We had a romp up towards Cayoosh mountain yesterday. At the parking lot there was roughly 40cm of snow and at ridge top somewhere around 80cm. The upper road was a little more free of alder but neither was too bad. ROCK SKIS are a must.
We noticed a lot of wind effect (previous to the last snowfall) and were quite thankful of it. Although the there was boot top penetration the only good skiing we found was in cross loaded features where there was up to a meter of snow. Anywhere else it was impossible to avoid rock or shrubbery.
A thin rain crust at the parking lot disappeared before we reached the cabin. A compression test at tree line on a northerly cross loaded slope unevenly sheared with moderate results. The top 15cm of southerly slopes got a little soft with the afternoon sun. In the cut blocks there was 2cm surface hoar but it had only grown to about 4mm at tree line.
At tree line we skied it like it was GOOD stability and below treeline it appeared GOOD as well but we didn't come across any slope that had reached the threshold snow-cover to produce an avalanche. We didn't get into the alpine.
Conny Amelunxen
MG
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Wednesday, November 21, 2007
[MCR] Marble Canyon, Kootney Ntl Park
On Nov 19 we ran a couple of quick laps on the pillar that forms in Marble Canyon. It was climbable but would be a very committing lead, and not just because of the anorexic ice. The creek has not frozen over yet and while we were there an ice dam broke up the way sending a surge that raised the water level by at least two feet. Had we been belaying from the bottom the belayer would have been washed out to sea.
Several of the mixed climbs in there look ready to go, and in fact some are quite plump. I would recommend waiting a while however until the creek does freeze over.
Conny Amelunxen
Mountain Guide
> Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 16:08:09 -0800
> To: mcr@informalex.org
> From: mcr@informalex.org
> Subject: [MCR] wapta Nov 14-18th
>
>
> Up ski touring on the Wapta with a group last week.
>
> Skied from the road all the way to Bow hut with not too much problem in the
> canyon.
>
> The entire bowl with the seracs above the final slope to bow hut had avalanched
> as a very healthy size 3 some days prior. This slide was roughly 500m wide and
> ran at least 500m, well past where skiers cross the valley. The debris would
> have easily buried a large group. Numerous other slabs observed that day and
> the next, mostly on lee slopes.
>
> Skied only on the icefield itself between Bow and Peyto huts and ascended no
> peaks due to poor visibility, highly variable snowpack depth, and moderate to
> high south west winds most of the week.
>
> Snowpack on the icefield ranged from 2m to 30cms with bare ice. Average
> snowpack at 8-9,000ft is around 150 cms. Rounding the corner up to St. Nicholas
> on the north side was patchy bare ice with very large crevasses. That in
> conjunction with poor weather made turning around a good idea.
>
> Great skiing on the slopes above Bow Hut with 10cms of low density snow.
>
> It will be tempting with good weather ahead to venture into the alpine but the
> potential is very real, especially near ridge top, lee aspects for skier
> triggered slabs from all the wind last week. Keep in mind the variable snowpack
> depths this early in the season, it all looks the same on the surface.
>
> Cheers
> Steve Holeczi
> Alpine Guide, Assistant Ski Guide
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
> Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Are you ready for Windows Live Messenger Beta 8.5 ? Get the latest for free today!
Several of the mixed climbs in there look ready to go, and in fact some are quite plump. I would recommend waiting a while however until the creek does freeze over.
Conny Amelunxen
Mountain Guide
> Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 16:08:09 -0800
> To: mcr@informalex.org
> From: mcr@informalex.org
> Subject: [MCR] wapta Nov 14-18th
>
>
> Up ski touring on the Wapta with a group last week.
>
> Skied from the road all the way to Bow hut with not too much problem in the
> canyon.
>
> The entire bowl with the seracs above the final slope to bow hut had avalanched
> as a very healthy size 3 some days prior. This slide was roughly 500m wide and
> ran at least 500m, well past where skiers cross the valley. The debris would
> have easily buried a large group. Numerous other slabs observed that day and
> the next, mostly on lee slopes.
>
> Skied only on the icefield itself between Bow and Peyto huts and ascended no
> peaks due to poor visibility, highly variable snowpack depth, and moderate to
> high south west winds most of the week.
>
> Snowpack on the icefield ranged from 2m to 30cms with bare ice. Average
> snowpack at 8-9,000ft is around 150 cms. Rounding the corner up to St. Nicholas
> on the north side was patchy bare ice with very large crevasses. That in
> conjunction with poor weather made turning around a good idea.
>
> Great skiing on the slopes above Bow Hut with 10cms of low density snow.
>
> It will be tempting with good weather ahead to venture into the alpine but the
> potential is very real, especially near ridge top, lee aspects for skier
> triggered slabs from all the wind last week. Keep in mind the variable snowpack
> depths this early in the season, it all looks the same on the surface.
>
> Cheers
> Steve Holeczi
> Alpine Guide, Assistant Ski Guide
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
> Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Are you ready for Windows Live Messenger Beta 8.5 ? Get the latest for free today!
Monday, November 19, 2007
[MCR] wapta Nov 14-18th
Up ski touring on the Wapta with a group last week.
Skied from the road all the way to Bow hut with not too much problem in the
canyon.
The entire bowl with the seracs above the final slope to bow hut had avalanched
as a very healthy size 3 some days prior. This slide was roughly 500m wide and
ran at least 500m, well past where skiers cross the valley. The debris would
have easily buried a large group. Numerous other slabs observed that day and
the next, mostly on lee slopes.
Skied only on the icefield itself between Bow and Peyto huts and ascended no
peaks due to poor visibility, highly variable snowpack depth, and moderate to
high south west winds most of the week.
Snowpack on the icefield ranged from 2m to 30cms with bare ice. Average
snowpack at 8-9,000ft is around 150 cms. Rounding the corner up to St. Nicholas
on the north side was patchy bare ice with very large crevasses. That in
conjunction with poor weather made turning around a good idea.
Great skiing on the slopes above Bow Hut with 10cms of low density snow.
It will be tempting with good weather ahead to venture into the alpine but the
potential is very real, especially near ridge top, lee aspects for skier
triggered slabs from all the wind last week. Keep in mind the variable snowpack
depths this early in the season, it all looks the same on the surface.
Cheers
Steve Holeczi
Alpine Guide, Assistant Ski Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Friday, November 16, 2007
[MCR] Stanley Headwall (Nov 15)
Climbed at the Thriller Cave at the end of Stanley Headwall yesterday
(on Nov 15). About 10cm of new snow overnight in the parking lot.
Walking is still definitely the travel mode of choice. There is about
20-30cm of snow on the trail and scree making for awkward stumbling
but not enough to ski. Temperatures were mild (just below 0 C) making
for nice soft ice. In general, it is good early season ice conditions
for Stanley. The following is a quick summation of how various routes
looked from right to left:
(on Nov 15). About 10cm of new snow overnight in the parking lot.
Walking is still definitely the travel mode of choice. There is about
20-30cm of snow on the trail and scree making for awkward stumbling
but not enough to ski. Temperatures were mild (just below 0 C) making
for nice soft ice. In general, it is good early season ice conditions
for Stanley. The following is a quick summation of how various routes
looked from right to left:
French Reality: Completely formed but couldn't tell if the first pitch
is thin ice or just snow on slabs.
Dawn of the Dead: This rarely formed route is in.
Nightmare of Wolfe St: Looks to be in excellent shape.
Monsieur Hulot: Can't see any ice on the lower mixed pitches
Acid Howl: Not there.
Uniform Queen: Looks thin.
Suffer Machine: Fat, might even touch down...
Fiasco: Formed but thin.
General Malaise: Formed but thin.
Nemesis: Formed and has been climbed.
Sinus Gully: Fat.
Thriller: Fat, plus lots of good ice on the other Killer Cave mixed
routes.
Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Sunday, November 11, 2007
[MCR] K-Country - Amadeus
Marc Piché
Mountain Guide
Saturday, November 10, 2007
[MCR] Murchison Falls and K-Country
For those itching to get out,
Nov 7 - Murchison Falls was in good shape, see Jesse's post. Cosmic Messenger and other routes in that drainage looked healthy.
Nov 8 - Hiked into Parallel Falls in K-country. Both routes were all there, though young ice, with much water flowing underneath. The sun was out in full force, warming the detached ice and the (big) terrain above these routes, so we turned tail and ran away. A cold snap and a cloudy day would be essential to look at these routes again. Already, pockets of knee deep, moist snow have gathered on the slope below. For those interested, a much shorter approach is to park at Burstall Pass parking lot. A few minutes from the car where the hiking trail turns left up a small hill, go straight and follow snowshoe trails (some signs) to the drainage leading up left to the climbs. Just over an hour of walking as compared to the 2.5hrs as described in the book.
R&D looked like it is missing the first 10m of ice, bring rock gear, stubbies and a humble attitude. Chalice and the Blade has fallen down, but Thin Universe looks to be in classic shape.
Have patience, and don't be afraid to say no and return another day.
Jason Billing
ARG
[MCR] Shades of Beauty/Polar Circus
Hello
Climbed the bottom pitches of Polar Circus on Wednesday with Geoff Ruttan. We bailed just before the pencil as the ice was melting quickly from the high temperatures (+6). The lower steps were gone when we walked down around 11AM. Moved over to Shades of Beauty which was in pretty good shape (best thing I've seen this year so far..). Solid screws on every pitch. Rick Blak Memorial route looks to be in good shape as well.
Seems like a very slow start for the "regulars".... have faith....
Cheers
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide
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