Route is in good early season shape - 2 pitches of grade 4. Good ice
today, lots of water around keeping the ice soft and easy sticks but not
getting soaked. Take some stubbies as its still pretty thin and lots of
"gong" noises on the first pitch - no rock gear needed. I climbed to
the very top of the last pitch and ended up in a drifted snow gully with
only 1" thick ice to be found (despite alot of digging) - no anchors and
so had to downclimb 10 meters. Ended up belaying on the ice just below
the last steep step to the top.
10 cm snow at the base of the route, windy day was drifting it around
and stiffening the snow. Below threshold for large avalanches but at
the higher elevations, it felt like an unlucky person certainly could
trigger an isolated slab. No avalanche issues on the route today.
The Terrace Trail has an AB Parks closure on it due to a cougar last
seen Sept 25 . . . you can't walk down the trail but its still easy to
avoid the closure and approach the route by going directly up the treed
shoulder.
Grant, Mark K
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