[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 23, 2009

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 23, 2009 The warm system that ran through western Canada last week resulted in high freezing levels and rain well into the alpine. The past few days has seen a return to more seasonal temperatures with daytime highs in the single digits and overnight lows dipping below freezing at valley bottoms. So I have very little information to deal with in preparing this summary, since many guides have fled to the south seeking warm rock, and others are hunkered down with first aid recert courses and home renovations. One of two responses I got to my plea for beta was from Larry, who wrote "Funny! I have been with 25 wily old avalanche forecasters from all over western Canada for 3 days. Collectively, all we can tell you is exactly what I assume you can see from your house." Yesterday I went for a trip up to Ranger Creek and found that the ice is still there and the recent cooler weather is yielding excellent (though still a tad thin and hollow in spots) climbing conditions. Recent storm snow amounted to about 5 cm overlying another 10-20cm of rain soaked crud. This morning on my drive from Canmore to the Bighorn Reserve I noticed the snowline down to about treeline (2000m-ish) and windswept from the moderate to strong W and SW winds we've had over the week. The snow depth is still extremely variable, ranging from non-existent dry ridges to wind loaded pockets and gullies high in the alpine. Murchison and Virtual Reality, which catch mid-day sun, are not doing so well, with a gaping hole at the top of Murchison. David Thompson Hwy has significantly less snow, and ice is not even close to being in -- Kitty Hawk has some ice but big holes, and Elliot Left is a wet smear. The one exception was Two O'Clock Falls, which is climbable but probably a bit spicy for WI2. At Rogers Pass the snowline is reported to be at about 1400m, a bit higher east and west, with 10cms of new snow in the alpine bringing that to a grand total of 25cm total snow depth. Ice lines are described as "anorexic" at best. Hiking in valley bottoms, like elsewhere in western Canada at the moment, is still pleasant. For those of you considering heading into the alpine, or (shudder) looking for some turns expect an adventure replete with the early winter hazards that have been discussed in the past few summaries: very thin and poor snowpack, poorly bridged crevasses, rockfall especially on solar aspects, etc. etc. A month after the equinox usually marks the time in the Rockies when we can expect early season ice with a bit of hunting, and this year is no exception. While climbs at lower elevations and on exposed, south and west aspects will be thin or non-existent, good ice climbing will be found by those who know where to look for it. Amongst the chokecherries there are definitely some plums waiting for an early harvest. The next few days the weather is forecast to cool down some more, with clouds and a few flurries -- great if you are into ice climbing. As for myself, this afternoon I plan to scramble up a shoulder season favourite of mine, the S ridge descending to Windy Corner on Abraham Lake. Over the weekend I plan to go for a hike in search of some ice with manageable and straightforward hazard. And probably fantasize a little about sun soaked rock. Regards, Tom Wolfe ASG/AAG

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 15, 2009

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 15, 2009 Winter came in with a vengance last weekend with temperatures dropping to below -20 degrees in the Rockies. This left folks scrambling to find their down jackets and ice tools and the rock shoes have been thrown in the back of the cupboard. Around Canmore and along the Icefields Parkway there is a fair bit of ice that is already in reasonable early season shape. Several parties have been in to Ranger Creek and R&D is reported as "thick and worth it". Around Sunwapta, Shades of Beauty, Tangle Falls, Murchison and others are starting to see some traffic. Thin screw placements and early season fragility can be expected. There is enough snow on the descents that the chance of popping a small wind slab and taking a cheese grater ride is a concern. In the alpine, 20-40cm of new snow has fallen with some wind effect. Reports from the Wapta and the Columbia Icefields are consistent with thinly covered crevasse bridges, isolated wind slabs and early season crusts and basal facets. This new snow is facetting over the dryest and blackest year on the local glaciers that anyone has experienced and will definitely require monitoring as the season progresses. How the snowpack bonds to this underlying ice and dirt will be interesting to see, but I suspect not well. There is not really enough snow yet to warrant skiing. Reports from inside at Rogers Pass are of snow on the ground at 1350 metres and estimates of 20- 50cm as you increase in elevation. Similar issues of thinly covered hidden crevasses and the potential for slab avalanches on steep terrain would be expected there on the glaciers. The forecast for the weekend is for warming temperatures and rain and snow showers as a low pressure system moves in from the coast. The warm temperatures will definitely effect the ice climbing and I expect some climbs will begin to fall down and melt. In addition, wet snow slides over smooth ground cover will be a concern. Higher elevation north facing ice climbs will probably hold up. Alternately, alpine scramble routes on ridges could be an option if you are prepared to deal with wintery conditions. Brad White Mountain Guide

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 15, 2009

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 15, 2009 Winter came in with a vengance last weekend with temperatures dropping to below -20 degrees in the Rockies. This left folks scrambling to find their down jackets and ice tools and the rock shoes have been thrown in the back of the cupboard. Around Canmore and along the Icefields Parkway there is a fair bit of ice that is already in reasonable early season shape. Several parties have been in to Ranger Creek and R&D is reported as "thick and worth it". Around Sunwapta, Shades of Beauty, Tangle Falls, Murchison and others are starting to see some traffic. Thin screw placements and early season fragility can be expected. There is enough snow on the descents that the chance of popping a small wind slab and taking a cheese grater ride is a concern. In the alpine, 20-40cm of new snow has fallen with some wind effect. Reports from the Wapta and the Columbia Icefields are consistent with thinly covered crevasse bridges, isolated wind slabs and early season crusts and basal facets. This new snow is facetting over the dryest and blackest year on the local glaciers that anyone has experienced and will definitely require monitoring as the season progresses. How the snowpack bonds to this underlying ice and dirt will be interesting to see, but I suspect not well. There is not really enough snow yet to warrant skiing. Reports from inside at Rogers Pass are of snow on the ground at 1350 metres and estimates of 20- 50cm as you increase in elevation. Similar issues of thinly covered hidden crevasses and the potential for slab avalanches on steep terrain would be expected there on the glaciers. The forecast for the weekend is for warming temperatures and rain and snow showers as a low pressure system moves in from the coast. The warm temperatures will definitely effect the ice climbing and I expect some climbs will begin to fall down and melt. In addition, wet snow slides over smooth ground cover will be a concern. Higher elevation north facing ice climbs will probably hold up. Alternately, alpine scramble routes on ridges could be an option if you are prepared to deal with wintery conditions. Brad White Mountain Guide

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 8, 2009

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 8, 2009 This past week has seen mixed weather with below freezing nights and cool and cloudy days with light rain and snow showers in the Rockies. Alpine travel at the moment is not good, with postholing and tedious travel through unconsolidated snow and snow covered rock. Coverage on glaciers continues to be poor with still plenty of exposed ice in windswept locations and weakly bridged crevasses. While they may offer tempting skiing, glaciers are generally in poor condition at the moment and extreme caution must be exercised. This means expertise, probing and roped travel. Small slab avalanches big enough to knock you off your feet (sz 1) were being reported up until yesterday. With the strong north/northeast winds, be alert for lee aspects (e.g. west and south as well as crossloaded features) that will certainly be primed for larger avalanches by now with this latest storm. On Thursday afternoon a cold storm system has swept in from the northeast depositing as much as 10 cm at valley bottom in the Rockies. The forecast for tonight in Lake Louise and the Icefields is for around -20C, and the daytime high on Friday around -10C!! Although I have limited data from the Interior, it looks like the storm dried out just west of the Rockies and left little in the way of precipitation in the Columbias. Rogers Pass seems to have received just a few centimeters today. The total snow depth in the alpine in the Rockies ranges from 10cm (solar aspects, lower elevation) to 40cm (shaded, sheltered aspects) with reports of slabs in windloaded areas of up to 100cm. Waterfall ice is forming rapidly and spectacularly in the high cold places like the Stanley Headwall and Terminator Wall. Keep in mind, however, that it is very early season and the rock underlying the ice is still cooling off from the summer. I would expect poor bonding, thin ice, limited protection, and challenging climbing. Alpine rock throughout the Rockies and Columbias is a write-off at the moment, and the long range forecast shows no sign of improvement in this regard. To sum up, it will be a challenge to find safe, entertaining mountain adventure this weekend. With a sunny (but cold) forecast, it will be very tempting to spend some time in the mountains. Keep in mind the cold weather, the conditions and the hazards, and set your objectives accordingly. Regards, Tom Wolfe ACMG AAG/ASG

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] K Country snow

Out for a wander today, making it to about 2700 m on Burstall Peak.

Overall only a few cm's of snow on the ground but that makes for some slippery scrambling. We avoided areas with bad runouts below in case we went for a little slide and decided against going the final little way along the narrow ridge to the summit.

Of note is that in isolated windloaded pockets on smooth terrain we have definitely reached threshold depth where there is now enough snow to avalanche. A slab avalanche wouldn't be very wide but if it took you off your feet in the wrong place it would be nasty.

Friends - I do have some - report that they triggered several micro-slabs in the Highwood Pass area yesterday, where some pockets have up to a meter of snow in them from windloading.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com

[MCR] Athabasca Area Conditions, Jasper Park - Sept 30 - Oct 3

A group of Thompson Rivers University students and instructors finished a few days of mountaineering in Jasper on October 3rd, camping at the Icefields campground and climbing in the Athabasca area.  Generally conditions were quite dry, with lots of exposed ice.  Recent minor snowfall had accumulated on lee slopes and was enough to fill hollows on the glaciers and hide crevasses with thin snow cover.  A larger snowfall on the night of October 2nd has now altered conditions considerably.

 

We climbed the Silverhorn route on Mt. Athabasca on October 1, and except for a few deep (up to 1 meter) loaded pockets at the base of the route, it was bare brittle ice the whole way up, for about 10 rope lengths.  Cold temps (-10 to -12 C) and windy!  We decided against the ramp route descent due to the obvious snow loading from the moderate southwest winds.  We descended the skier's right side of the AA Col, down snow covered scree, and did a half rope-length belayed downclimb over the well covered bergschrund (covered with rocks, snow, ice).  I have attached a photo of both sides of the AA Col from October 1.  It snowed 10-15 cm at the Icefields campground on the night of October 2nd, so the attached photo shows condition prior to the last snowfall. 

 

Groups also climbed Boundary Peak, and conducted practice sessions on the toe of the Athabasca Glacier as well as on the climber's right side of the North Glacier on Mt. Athabasca.  I have attached a couple photos to show the excellent practice crevasse / millwell  that can be accessed from the toe of the Athabasca Glacier, in about the center of the glacier, just past the second glaciology pole. 

 

There is enough snow now for avalanches to be a concern, especially on loaded lee slopes.  A ride in an avalanche could result in a fall into one of the numerous crevasses or over a cliff. 

 

Glacier travel will be difficult, with numerous hidden crevasses under the new snow.  Roped travel and probing ahead is highly recommended.

 

Thompson Rivers University Adventure Studies:

 

Iain Stewart-Patterson - Mountain Guide

Jordy Shepherd - Mountain Guide

Abby Watkins - ACMG Alpine Guide / Assistant Ski Guide

Jeff Honig - Mountain Guide

Craig McGee - Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary issued Oct. 1st, 2009

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 1st, 2009

 

It is finally starting to feel like Autumn in the mountains. The temperatures are cold and ice is starting to form in small dribbles in the alpine. However, it is still REALLY dry for this time of year.

 

West of the continental divide, light snow fell in most areas above treeline in the past few days. The limited reports indicate that snowfall amounts varied widely between ranges and even valleys. Most of the new snow has melted on sun exposed slopes, but verglas is a possibility there. Reports of snow remaining on North aspects in the Columbias vary from 2000 to 2400m. Rockies reports indicate generally light snowfalls(up to 10cms) and melting on south slopes but there is still some snow in the trees at O'Hara. Thin windslabs in some alpine areas. The take home point is that it is probably white above treeline on anything not directly facing the sun. 

 

Rockfall is STILL being reported from the wind and from when the sun came out Wednesday. This is likely to continue till snow starts to bury the rubble.

 

Glacier travel is still either bare ice, ice buried in rubble or crevasses poorly bridged by the light autumn snow. Not that appealing sounding.

 

Waterfall ice is just starting to form and no one is raving about how good it looks just yet.

 

Alpine rock, brrr! Some snow, some verglas and a grey forecast.

 

Seems like the best climbing conditions are east of the Rockies divide. Given the weekend weather forecast, I would be aiming for easy objectives and packing my woollie undies and puffy jackets or catching up on books and movies. 

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide