On May 3rd we went up the Athabasca glacier to the top of the ramp and set up camp. High 2 low -6. Height of snow on the lower glacier varied between 165 and 210cm. At 2800 the snowpack was over 385cm. In the P.M. moist snow on all aspects up to 2500M. Late spring up there and the glacier was still in good shape with good bridges and no sags. Traversing under the seracs seemed a dangerous option. as they are shedding regularly. A group had placed wands on the Athabasca gl. and all the way up the ramp towards Snowdome. Along the flats before the ramp these were close to the slopes below the serac's. I watched them get raked twice by serac fall. We took a line of approach as close as we dared to the obvious open slots on climbers left. Though this area is noted for more crevaces, it is 50 meters or more away and though there was debris there also it gave one greater margin of safety. Along this route we encountered no crevace problems and were able to quickly gain the large bench below the ramp where one can go well left. 10 minutes below seracs though we were hauling a sled (client training for Denali), probably 6 minutes for ski tourers. Still this route seems dangerous. I had a good look at the far climbers left option below Andromeda and I think this is a better choice to gain the ramp for the future. Although closer inspection is needed, it seems like the glacier has changed enough that it would go. To note is that there is an excellent crevace rescue location at the toe of the Athabasca on climbers right side. The site is easily accessed with a short hike from the summer road, has no hazards other than itself, is about 40 meters wide and 10-15 meters high. It can be seen from the parking lot.
Get out there,
Eric Dumerac
Ski guide/Assistant Alpine Guide
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