, -9 @ 3:30) early Sunday morning and we managed to get up Lefroy.  Snow on the West face varied between boot top and mid thigh.  Everything was incredibly rimed up, very Scottish. 

 

As we left the hut the wind was back and it was snowing again.  The snow level was down to Lake Oesa Sunday morning.  We were glad to leave the high mountains...

 

Take care and be safe.

 

Cheers

 

Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide