Collier yesterday, Oct 9.
20-30 cm of low density faceting snow overlies a melt freeze crusts on
most slopes. Surface hoar on the surface. On steep south aspects the
surface snow is getting a bit moist. No slabbing noted on any aspects
or elevations. I popped a small chunk of soft cornice near the summit,
it didn't propagate but did trigger a moist loose snow sluff down the
steep south facing gully below that may have turned into a small size 2
by the time it hit the glacier.
Descent was made down the north glacier/north ridge to the Lake O'Hara
road. It would have been good skiing on the glacier!
This route is highly recommended. Firm rock, steep climbing on big
bucket holds with an interesting approach and descent made for a great
day out in perfect indian summer weather.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
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