Up the South Ridge yesterday. Most of the ascent was snow free with the odd section towards the top that you easily skirt around. Some large cornices dripping and sagging along the summit ridge (again easy to avoid).
The descent gully was knee to waist deep (in spots) snow until 2100 metres where it dried up. Easy walking down however there is still enough snow in there to get yourself into trouble on the wrong day (hot and direct sun). The clouds rolled in about halfway through our ascent and things cooled a bit otherwise I was going to descend back down the ridge to avoid the snow.
Have fun!
Cheers
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide
Alpine Guide