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Sunday, December 30, 2007

[MCR] Howson Range (Smithers/Terrace)

The Howson Range is currently blessed with about 280 cm HS (height of snow above the ground) at treeline. The top 60 cm is low-density storm snow from the past couple of weeks of cold storming. The snowpack appears wellsettled with little in the way of wind effect into the alpine. Stability tests and ski cutting have not identified any significant concerns regarding stability right now. That said there is a significant temperature gradient in the upper snowpack promoting facetting, and a huge quantity of available snow for transport if the wind picks up.

Excellent skiing from the top of Solitaire's "ski summit" today right to the Burnie Glacier Chalet.

The Howson Range is a rugged and heavily glaciated area with superb skiing, and is located 75 km due south of Gitwangat (aka Kitwanga). See attached photos.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG






Saturday, December 29, 2007

[MCR] Guinness Gulley

Hello,
 
Climbed the route today with Yamnuska's Ice Evolution. The first pitch is quite thin and also delaminated in a few spots. The first good gear that I found was about 10 feet from the top of the pitch....harder than usual. Also of note, below the final pitch there was a slab (30-40cm) formed from the sluff's coming off the rocks, this was sitting on facets and depth hoar and gave clean easy shears. Something to think about if you are heading up to the climbs above or into terrain with bigger consequences.
 
Enjoy!
 
Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

Friday, December 28, 2007

[MCR] Reality Check, Ski Smithers

The ice is thick, but brittle and the final pillar is very fat and
bulging. It is solid for the grade at the moment. Climbers might
consider moving the top rope anchor to a live tree some metres further
up. The access is in good shape. The road to the base of the chair is
ploughed and the gate is open.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] The Professor Falls

Climbed the route this morning. It is in good shape, but running with water on the first 3 pitches. You can stay dry by climbing the far right side on pitch 1 and the far left on pitch 2. It gets drier the higher you go, and the final pitch has seen some traffic, it is dry with good hooks. Keep in mind that although the wet ice offers easy swinging, placements must be treated with caution, and the chandelier surface ice must be cleared away to get good screws underneath. The road is in good shape for biking.

Have a safe New Year!

Jason Billing
ACMG Assistant Rock Guide




Thursday, December 27, 2007

[MCR] On Holidays Dec 22-Jan 11

Thanks for your email. I am away until Jan 11 and
will be unable to respond to your email until then.

Happy Holidays!

Tom Wolfe
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] auto-responder

Hi folks,

I just wanted to apologize if you are receiving auto-responder messages from Tom Wolfe, our MCR moderator, when you post or subscribe to the MCR. He is away on holiday until January 11 and, unfortunately, we have no access to his server. We will rectify this after he returns.

 

I wish you all a safe and wonderful winter.

 

Peter Tucker
Executive Director
Association of Canadian Mountain Guides
ed@acmg.ca
403-949-3587
403-689-4324 (cell)

[MCR] On Holidays Dec 22-Jan 11

Thanks for your email. I am away until Jan 11 and
will be unable to respond to your email until then.

Happy Holidays!

Tom Wolfe
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Monday, December 24, 2007

[MCR] On Holidays Dec 22-Jan 11

Thanks for your email. I am away until Jan 11 and
will be unable to respond to your email until then.

Happy Holidays!

Tom Wolfe
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies,West side Banff-Jasper highway, Little Bow Peak.

Toured on south end of the East face of Little Bow peak on sunday the 23rd.
 
Reasonable december ski travel uphill and down, but you are on the ground when you walk. Average snowpack was approx. 20cms of fluff to ski in, over 50cms of fairly strong snow over 30cms of  facetted junk over the ground.
 
Triggering a small slab avalanche on skiis seemed possible. What was worrisome was the thought of that small slab causing a failure deep in the facetted junk and thus getting smoked by a BIG avalanche. The wind was moving lots of snow at ridgetops, we had some small whumphs and it felt like the avalanche hazard was going to get worse before it gets better.   
 
From my one day in this neighbourhood I thought boring terrain choices seemed like a really good idea for awhile.
 
Scattered sleigh tracks above 3000m
 
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide

Saturday, December 22, 2007

[MCR] On Holidays Dec 22-Jan 11

Thanks for your email. I am away until Jan 11 and
will be unable to respond to your email until then.

Happy Holidays!

Tom Wolfe
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Nelson area snowpack

 Hello skiers and riders,

 

  Observations from Baldface catskiing's terrain, just outside of Nelson –  collected at guides training, Dec 19 – 21.

 

  The snowpack looks very inviting, as we've had a lot of powder snow fall over the last little while. However, we found it to be exceedingly dangerous. A solid raincrust which got buried in early December has a layer of weak facetted snow above it, and surface hoar crystals were found on top of the facets in many of our snowpits. This unfortunate combination of  weak snow over a hard sliding surface is now buried 70 – 90 centimeters down. 

  The depth of the weakness and its propensity to propogate widely is resulting in large avalanches up to size 3 which are easily triggered by the weight of a skier. These conditions exist on all aspects, and any steep open area from below the treeline to mountain top is suspect.

This will be a problem for a while, maybe a long while around here.

 For whatever reason, this layer is reportedly not as reactive a few drainages away, as per Mark Klassen's MCR report on Kokanee, but other local observers to the south and west are finding it to be as touchy as we did at Baldface. We rated the stability poor and the hazard high.

 

 Hoping everyone's safe,

 

 Joel McBurney

 ACMG Ski Guide

 Nelson, BC

 



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[MCR] On Holidays Dec 22-Jan 11

Thanks for your email. I am away until Jan 11 and
will be unable to respond to your email until then.

Happy Holidays!

Tom Wolfe
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Kokanee, Dec 14-22

Just finished a week at Kokanee Cabin, Dec 14-22.

Over a meter of snow fell during the week. The storm board had 80 cm on it at one point, with
ski penetration up to my hips at times. Temps remained cool, mostly ranging from -5 to -9
although on Dec 21 it dropped to -26 on our only clear day. Winds were light early in the week,
then moderate and southerly Wed-Thurs.

The 80-100cm of storm snow overlies a 10 cm thick weak layer (4F to 1F-) of rounding facets,
which in turn lies over a hard rain crust. This layer has not been reactive in the Kokanee area,
although we were treating it with caution. Windslabs on the surface seemed to be the main
concern late in the week.

An avalanche cycle occurred late Wednesday and into Thursday, soft windslabs 50 cm thick, size
1.5-2 and seemed to be predominately on north aspects in the alpine and SW crossloaded
aspects in treeline areas. They did not seem to be stepping down to the facet layer.

At the end of the week we were rating Danger at Considerable in the alpine, Moderate at
treeline and Low below treeline. We were avoiding wind effected areas and not exposing
ourselves to large features.

Mark Klassen
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Monday, December 17, 2007

[MCR] Bear Spirit Crag

Bear Spirit Crag is in great shape. There is a nice fat pillar, WI4, to warm up on and all the mixed routes can presently still be topped out.

As per usual, the ice later in the season will likely cover over many of the mixed routes and topping out will not be an option.

 

 

Rob Owens

Alpine guide

[MCR] Moonlight / Snowline (Dec 17)

Climbed Moonlight and Snowline today (Dec 17) in Evan-Thomas Creek in
Kananaskis Country. It was a mild day with the temperature hovering
around zero making for pleasant ice conditions. The bottom 10 meters
of both routes are thin (10cm screws can protect it) but they quickly
thicken up to accept 13cm screws and even 16cm screws by the 20m
height. Both have seen much traffic already thus nicely track-set with
good hooks and steps. The upper sections both offer wet plastic blue
ice.

2 Low 4 Zero is in its usual thin shape but it looks to have been
climbed recently (bring lots of stubby screws and maybe even a few
pins). Chantilly Falls looks blue and wet; however, the last step
hasn't fully filled out yet and looks a little bit too pillar-like to
be called WI2.

Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] The Professor Falls.

Climbed Professor's today, able to stay dry and avoid water on all
the pitches except the 4th step and it was quick and we stayed dry.
Pillar on the last pitch is about as hard as Professor's gets, steep
and chandeliery. It will get easier with traffic. I didn't feel that
there was enough snow above the climb to start an avalanche, but
there is a rain crust?Dec 3rd? on the surface, right to the top of
the climb, something to be aware of if significant snow comes.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Sunday, December 16, 2007

[MCR] Narao shoulder

Skied up towards the Narao shoulder from Lake O'Hara road yesterday
(Popes Peak tour in Summits & Icefields guidebook). Breaking trough
to ground every so often, less so the higher you go. Lots of
windscowered bare rock above treeline. Looked like you may have to
bootpack to make the shoulder because of lack of snow cover (we
turned around just above treeline). Poor skiing on the way down,
trying to float and avoid breaking through to ground or stump or rock.

Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Saturday, December 15, 2007

[MCR] Sniveling Gully

Not a single sole in the Weeping Wall area yesterday. Sniveling Gully's
first pitch is now a bit thicker from Jorg's last report, however there
is a layer of snice (snow/ice) coating it. No problem for ice screws
after a bit of digging. All of the following pitches are in great
shape.

The bolted rappels on the climbers left has ice under it the whole way,
which made pulling the ropes much easier. I don't seem to recall it
being there on previous years?

Perfect temps, -7 in the shade, balmy in the sun!

Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Thursday, December 13, 2007

[MCR] Amadeus

I climbed Amadeus (most of it anyway, read on) today with two friends.
The route is in good shape overall. The ice was a bit detached to
finish the first pitch, but manageable with careful swinging.

We had a minor incident on the second pitch that deserved a quick
retreat. As a result there are three screws w/draws firmly attached to
the pillar. There is also a tool left in place at the top bulge. If
anybody is on that route in the near future, can I ask that our gear
get returned?

Thanks very much.

--
Matt Mueller
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
403-688-4341
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

[MCR] Weeping Wall

At the Weeping Wall yesterday: Left side is in pretty good shape, center lines are very drippy and chandeliered. Right side is climbable but appears still a bit thin in the second pitch. Snivelling Gully is looking pretty good with the first pitch a bit thin with lots of water running underneath. The Weeping Pillar (as well as other lines in the upper section of the Weeping Wall) is in but looks hard!
 
Off note is that the Icefield Parkway is indeed very icy for the entire drive from the Lake Louise turn-off.
 
Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
 
Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA / UIAGM)
1-800 506-7177 or (001) 403 678 2717
 

[MCR] The Sorcerer/Ghost Driving

Climbed the Sorcerer today. There is a good trail beat out down the cutblock and through the forest leading to the drainage. Good ice quality, a bit funky on pitch 3, but hero ice on the final pitch. High winds today created a spindrift firehose at times and is helping to develop a cornice on climber's left overhanging the route. This wind has also created some large, truck eating snowdrifts, but if you choose your driving route carefully it is not a problem. Watch for logging trucks, we encountered two before 7:30am.

Jason Billing
ACMG Assistant Rock Guide





Tuesday, December 11, 2007

[MCR] Louise Falls

Up Louise Falls this morning.  Route is in good shape with the first pitch offering nice plastic ice.  The left hand pillar has about 2 to 3 body lengths of steep ice with good stemming and then it kicks back.  The crux of the route is in the last 10 feet before the top out providing brittle, dinner plating ice.  The right hand pillar is not ready yet.  There is a good trail in for the walk off.
 
It would be a good idea to be aware what is above your head while on the first pitch.  There are several looming daggers above that would be a definite day spoiler if they came off while you were climbing.  There are a few v threads that are currently in the direct line of fire.
 
Have fun out there...
 
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide

Saturday, December 8, 2007

[MCR] Roger's Pass

Went up to Balu Pass Friday, Dec. 07. 10cms light snow on the firm crust from the big rain event, bit more above 1900M. The snowpack was firm and supportive up in the alpine with about 20-25cm ski pen. and good quality turns above 2000M. Temps: -20 in the shade, -9 in the sun.
Rutchblock score 6 at 2100M right below Balu pass. East aspect, HS (height of snowpack) 230. Failed with an unclean, broken shear down 90cms on the Nov. 24 surface hoar layer. This layer was not real developed at this elevation.
Skied moderate terrain near the pass. Saw about 4 groups hammer the 8812 bowl, they walked right up it to Bruins Pass. About 20 tracks in it by 3 pm. Snowpack felt well settled with no whumphing or cracking in the alpine.
Enjoy, be safe.  Russ Lybarger, Ski Guide.

Friday, December 7, 2007

[MCR] Paul's Rige, Garibaldi

Took a quick jog up to Paul's Ridge this morning. The drive up is a little icy but easy enough with a two wheel drive. There is snow from the parking lot, ice rather. The trail to Red Heather is in good shape and gets softer as you get up there. There is 10cm of light snow on the crust at the cabin altitude, and almost 25cm above the crust at ridge top.
 
Everything steep slid during the monsoons and some of the exits at the bottom of the chutes are quite bumpy. High up the new snow didn't bond really well to the crust. Had we continued out to the Gargoyles or beyond we would have been very cautious on any large and steeper slopes.
 
Ski Quality is "Not Bad", but you can still feel the water runnels left in the crust.
 
Conny Amelunxen
ACMG MG


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Thursday, December 6, 2007

[MCR] Pemberton and Duffy Lake areas

I spent the day working for Coast Range Heliskiing in the mountains around Lillooet Lk. We went to the Saxifrage area as well as to the peaks east of Mt. Curry.

The skiing in the alpine was really good particularly in the Curry area. At around 1800m or the upper end of Tree Line the ice crust left after Mondays rains could sometimes be felt under ski. Further down at 1500m we were pretty much on a solid 20cm ice crust with a dusting of new snow.

The snow pack is a very variable early season layer cake that was really effected by the this weeks monsoons. We did not see any recent avalanche activity, but there was plenty of older slab and debris.
At the end of the day we called the Alpine stability Fair/ or in terms of hazard Considerable (but we didn't really see much becouse of clouds). The Tree Line as Good/ or Moderate. The Below tree line as Very Good/ or Low.

There is plenty of good quality skiing out there you just need to get high enough -out of the valley.

Dave Sarkany

Ski Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] another skier triggered avalanche in the monashees

Another skier triggered; 07/12/05 Monashees Mountains, near Mica

1 x size 2 Sa, Slab, Dry, incl.29degr. N aspect, 1730m, 80cm thick, 15m
wide, 110m long, beds - FC, layer - SH Jan 24th.

"Group of 5 guides where doing tobogganing practice in steep treed
terrain. We had just done 3 lowers and had packed up the rope. Two
people skied away with the toboggan and out of site. The others and
myself where getting our skis on and I skied away first, traversed to
the left about 10m to go around a group of small trees, at this point
the slope released. The slab took my skis out from under me and I yelled
avalanche. I was able to pivot my feet under me and stand up and semi
ski or ride the avalanche to the deposit. 1 caught, partially buried,
non critical. The avalanche was 15m wide, 80cm thick, and 110m long and
ran on the Nov.24 SH. The glade had 2 gullies that run into the top of
it and they had both previously run during the storm. The pocket between
them had not previously failed."

---Original Message-----
From: mcr-bounces@informalex.org [mailto:mcr-bounces@informalex.org] On
Behalf Of Public Mountain Conditions Report
Sent: December 6, 2007 12:03 AM
To: mcr@informalex.org
Subject: [MCR] skier triggered avalanches in the monashees


In one part of the Monashees,(North of the Trans Canada highway, west of
the
Perry River and East of the Anstey Arm.)the last few days warm storms
have left
50- 70 cms snow at treeline above the November 24th snow surface. This
surface
is a crust on southerly aspects and a variety of cold snow grains on
shaded
slopes. They are all potentially reactive to skiers. It is impossible at
this
point to say when the potential for skier triggering will decrease, but
it will
certainly be my main concern for the next few days at least. This layer
is deep
enough and widespread enough that it can produce LARGE avalanches.

As an example, today I ski cut, on purpose, a small slope at 2100m that
produced
an avalanche 50cms deep by 10m wide. The failure propogated for 300m
from a SE
to a NE aspect and produced a class 3 avalanche. We also had numerous
natural
avalanches up to size 2.5 in the past two days. The skiing was good
today but we
will be skiing simple moderate angle terrain far away from big alpine
faces
until we feel confident conditions have improved.

Emjoy the potential good weather this weekend but be nervous, very very
nervous.

Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased
safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in
planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

[MCR] skier triggered avalanches in the monashees

In one part of the Monashees,(North of the Trans Canada highway, west of the
Perry River and East of the Anstey Arm.)the last few days warm storms have left
50- 70 cms snow at treeline above the November 24th snow surface. This surface
is a crust on southerly aspects and a variety of cold snow grains on shaded
slopes. They are all potentially reactive to skiers. It is impossible at this
point to say when the potential for skier triggering will decrease, but it will
certainly be my main concern for the next few days at least. This layer is deep
enough and widespread enough that it can produce LARGE avalanches.

As an example, today I ski cut, on purpose, a small slope at 2100m that produced
an avalanche 50cms deep by 10m wide. The failure propogated for 300m from a SE
to a NE aspect and produced a class 3 avalanche. We also had numerous natural
avalanches up to size 2.5 in the past two days. The skiing was good today but we
will be skiing simple moderate angle terrain far away from big alpine faces
until we feel confident conditions have improved.

Emjoy the potential good weather this weekend but be nervous, very very nervous.

Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Howsons 5 December 07

A short trip to the Solitaire Meadows today showed 100 cm at the lodge
and 180 cm at 1500 m. There was almost constant whumpfing and cracking,
some over longer distances, as long as we were below timberline in
sheltered areas. I suspect that there is surface hoar buried under the
last 30 cm of snowfall. We saw several size 1.5 to 2.5 soft slabs in a
variety of aspects and elevations. They seemed to be 24 to 36 hours old
and about 30 cm deep. Ski cutting steep E and S slopes did not produce
any avalanches, however. We dug a pit at 1500 m and found a faceted
layer 30 cm down that produced shears. We saw no surface hoar in that
pit, which was just above timberline. There was a crust 120 cm down and
the temperature gradient was rather strong. The snowpack structure is
much less stable than it was at this time last year. At -11 degrees and
deep soft snow, the skiing was good but slow.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Monday, December 3, 2007

[MCR] Valemount area

Just back from an AST course in Valemount, 2nd day on Mica Mountain
where the snowcat skiing takes place.
Valley bottom pretty bare,2500 ft) 10cm. At about 4200 ft we found 65
cm and a quick test showed only hard compressions at the ground.
there are variable melt/rain crust around this elevation but they
disappear higher up on the ridge crest.
At treeline we found about 75-90 cm. Our tests showed only a surface
instability down about 10cm (compression test easy 2-4)and a hard
compression at the ground. (both N and S aspects )

The surface instability though not significant at the time is now
buried with the storm cycle we are all witnessing today.
this could become quite reactive depending on what happens, and
should be watched for!

Our limited observations should be noted. the area is just north of
Valemount, near Tete Jaune, on the edge of the Premiers.
Many areas are reporting buried surface hoar which though we didn't
see, are definitely out there.
Driving home last night to Jasper it was very windy! about 15cm in
Jasper this morning......

Just the intensity of this storm should make us all cautious for a
while to come.

Peter Amann

Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0
780 852 3237
cell 780 931 2521
www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann@incentre.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Saturday, December 1, 2007

[MCR] Ice climbing conditions in the Whistler area

Went out searching for a quick climb today. Found lots
of ice forming but the only thing we could find that
was formed enough to climb was the "Plum" and
"Politically correct Valentine". We only climbed the
first pitch of the Plumb, but there was a party on the
second pitch and the whole climb looked fully
climbable. Its is probably a bit stiff for the grade
on all the pitches, but the ice was surprisingly
thicker than it appeared from the road and took full
length screws.
We drove around quite a bit after and not much else
looked "IN" between whistler and there".
Have fun. Craig McGee, MG

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 935 0077


____________________________________________________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Coast Range - Cerise, Joffre Lakes, Slalok, Nov 30

 
Yesterday we went up Cerise, Aniversary Glacier, climbed Slalok, down the N Face and out the Joffre Lakes trail.
 
Cerise Creek has little snow. The bridges over the creeks near the highway are well covered and easy to cross. We crossed to the west side of the Cerise creek and joined the summer trail around the creek coming down from the north face of Joffre. Seems to be much better travel on that side early season.
 
The Anniversary glacier was well covered with snow but above the 7000 foot mark it was very wind effected. There was a small (SZ 2) natural avalanche that had come down the regular route on Joffre within the past 12 hours. It was a dense surface layer that slid and it crossed the on ramp access from the "Motel 66" camp half way up the glacier on the north side.
 
The Matier Glacer was wind hammered and we didn't hang around long with 30k winds and -17 deg.
 
We ski cut a size 2 slide in the gully on the lower half of the North Face of Slalok: 10-30cm deep, pencil hard layer. We skied the avalanche debris which spoke to us with multiple whumpfs. The slide started at 2100m and the snow settled every now and then until we were at 1700m The face needs a little more snow to cover the ice tongue in the middle. In general the skiing was not good.
 
The descent/ascent lines  from Upper Joffre Lake onto the Matier Glacier on the north and south end of the Icefall are not in shape yet. In an emergency one could get down the standard north side gully to the obvious moraine but I would not recommend it. The Tzil Glacier looked like a good ski.
 
We skied nervously across the Upper and Middle Joffre lakes staying spaced out and away from the creeks coming in and out of the lakes. There was less than a half meter of snow at the Upper lake. Just below the middle lake we had to take our skis off and walk to the highway. We didn't cross the lower lake because of thin ice.
 
SUMMARY: The skiing was better at or below treeline in Cerise Creek, than in the Joffre Lake drainage. In the Alpine watch out for a thin hard surface slab on all aspects that is reactive to skiers . Joffre Lakes trail is not in shape for skiing.
 
 
Conny Amelunxen
MG


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Friday, November 30, 2007

[MCR] Monashee Mountains

Here is some info from the Monashee Mountains @ 30 min. west of Revelstoke and 30 km. North of the Trans Canada highway from Nov.30/07.
 
I spent the day with several other guides poking around this part of the Monashees as we prepared to teach an ACMG Guide Training course and thought this may be useful information for people skiing close to this area (such as Gorge Ck. etc.)
 
Profiles showed a range of snowpack depth between 200cm. at 1900m. and 100cm. once you got down to 1400m.
 
We found surface hoar crystals and large new snow crystals on the surface and the November 24th interface was down @ 35-40cm. and we saw everything from large preserved new snow crystals (5-6mm) - some surface hoar (5mm.) and a suncrust at this interface. Deeper down we found a crust that had a weak layer below it @ 40cm. from the ground
 
The Novemeber 24th layer reacted to shovel compression tests in the easy to moderate range - but due to the lack of cohesion in the snow it did not react to ski cutting other than some cracking here and there. The deeper crust produced hard results below the crust. Even though it didn't react to ski cutting we had little confidence in it and skiied quite conservatively (remember we are a bunch of old guides and want to keep it that way).
 
Temps were cold (-20 Celsius) under clear skies with no real wind.
 
No recent avalanche activity other than loose snow sluffs out of steeper terrain - some old slabs @ 30-40cm. thick are visible, they look as though they occured during the last storm event.
 
All that is about to change if the forecast weather even comes close to what they are calling for in terms of snowfall and warming temperatures - so keep alert as the next storm hits as we are likely to see a fairly extensive avalanche cycle associated with it.
 
Scott Davis
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Guinness gulley

Went to climb Bourgeau right -   From the parking lot the first pitch appeared not to be touching.  Bourgeau Left looked fat.  Instead we  decided to climb
 Guinness in field , the cold temps and extremely hard ice drove as off.  The first pitch was thin ( 10 cm screws for the first 15 meters) and I  a hard time placing screws.  They weren’t biting.   Quite a shock to the system considering that I was in Mexico  4 days ago.

Regards,

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide



[MCR] UrsHole

We climbed Urs' Hole on Cascade Mountain (Banff) yesterday.

Generally a bit on the thin side, especially at the top outs of the steps, with a few of the short pillars being thin ice straws with water flowing beneath. Probably a bit more difficult than the guidebook grade. We saw the upper portion of the direct finish and it looked in but we didn't see the lower part of that pitch.

There also were several pools with thin ice on the walking sections and between the two of us we had 3 bootfuls of water by the end of the day.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide


[MCR] Rogan's Gulley and Cascade

Climbed Rogan's Gulley today with Carl Johnston. The route is in good shape with a good amount of ice on the small steps in the middle. There was a few parties on Cascade today that reported wet conditions on the lower pitches. The upper section of the route looked to be in reasonable condition. There is no snow on the ledges so keep this in mind when thinking of the distance and speed ice will travel from parties above. The sunny aspect was appreciated today and most likely will be tomorrow as well.
 
Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

Thursday, November 29, 2007

[MCR] Spray River Falls

Climbed it yesterday with Cory Richards. Water running on the whole
climb and it is getting bigger. Water can be avoided in most places,
but we made a couple of steps through the drips. Crux pillar is
challenging, more so than latter when its bigger and picked out.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

[MCR] Mixed Master

Climbed on Mixed Master today with Jesse de Montigny and Mike
Trehearn. The first pitch was thin (especially the first step) and a
bit detached requiring a delicate technique. Good hooks could be
found and good screws required some searching, short screws and load
limiting runners were an asset. The ice improved after the first ten
meters and the 5.8 rock traverse was dry providing good climbing on
solid holds. The M4 pitch above this was mostly powder snow over
rock. We did not climb the last two pitches as pitch 6 was not the
'easy snow slope' described in the book, but a thin vein of hollow,
detached ice on rock slab with no chance for protection. Unfortunate,
as the final pitched looked to be in classic shape. Of note, pitch
lengths are a bit off in the book - pitch 1 is upwards of 55m (not
50m) and pitch 4 is also 55m (not 40m). We felt the rappel station in
the gully (the 4th rappel from the top) could be improved as it is
currently an old 1/4 inch bolt and an old, very rusty knifeblade.

Jason Billing
ARG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

[MCR] Red Man Soars

Climbed Red Man Soars today with Tom Gruber. The route is in good shape, we used gear to a number 1 Camelot including a few pins. Whiteman's looked like it had been climbed in the last couple of days, however the first pitch looks to be quite hard compared to other years I have seen it.
 
Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

[MCR] Weeping Wall Right Side

Climbed about 100m of the Right Weeping Wall yesterday. Retreated
from a piton and nut anchor right side and bottom of the steepest
curtain. Lots of water flowing with the climbing line dripping. Good
climbing up to that point.

Overall the lower wall has about half of its usual ice volume. The
upper wall looks well formed with numerous routes possible.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Monday, November 26, 2007

[MCR] Pointless Gulley

Climbed Pointless gulley on November 25th. It is in good shape (although a bit brittle) and takes good ice screws. There is no ice at the top of the first pitch for an anchor so bring a few pins. The approach is a bit of a slog through unconsolidated snow...skis not recommended after you leave the approach trail to the Bow Hut.
 
Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

[MCR] Professors/Rogan's Gulley/Cacade

We walked in to Professors this morning. The first pitch was quite wet on
the left side. We tried to get up the right side of the column, but it was
very chandeliered, placements were very weak and protection almost
impossible to get.

We walked around to the second pitch to find better ice quality but
streaming with water over the entire pitch. We bailed out at that point and
drove over to Rogan's gully.

The first pitch is dry and thin, but very climbable. It appeared to have
been climbed several times ahead of us. 10cm stubies and load limiting
runners are required to protect the pitch. Everything above the first pitch
was in good shape with very dry ice. Two climbers came down from the final
pitch and said it was not in great shape.

Cascade was climbed by at least 2 parties today. From our observation below
the climb it was grey in colour at the crux pitch and was far from fat,
blue and thick. I would 'suspect' that it would be detached in places. The
climb will need another couple of weeks to reach it's normal mid winter
condition.

Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Sunday, November 25, 2007

[MCR] Rogers Pass - Connaught, Asulkan

Spent the weekend in Rogers Pass skiing in the Connaught valley on Saturday and Asulkan drainage on Sunday.

Percent of drainage observed/visibility: Saturday: 30%, 500-1500m in snow and fog; Sunday 85%, 2-3 km in mist and flat light. 

Avalanches: None observed except for sluffing in steep terrain.

Weather: On Saturday it snowed hard all day with moderate west winds that were transporting snow, max of -8. On Sunday there had been 15 cm of low density snow in the previous 24 hours and it was calm in the Asulkan valley, although reports indicated continued moderate westerlies in Connaught. Continued cool temps.

Snowpack: Generally about 40 cm of unconsolidated snow on the surface overlying a hard base. Some weaker "facetty" decomposed crystals about 35 cm down, above the harder snow. In Connaught there was an instability noted in this weak layer (compression test moderate, 11 hits, sudden planar). This instability was not found in the Asulkan. Some localised soft wind slabs were noted on the surface in Connaught but not in the Asulkan.

Terrain considerations/use: We skied runs at a treeline elevation both days, avoiding upper elevations due to poor visibility and the concern of wind slabs. In Connaught we avoided convexities on the crossloaded ridges that are a hallmark of that valley. The more protected basins were untouched by the wind. Asulkan had far less wind effect and we skied a steep moraine line. Excellent skiing both days.

Danger ratings for Sunday afternoon: Alpine was not observed but suspect Moderate. Treeline Moderate. Below Treeline Low.

Rogers Pass is approximately 800 km southeast of Kitwanga.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
www.alpinism.com
403-760-3337


Saturday, November 24, 2007

[MCR] spearhead traverse

Out yesterday on the Spearhead traverse. Excellent
early season ski conditions.
On average there was around 125 to 175 cms on the
glaciers. Only the top 15 cms were soft with a firm
snowpack below, this made for excellent travel. On the
whole traverse we only saw ski tracks on the closest
mountains to the resorts! After a week of clear
weather!

Conditions on the glaciers are looking great this
year, there are very few expose crevasses on most of
the glaciers. Of exception is a large Bergshrund
(crevasses) that spans almost the whole north face of
Tremor Mountain, all the way to the col. While probing
over the hole we found that there was 120cms of dens
snow. I'm still not sure if the good looking
conditions on the glacier are due to the large
previous years snowpack and cool summer or if the
crevasses are still there and are only lightly covered
due to the high winds, moderate temps and recent
snowfall. Because of this I think it would still be
prudent to be careful on glaciers that you did not get
a good look at this summer. Remember to practice good
glacier travel techniques, such as probing to find out
the depth of snowpack in your area and to carry a rope
in areas you not sure of.
Also of note was the growth of the Surface Hoar below
treeline, in many places its over 15mm now. This will
be a layer to watch for after it snows.
Have fun...and get out there the skiing is great!
Craig McGee, MG


Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 935 0077


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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] spearhead traverse

Out yesterday on the Spearhead traverse. Excellent
early season ski conditions.
On average there was around 125 to 175 cms on the
glaciers. Only the top 15 cms were soft with a firm
snowpack below, this made for excellent travel. On the
whole traverse we only saw ski tracks on the closest
mountains to the resorts! After a week of clear
weather!

Conditions on the glaciers are looking great this
year, there are very few expose crevasses on most of
the glaciers. Of exception is a large Bergshrund
(crevasses) that spans almost the whole north face of
Tremor Mountain, all the way to the col. While probing
over the hole we found that there was 120cms of dens
snow. I'm still not sure if the good looking
conditions on the glacier are due to the large
previous years snowpack and cool summer or if the
crevasses are still there and are only lightly covered
due to the high winds, moderate temps and recent
snowfall. Because of this I think it would still be
prudent to be careful on glaciers that you did not get
a good look at this summer. Remember to practice good
glacier travel techniques, such as probing to find out
the depth of snowpack in your area and to carry a rope
in areas you not sure of.
Also of note was the growth of the Surface Hoar below
treeline, in many places its over 15mm now. This will
be a layer to watch for after it snows.
Have fun...and get out there the skiing is great!
Craig McGee, MG


Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 935 0077


____________________________________________________________________________________
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] spearhead traverse

Out yesterday on the Spearhead traverse. Excellent
early season ski conditions.
On average there was around 125 to 175 cms on the
glaciers. Only the top 15 cms were soft with a firm
snowpack below, this made for excellent travel. On the
whole traverse we only saw ski tracks on the closest
mountains to the resorts! After a week of clear
weather!

Conditions on the glaciers are looking great this
year, there are very few expose crevasses on most of
the glaciers. Of exception is a large Bergshrund
(crevasses) that spans almost the whole north face of
Tremor Mountain, all the way to the col. While probing
over the hole we found that there was 120cms of dens
snow. I'm still not sure if the good looking
conditions on the glacier are due to the large
previous years snowpack and cool summer or if the
crevasses are still there and are only lightly covered
due to the high winds, moderate temps and recent
snowfall. Because of this I think it would still be
prudent to be careful on glaciers that you did not get
a good look at this summer. Remember to practice good
glacier travel techniques, such as probing to find out
the depth of snowpack in your area and to carry a rope
in areas you not sure of.
Also of note was the growth of the Surface Hoar below
treeline, in many places its over 15mm now. This will
be a layer to watch for after it snows.
Have fun...and get out there the skiing is great!
Craig McGee, MG

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 935 0077


____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Polar Circus

Up on Polar Circus on Thursday and found the lower part of the route to be thin in spots (top outs on the steps) but overall pretty good for end of November.  The Pencil is in, albeit barely.  I could put my arms around it at the bottom (didn't climb it).  The snow slope was blown free in some spots and had up to 45cms in others.  Awkward walking over the frozen scree/rock that is usually snow covered.  The pitch after the slope was very wet and hard to get good gear (ice lenses).  The Ribbon pitch was plastic.  
 
We turned around at the base of the last pitch after 2 fairly good sized rocks fell out of a roof above the pitch on the right hand side.  The sun was quite warm and there weren't any clouds all day. 
 
Cheers
 
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide
 
 
                   

[MCR] Rundle ice

Climbed Proffessor's yesterday. Climbable but definetly not the midseason fat grade 3 pegboard. On friday pitch 1, 2 and 4 were straws with chandeliers hanging off them. It will get easier with some traffic but there was some steep insecure pulling with bad feet, bad tools and awkward gear. Sporty!
 
Christmas Present looked fairly fat and Shampoo Planet and Ten Years After were all in but thin. Sea of Vapours looked climbable but the traverse from Postscriptum was dry. Cascade needs a bunch more cold days.  
 
On Tuesday Parallel Falls was good on the left to a cracking pillar and the right hand had snowed-up rock slabs on pitch 2.. Still very thin. Terrible travelling in that area of K-Country. Not enough snow for skiis but enough weak snow to make for poor walking.
 
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Bourgeau Left/Field Climbs

Nov 22 - Climbed Bourgeau Left and experienced surprisingly good
conditions. Though the last few nights had dipped close to -20, the
ice was damp and plastic the whole way up. First pitch is a bit thin
at the bottom, but did not sound dangerously hollow and took 13cm
screws. The final pitch was steep, but featured with some good rests.
The flow is not very wide right now, this made it impossible to get
to the fixed rock station out right before the final 40m, don't plan
on belaying there until if fills out. Of note, the sun was warm and
screws melting out was a concern. The difference between a screw
placed in a shady corner and one placed in the sun was like night and
day. Bring long screws and look for the shaded grooves. There was
around 15cm of low density snow on the approach and immediately above
the route.

Nov 21 - Drove to Field to have a look at the climbs there. Twisted
is in as a pure ice line, Super Bok is in (though it's hard to see
the 'rock arch' pitch), Homebrew is also in. Pilsner is touching on
the right via a thin pillar, but the mixed routes would be in good
shape, Carlsberg is formed but looks like it needs to fatten up just
a little to be inviting. Guinness Gully is all there, but while
climbing the first (thin) pitch the ice was very brittle, fracturing
off in large plates so I came down after a few meters. Best to let it
fatten up, or for it to warm up a bit as not to destroy the pitch for
future parties. Around 10cm of low density snow below Guinness Gully.

Cheers,
Jason Billing
ARG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Thursday, November 22, 2007

[MCR] Ghost ice

On Wed. we climbed the Hooker and the Candle Stick Maker.  The roads were pleasantly snow free, not even drifts in the valley bottom.  We were even able to drive several hundreds metres up the hill on the west side before the road got too icy.  At least 1 or 2 other parties had been in before judging by the footprints and the ice.

Ice on these 2 routes was cold and hard, making for difficult screw placements.  The first pitch on CSM was mostly vertical with a small overlap to overcome.  Perhaps WI5+. The 2nd pitch was brittle enough to warrant a good sheltered belay which we found by way of a small ice cave up a few metres on the right.

Hidden Dragon was well formed with some wetter looking ice, and the Joker was fat.

The Big Drip was in full form.

Cheers,
Shaun King
Alpine Guide

[MCR] Blackcomb backcountry.

Out for a tour yesterday (Nov 21st) off the back of
Blackcomb.
Excellent ski conditions with little wind effect and
great coverage above 6500ft. I have never seen
Spearman Glacier with such good coverage at this time
of year. Almost all of the Crevasses are covered and
there are no large gaping Bershrunds at the bottom of
"Don't swill".
The rest of the surrounding peaks and glaciers look to
be in fine early shape as well.
Below 6500ft the coverage is quite a bit less than
normal and great care should be taken so that you
don't spent the the rest of the month in the hospital
getting stitched up. Also of note below 7000ft and
especially below 6000ft there is a-lot of Surface hoar
that is building (up to 1cm!) This will be a layer to
remember when the new snow starts to come this
weekend.

Have Fun. Craig McGee, MG


Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 935 0077


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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Blackcomb backcountry.

Out for a tour yesterday (Nov 21st) off the back of
Blackcomb.
Excellent ski conditions with little wind effect and
great coverage above 6500ft. I have never seen
Spearman Glacier with such good coverage at this time
of year. Almost all of the Crevasses are covered and
there are no large gaping Bershrunds at the bottom of
"Don't swill".
The rest of the surrounding peaks and glaciers look to
be in fine early shape as well.
Below 6500ft the coverage is quite a bit less than
normal and great care should be taken so that you
don't spent the the rest of the month in the hospital
getting stitched up. Also of note below 7000ft and
especially below 6000ft there is a-lot of Surface hoar
that is building (up to 1cm!) This will be a layer to
remember when the new snow starts to come this
weekend.

Have Fun. Craig McGee, MG

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 935 0077


____________________________________________________________________________________
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites.
Make Yahoo! your homepage.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Blackcomb backcountry.

Out for a tour yesterday (Nov 21st) off the back of
Blackcomb.
Excellent ski conditions with little wind effect and
great coverage above 6500ft. I have never seen
Spearman Glacier with such good coverage at this time
of year. Almost all of the Crevasses are covered and
there are no large gaping Bershrunds at the bottom of
"Don't swill".
The rest of the surrounding peaks and glaciers look to
be in fine early shape as well.
Below 6500ft the coverage is quite a bit less than
normal and great care should be taken so that you
don't spent the the rest of the month in the hospital
getting stitched up. Also of note below 7000ft and
especially below 6000ft there is a-lot of Surface hoar
that is building (up to 1cm!) This will be a layer to
remember when the new snow starts to come this
weekend.

Have Fun. Craig McGee, MG

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

[MCR] Cayoosh, Duffey Lake road

We had a romp up towards Cayoosh mountain yesterday. At the parking lot there was roughly 40cm of snow and at ridge top somewhere around 80cm. The upper road was a little more free of alder but neither was too bad. ROCK SKIS are a must.
 
We noticed a lot of wind effect (previous to the last snowfall) and were quite thankful of it. Although the there was boot top penetration the only good skiing we found was in cross loaded features where there was up to a meter of snow.  Anywhere else it was impossible to avoid rock or shrubbery.
 
A thin rain crust at the parking lot disappeared before we reached the cabin. A compression test at tree line on a northerly cross loaded slope unevenly sheared with moderate results. The top 15cm of southerly slopes got a little soft with the afternoon sun. In the cut blocks there was 2cm surface hoar but it had only grown to about 4mm at tree line.
 
At tree line we skied it like it was GOOD stability and below treeline it appeared GOOD as well but we didn't come across any slope that had reached the threshold snow-cover to produce an avalanche. We didn't get into the alpine.
 
Conny Amelunxen
MG
 


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[MCR] Marble Canyon, Kootney Ntl Park

On Nov 19 we ran a couple of quick laps on the pillar that forms in Marble Canyon. It was climbable but would be a very committing lead, and not just because of the anorexic ice. The creek has not frozen over yet and while we were there an ice dam broke up the way sending a surge that raised the water level by at least two feet. Had we been belaying from the bottom the belayer would have been washed out to sea.
 
Several of the mixed climbs in there look ready to go, and in fact some are quite plump. I would recommend waiting a while however until the creek does freeze over.

Conny Amelunxen
Mountain Guide



> Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 16:08:09 -0800
> To: mcr@informalex.org
> From: mcr@informalex.org
> Subject: [MCR] wapta Nov 14-18th
>
>
> Up ski touring on the Wapta with a group last week.
>
> Skied from the road all the way to Bow hut with not too much problem in the
> canyon.
>
> The entire bowl with the seracs above the final slope to bow hut had avalanched
> as a very healthy size 3 some days prior. This slide was roughly 500m wide and
> ran at least 500m, well past where skiers cross the valley. The debris would
> have easily buried a large group. Numerous other slabs observed that day and
> the next, mostly on lee slopes.
>
> Skied only on the icefield itself between Bow and Peyto huts and ascended no
> peaks due to poor visibility, highly variable snowpack depth, and moderate to
> high south west winds most of the week.
>
> Snowpack on the icefield ranged from 2m to 30cms with bare ice. Average
> snowpack at 8-9,000ft is around 150 cms. Rounding the corner up to St. Nicholas
> on the north side was patchy bare ice with very large crevasses. That in
> conjunction with poor weather made turning around a good idea.
>
> Great skiing on the slopes above Bow Hut with 10cms of low density snow.
>
> It will be tempting with good weather ahead to venture into the alpine but the
> potential is very real, especially near ridge top, lee aspects for skier
> triggered slabs from all the wind last week. Keep in mind the variable snowpack
> depths this early in the season, it all looks the same on the surface.
>
> Cheers
> Steve Holeczi
> Alpine Guide, Assistant Ski Guide
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
> Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.



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Monday, November 19, 2007

[MCR] wapta Nov 14-18th

Up ski touring on the Wapta with a group last week.

Skied from the road all the way to Bow hut with not too much problem in the
canyon.

The entire bowl with the seracs above the final slope to bow hut had avalanched
as a very healthy size 3 some days prior. This slide was roughly 500m wide and
ran at least 500m, well past where skiers cross the valley. The debris would
have easily buried a large group. Numerous other slabs observed that day and
the next, mostly on lee slopes.

Skied only on the icefield itself between Bow and Peyto huts and ascended no
peaks due to poor visibility, highly variable snowpack depth, and moderate to
high south west winds most of the week.

Snowpack on the icefield ranged from 2m to 30cms with bare ice. Average
snowpack at 8-9,000ft is around 150 cms. Rounding the corner up to St. Nicholas
on the north side was patchy bare ice with very large crevasses. That in
conjunction with poor weather made turning around a good idea.

Great skiing on the slopes above Bow Hut with 10cms of low density snow.

It will be tempting with good weather ahead to venture into the alpine but the
potential is very real, especially near ridge top, lee aspects for skier
triggered slabs from all the wind last week. Keep in mind the variable snowpack
depths this early in the season, it all looks the same on the surface.

Cheers
Steve Holeczi
Alpine Guide, Assistant Ski Guide


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Friday, November 16, 2007

[MCR] Stanley Headwall (Nov 15)

Climbed at the Thriller Cave at the end of Stanley Headwall yesterday
(on Nov 15). About 10cm of new snow overnight in the parking lot.
Walking is still definitely the travel mode of choice. There is about
20-30cm of snow on the trail and scree making for awkward stumbling
but not enough to ski. Temperatures were mild (just below 0 C) making
for nice soft ice. In general, it is good early season ice conditions
for Stanley. The following is a quick summation of how various routes
looked from right to left:

French Reality: Completely formed but couldn't tell if the first pitch
is thin ice or just snow on slabs.
Dawn of the Dead: This rarely formed route is in.
Nightmare of Wolfe St: Looks to be in excellent shape.
Monsieur Hulot: Can't see any ice on the lower mixed pitches
Acid Howl: Not there.
Uniform Queen: Looks thin.
Suffer Machine: Fat, might even touch down...
Fiasco: Formed but thin.
General Malaise: Formed but thin.
Nemesis: Formed and has been climbed.
Sinus Gully: Fat.
Thriller: Fat, plus lots of good ice on the other Killer Cave mixed
routes.

Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

[MCR] K-Country - Amadeus

We climbed Amadeus this morning via the right hand rock traverse.  The rock is is generally free of snow and ice and we used cams and nuts up to yellow (#2) Camalot to protect it.  The pin that protects the “belly flop” move is not really pretty but you can place a bunch of stuff right before it.  The ice is in solid but slightly airy condition, good screws are possible but sometimes require a little extra cleaning to find consistent ice.

Marc Piché
Mountain Guide

Saturday, November 10, 2007

[MCR] Murchison Falls and K-Country

For those itching to get out,

Nov 7 - Murchison Falls was in good shape, see Jesse's post. Cosmic Messenger and other routes in that drainage looked healthy. 

Nov 8 - Hiked into Parallel Falls in K-country. Both routes were all there, though young ice, with much water flowing underneath. The sun was out in full force, warming the detached ice and the (big) terrain above these routes, so we turned tail and ran away. A cold snap and a cloudy day would be essential to look at these routes again. Already, pockets of knee deep, moist snow have gathered on the slope below. For those interested, a much shorter approach is to park at Burstall Pass parking lot. A few minutes from the car where the hiking trail turns left up a small hill, go straight and follow snowshoe trails (some signs) to the drainage leading up left to the climbs. Just over an hour of walking as compared to the 2.5hrs as described in the book. 

R&D looked like it is missing the first 10m of ice, bring rock gear, stubbies and a humble attitude. Chalice and the Blade has fallen down, but Thin Universe looks to be in classic shape.

Have patience, and don't be afraid to say no and return another day.

Jason Billing
ARG

[MCR] Shades of Beauty/Polar Circus

Hello
 
Climbed the bottom pitches of Polar Circus on Wednesday with Geoff Ruttan.  We bailed just before the pencil as the ice was melting quickly from the high temperatures (+6).  The lower steps were gone when we walked down around 11AM.  Moved over to Shades of Beauty which was in pretty good shape (best thing I've seen this year so far..).  Solid screws on every pitch.  Rick Blak Memorial route looks to be in good shape as well. 
 
Seems like a very slow start for the "regulars".... have faith....
 
Cheers
 
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide 

Friday, November 9, 2007

[MCR] Ice Conditions

A few more observations to add to the sparse amount coming in.
 
Nov 6th - Climbed the Christmas present. Not much new info to give from the previous posts. There was however a fair amount of water still running so it may fatten up with the right conditions.
 
Nov 7th - Had a look at Haffner Creek. The ice is starting to show up but if it starts to get climbed there might not be much left later on. I would give it a miss for now.
 
Nov 9th - Climbed all but the last pitch of Murchison's. It is in pretty good shape when you look at what the Bow Valley looks like....good screws and you are unlikely to hit any rock. There is a fair amount of flowing water coming from the last pitch, which with a windy day like we had today can soak you quickly! Not much snow anywhere in this bowl to worry about.
 
The first few pitches of Virtual Reality look good but the huge hanging dagger is scary looking.
 
As a side note the skiing at Bow Summit looks bleak to none existent with around 30cm of snow on the ground.
 
Have a good and safe weekend!
 
Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for Nov. 8th, 2007.

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 8th, 2007
 
It has been another warm, windy and mostly dry week in the Rockies. We have had very little information coming in from guides in the field. This could have something to do with the generally terrible skiing and climbing conditions. As a gross generalization ice climbing conditions have deteriorated in the past week. The avalanche hazard has increased, the temperatures have melted a lot of ice and there is snow on the rock at mid elevations and above. You can probably take a wild guess as to what all that wind and warm temperatures have done to the skiing. The temperatures are forecasted to drop a little over the weekend so there is still ice in the future.
 
Conditions are slowly improving in the Columbias but it is still the same early season problems. It is probably precipitating in the Columbias as you read this. For more detailed information, go to the Glacier National Park avalanche bulletin.
 
Banff and Glacier National Parks are now producing bulletins. I strongly encourage you to use these excellent products. If you have any plans for travel in avalanche terrain in these parks, read them throughout the season. This will help you develop a clearer picture of the conditions as they evolve over the winter and allow you to make better decisions when you are in the terrain.
 
The Canadian Avalanche Center will begin producing their public avalanche bulletins next week. Therefore, this will be the last ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the season. We shall start with the summaries again in late spring when the CAC stops producing bulletins. As with the parks bulletins I strongly encourage you to make full use of the CAC's fabulous product. ACMG guides will still be posting MCR's from their travels to supplement the Parks and CAC's regular bulletins.
 
Thank You for tuning in to our reports and for all the great feedback we have had. Have a fun and safe winter!
 
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Selkirk Mountains - Rogers Pass - Bruins Pass Nov.8-07

The last system left 10cm. in the Connaught Ck. valley bottom and 15-20cms. new snow above treeline.

 

Sunny skies and mild temps resulted in some snowballing (and suncrust formation) off steeper south-southwest facing slopes – otherwise the snow was dry and loose on the surface with little wind effect from the last storm observed in the area.

 

No recent avalanches observed and ski cuts did not produce any results.

 

In tests the snowpack in this area appeared well bonded to the crust down 60-80cms. from the surface.

 

The 10cms of snow in the valley bottom has transformed an icy deadly bobsled track into reasonable skiing.

 

Looks like more precip on the way and this afternoon’s darkening skies have produced light rain in Revelstoke this evening.

 

Cheers,

 

Scott Davis

Mountain Guide