Observations from several guides working in the Columbia icefields the last few days.
The storm snow from last week has been subjected to some melt freeze cycles up to at least 3400m. The resultant crust in largely unsupportive and makes for somewhat difficult trail breaking where no trail exists. (shin scrapping). Boot penetration ranges from 0-30cm. North glacier, North Face bypass, and silverhorn routes were all climbed on Saturday. Good conditions were found on all. Mostly snow climbing with good footing on the silverhorn with a few bare ice sections. Nface bypass good snow steps, upper rock ridge snow covered. Good track on N glacier ramp. N face looked great with a mix of bare ice and some snow patches, crux pitch looked like rock not ice.
Generally cool conditions throughout the trip with above freezing temps (+5) in campground in the mornings, but at glacier elevations things stayed frozen all day (yesterday). Last night there was a trace of new snow right to valley bottom, and a good freeze in the campground (-1@0700).
No avalanche observations but evidence of moist sluffs and pinwheeling from last week’s warm daytime temps.
Looks like some mixed alpine routes are coming in, but after our warm summer, lots are looking fairly dry.
Melt freeze crust could provide a sliding layer with the next major snow/ wind event.
Cheers
Jeff Honig- Mountain Guide
Jeff Honig
Mountain Guide
Alpine Addictions
Box 1106
Revelstoke BC
V0E2S0
(250)837-2215 (home)
(240)837-1333 (cell)
jeff@alpineaddictions.com