Was up on the Perren Route yesterday with the intention of staying at the Neil Colgan Hut.
Hottest day in the alpine I have seen so far this summer. 22 degrees @12pm @2100m . Also, first day the winds were calm.
Turned around a the end of the rock traverse after the chain linked pitch. The entire ledge after the traverse is covered in 2m of snow and although it would be possible to gain the glacier by climbing the snow, it was moist and weakening by the minute.
We reversed the route and avoided the big snow slope below the chain pitch. There is still enough snow to cause large avalanches which have the potential to cover the lower parts of the route. I would avoid the route unless there is a good freeze and you are on it early in the day.
Big avalanches on all aspects running throughout the day off the ten peaks and Mt. Temple.
Lilla Molnar
Ski Guide, Assistant Alpine Guide
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