[MCR] Jasper - Hidden Valley - possible safety hazard

Some time between 5PM June 1 and 8AM on June 2 a sheep managed to fall to
its death at the base of the old traditional climbing route called Old Salt
in Hidden Valley. Old Salt is just beyond the popular 1st wall sport
climbing area. By the end of June 2nd various animals had begun discovering
the carcass and had started to open the gut and expose the entrails. This
dead sheep is only a few feet from the main trail and cannot be avoided if
travelling up the valley.

The smell had reached to the top of the main south wall climbing routes by
early afternoon and it is likely that if a person could smell it then other
more aggressive predators may be attracted to the area as well.

It is likely a good idea to give Hidden Valley a miss for a couple of weeks
to avoid any unfortunate encounters with bears, cougars or the like. Just
for information, both black and grizzly bears have been spotted over the
years in Hidden Valley but they are a rare occurrence. This situation may
change that for the short term so caution is advised.

Cyril Shokoples
Jeremy Mackenzie
Peter Amann

Rescue Dynamics
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
http://www.rescuedynamics.com

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbias, June 4 2009.

ACMG MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS SUMMARY FOR THE ROCKIES AND COLUMBIAS JUNE 4, 2009.

 

Fair weather continues to promote receding of the winter snow line.  Wet slab and loose snow avalanches as well as cornice failures continue to occur.  Upper elevation north aspects still retain a winter snowpack with concerns for midpack and deep instabilities.  Overnight radiation freezes are critical.  As we approach the solstice, it is important to remember how early and late the sun will affect snow slopes.  A number of alpine rock routes are coming into shape but approaches and descents will require negotiating some snow slopes.  A significant change in weather is forecasted for the Rockies over the weekend with precipitation and snow possible down to valley bottoms.  It sounds hard to believe sitting on the deck in this summer weather.

 

In the Rockies south of the Columbia Icefields and east of the main ranges conditions have improved.  Routes such as Castle Tower and routes on the lower tier of Castle are getting climbed.  The upper tier of Castle is likely also in reasonable shape but it will be a snow wallow getting to the descent gully.  The Gmoser and Kain routes on Mt. Louis are probably getting close.  Again, the descent gully will likely still have snow and ice in it. Lower elevation Front Range routes in Jasper such as Bedson Ridge are in good shape but at last report the higher objectives were still snowy.  Along the Continental Divide it will still take a while.  All of the high objectives from Edith Cavell to Assiniboine are very much in winter conditions although steep snow slopes are starting to show ice.  Lower peaks such as Grassi Ridge are climbable but will require negotiating some snow.  At the Columbia Icefields, reports indicate varying conditions but with early starts and finishes, the north face routes and the AA route on Athabasca appear to be in good shape.

 

In the interior ranges, the deeper winter snowpack still prevails.  In the Bugaboos, the snowline is still well below the Kain Hut (see Gord Irwin’s photos taken yesterday).  There are no recent reports from Roger’s pass but it is likely that routes in the Sir Donald and Hermit area are still a ways off.  The timing for the routes on Mt. McDonald might be right if there is enough snow to deal with the alder bash and yet be manageable from a stability perspective.  I also noticed some serious moats forming there when driving by a week ago.

 

We are turning the corner on a late spring.  Stay tuned on reports from ACMG guides working in the various ranges.

 

Marc Ledwidge

ACMG/UIAGM Mountain Guide

 

 

 

[MCR] Mt Columbia

Hello,

The Yamnuska Mountain Skills Semester, Sarah H. and I have just returned from an attempt on Mt Columbia. Very little other traffic up on the Icefield during our time up there which was suprizing given the great weather. A few notes to pass on for folks heading up that way. We were unsuccessful in climbing Mt Columbia as we were turned back from the East Face by slabby snow conditions. Snow stability tests showed a varieable depth slab (10-60cm) sitting on a hard crust and 3-4mm Surface Hoar was easily visable at this interface. Clean, moderate shears were observed at this layer. We also attempted the South ridge of Columbia and were turned back at about 3500m by warm temps affecting the snow pack. The South ridge had previously been climbed and with a good freeze I would imagine it would be in good shape as we did not find the same snow conditions as on the East Face.

The Icefield still has plenty of snow 250cm at the top of the Athabasca glacier and more than 350cm at the Trench. Of note are the depths of snow coming up the Athabasca glacier which are becoming thin very quickly. We were able to use the centre ramp coming up the Athabasca ice fall (descrided by Barry in an earlier MCR) in both dirrections but it was getting a bit sporty when we desended. I would not recommend it if you don't have a good freeze as there are many snow bridges to cross that are unavoidable.

It seems like great conditions out there as long as you have an early start with a good freeze and are off the snow before it warms up. Keep your eyes open for those remaining winter like snow pack areas.

Enjoy the good weather,

Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

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[MCR] Mt Robson video cam

Just found out about this cam just put in at the Robson info Centre.
Not sure yet if it is year round but a descent shot of both the
weather and "general" view of the SW side of Mt. Robson. At least you
can tell if there is fresh snow on the lower slopes....or if the
weather is socked in.....cool!

http://142.27.132.71/view/index.shtml

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide
pamann@incentre.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Lake Louise Big Bee Hive

I took a group hiking today to the Big Bee Hive from the Plain of Six Glaciers side. From the intersection of the connector trail to Mirror Lake on, 2/3 of the trail is snow covered and there was no evidence of previous travel. Same goes for the northern aspect trail that leads up from Lake Agnes – very wintery looking and no tracks! Any snowy spots were unsupportive already in the morning, mind you we travelled on a southern aspect.  

 

We also did the tourist trail up the rock pile at Morraine Lake. Again, a very wintery look for the valley of the 10 peaks! There is still snow on the treed ledge of the Tower of Babel rock route and some snow in the upper part of the descent couloir.  The 3.5 couloir appears in good condition but beware of the day time warming both for climbing up and skiing…….

 

Cheers,

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA / VDBS)

 

www.ontopmountaineering.com

1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717

 

[MCR] Andromeda Practice Gullies

Climbed the right "Practice Gully" on Andromeda today. Excellent
conditions on a great moderate classic route, it still felt a bit like
winter up there today. Overhead cornice hazard on right gully is
minimal. There is a huge cornice over the left gully and a couple of
medium-sized hanging ones over the middle gully that looked
well-rooted for now in the cold temps. The middle gully looks to be in
excellent condition as well with continuous snow and ice to an easy
exit between the cornices at the top. We descended the AA Col. Some
new snow (up to 30 cm overlying brittle ice) lower down on the gully
and on the descent made for good steps.

Thin coverage on the glacier -- 0 to 200cm. Right gully bergschrund is
fairly well bridged, ~ 250 cm where we crossed in the middle. Top
rubbly ledges are currently covered with about 20-30 cm of facetted
snow which held things together. Good freeze overnight (2C at 4am in
the parking lot with clear skies) and cool temps throughout the day
meant the snow even on the descent on steep south facing slopes above
AA col was still firm in the early afternoon. We used a few pitons and
a few small to medium cams for the anchors for the mixed pitches at
the top (4th class).

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Athabasca area-May 30 and 31/09

Spent May 30 and 31 around the Mt. Athabasca area.

May 30- Plenty of snow at Parkers ridge that was isothermal and sloppy
on Saturday. Still offered a good opportunity to practice basic snow
climbing skills.

May 31- Went from the toe of the North Athabasca glacier to the
Boundary-Athabasca col and over to the west ridge of A2 peak (a small
peak between Mt. Hilda and the East side of Athabasca).
There was bare ice on the steep part of the glacier toe with
increasingly deep snow as we gained the col. With a good overnight
freeze (-2 at 4am at the campground) the travel was fast and the
didn't start to soften until mid afternoon. Similar conditions were
found on the Boundary glacier (snow was 1.5 -2 meters deep) with most
of the big slots still well hidden with the winter snow.

All in all conditions are highly variable. The glaciers felt pretty
good while frozen hard but would be terrifying if in isothermal
conditions. The same goes for the snow and ice faces. It is probably
wise to still stay off committing high Northerly aspects that haven't
had a really good exposure to the heat of spring ie: the ramp route on
Athabasca. With a good overnight freeze and an early start many other
routes such as the AA col route, Silverhorn, North Face of Athabasca,
Skyladder appear to have minimal winter snow lurking above and plenty
of bare ice exposed. The Andromeda Strain, Shooting Gallery, Asteroid
Alley, and Grand Central Couloir could be in really good condition
with properly cool overnight temps and minimal daytime warming.

Beware that sun exposed descents late in the afternoon and warming
cornices are a major concern this time of year and are a major
consideration when looking at the choice of routes and timing of your
climbs.

Rob Owens- ACMG alpine guide and Assistant Ski Guide

mobile 403-609-0960

www.robowensguiding.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.