Climbed the Gmoser route today...
As Marc mentioned the route is mostly dry with just a few patches of snow in the gullies above where the Gmoser route joins the Kain route, but all of it is avoidable. Perren crack is totally dry but has snow at the base which is also easy to get around.
The descent has quite a bit of snow with hard ice in some spots - namely where you have to climb back up (after the 5th 30m rappel). The rock on the lookers right needed to be climbed to get up to the notch and the next anchor. All of the anchors are clearly visible.
We dropped into the big snow gulley to the lookers right of the normal descent trail and had a quick and easy return to the base. An ice axe would be advisible here.
Have fun!
Cheers
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide
Alpine Guide