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Wednesday, November 16, 2005

[MCR] Stanley Head Wall and Roger's Pass.

Was up to the Stanley Valley for my first day of ice of the year. Climbed
Nemesis, generally Grade 5 shape except for about 25m of Grade 6 up from the
big ledge.
Had to make a quick traversse under a bit of spray on the mid way ledge, but
only got a little wet. Generally great ice, good pro and all-round fun.
Trail all the way to the back end is in fine waliking shape. Not much for snow
pack issues, there is the odd thick isolated slab in the form of drifts here
and there.
Roger's Pass today. Generally the same observations as Scott reported.
Definetley some moderate winds and snow transportation at treeline and above
and more so on the ridges. Thicker snow with moderate concern immediatley in
the Lee tapering out quickly. Not much tension in the snow pack overall. Saw
no new avalanches, but would expect slabs to start popping out with extra
loading. Some old sun crust at and just above treeline on steeper south
aspects getting buried with recent new snow. Bloody alders are huge this year
and standing at attention.
Cheerio.
Rich Marshall
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