and early ice, but just in case anyone is still bare-handing it out
there, I thought I'd pass on some rock conditions. I was up the
regular route on Chinaman's yesterday with a guest and then on the
West ridge of Mt. Buller today.
On Ha Ling, though some of the lower face is still quite clear of
snow, much of the low angled rock has received a fresh dusting of
snow and the big ledges are starting to drift over. Ice has begun to
fill in some cracks and runnels as well, particularly in the upper
half of the face, making the last 2-3 pitches cruxy. Despite having
to excavate handholds, we still found the route to be in climbable
shape and a good refresher for colder conditions ahead.
Despite a dry day in Canmore today, K-country is already snow
plastered on most aspects, though only a dusting below treeline, and
was storming this afternoon. 1-2cm of snow and ice has accumulated on
the lee aspects of the ridge on Buller. Travel was still relatively
straightforward on mostly exposed rock, and made for a pleasant (ish)
option in these transitional days. By midday, the weather was
'freshening' with sub-zero temps and strong SW winds (60 km/h gusting
to 100km/h+) blowing ice pellets which accumulated but did not
adhere. Much more white than grey up there now.
Have at it!
Carl Johnston
Rock Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.