[MCR] Collier

Erica Roles and I had a recreational day out on the west ridge of
Collier yesterday, Oct 9.

20-30 cm of low density faceting snow overlies a melt freeze crusts on
most slopes. Surface hoar on the surface. On steep south aspects the
surface snow is getting a bit moist. No slabbing noted on any aspects
or elevations. I popped a small chunk of soft cornice near the summit,
it didn't propagate but did trigger a moist loose snow sluff down the
steep south facing gully below that may have turned into a small size 2
by the time it hit the glacier.

Descent was made down the north glacier/north ridge to the Lake O'Hara
road. It would have been good skiing on the glacier!

This route is highly recommended. Firm rock, steep climbing on big
bucket holds with an interesting approach and descent made for a great
day out in perfect indian summer weather.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Fay W ridge, Perren Route

Sunday Oct 8:

Perren route -- there is a dusting of snow on the rock starting at valley
bottom and steadily increasing in volume the higher you go. On the Perren
step, most holds have a little snow or ice on them. Overall this made for
slower going. Past the two bolted pitches we traversed far right and climbed
the left margin of the glacier to bypass the last step ("M2") rather than
stick to the icy rock, which worked well.

Glacier/Mt Fay W ridge -- there is about 5-7 cm of low density, facetted
storm snow above 2700 m, 1 mm surface hoar observed. This has been
redistributed somewhat by wind, but we didn't see any major cornice
development or windloading. Still, I did kick off a small reactive soft slab
(20 cm thick & 4 m wide at the crown, broke clean and fast) right at the lip
approaching the Bergschrund, I imagine from spindrift floating down from the
steep slope above. The schrund is spectacular, but easily negotiated on the
climber's left. The slope itself was partly cleaned out by sloughing and the
remaining 5-15 cm of snow is mostly facetted and non-consolidated with
brittle ice below.

Temperatures: -6 C at 5 am in the parking lot at Moraine Lake, -7 C at 1 pm
at 2800 m. Little to no wind throughout the day.

My major concern in this area would be isolated pockets of windloading. I
would be extra-cautious, for example, of the steps on the north glacier
route on the far left (Chouinard Route).

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] NE Ridge of Wedge mountain (Coast range)

Out on the NE ridge of Wedge yesterday.
The hut is totally re-done. New roof, door paint,
ext... As well parks Canada has built new camping
sites at the hut and the lower ones at the lake. There
is also a fine new trail from the hut to the lake.
Glacier travel was the same as usual. Going far
left in the beginning and then right at the short mid
section at mid height works best to avoid the bulk of
the crevasses. We took the glacier all the way to the
upper ridge.This still works quite well. The 200m
steep section on the right has a nice few meter wide
path of snow to avoid the blue ice. The upper bench
has no major holes to navigate around.
The knife edge section on the NE ridge is a bit
more "real" than usual. The ridge has many exposed
sections of blue ice or very hard firn snow. This
makes for exposed climb and more cation needs to be
taken than regularly. A few more ice screws on the
rack should help out. The upper face section either
has a 50 degree blue ice section or 100m section of
kinda loose rock.
Temperatures were cool all day with below 0
temperatures above 7500 ft. With these temperatures
there was no softening of the snow or ice throughout
the day.
Have fun. Craig McGee, IFMGA Mountain guide.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Report for October 5, 2006

The good news is that there are great fall conditions out there right now.
In the Rockies, the front ranges are dry and snow and ice conditions along
the divide make for good climbing. With the exception of north aspects,
snow has melted back to about 2900 metres. The bad news is that if the
forecast is correct and the big black clouds moving in mean something, this
will all likely change overnight. This may have been the last window for
Louis, Castle, Roche Miette, Roche Perdrix etc. Rain is starting in Banff
as I type. It looks like a significant amount of precip is expected over
the next 24 hours. Snow is expected at most elevations. This is to be
followed by stable weather but this time of year, routes take longer to dry
off. By Sunday though, south facing lower elevation rock routes might come
back into shape.

In the Bugaboos, the September snows have also mostly melted off and
conditions there are good. Again, on north facing routes such as the NE
ridge of Bugaboo, you can expect some remnant snow but it should be
climbable. The weather there as of this evening is still stable but the
next 24 hours will tell the story. Stay tuned.

Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] BD Harness Recall

Hello:

Hope this hasn't already been posted.  Been away.

 

Paul Vidalin

IFMGA Mountain Guide

 

 

 

 

http://www.cbc.ca/consumers/market/recalls/reclfull/2006/16aaug2006.h

 

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/about/speed_harness_bulletin.php

[MCR] Wooley-Diadem

Climbed Wooley and Diadem today via the S Face of Wooley (from the
Alberta Hut) and the intervening ridge between the two peaks to Diadem.

2 cm of new snow last night at the hut resulted in variable new snow
distribution on the peaks. Up to knee deep in isolated drifts,
generally far less than that with many areas scoured from gusty
westerly winds. It was reasonably easy to work around the loaded areas.
That said there has been some loading on E and NE slopes, and I noticed
that there were facets under the new snow on shaded slopes.

Descent was made down the the gully that drops SE from the col between
the two peaks. Icefall hazard here in the lower part of the gully.

It stayed fairly cool all day with the new snow staying dry except on
steep S facing lower elevation areas protected from the wind.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] columbia icefields/ mt athabasca

Observations from several guides working in the Columbia icefields the last few days. 

The storm snow from last week has been subjected to some melt freeze cycles up to at least 3400m.  The resultant crust in largely unsupportive and makes for somewhat difficult trail breaking where no trail exists.  (shin scrapping).  Boot penetration ranges from 0-30cm.  North glacier, North Face bypass, and silverhorn routes were all climbed on Saturday.  Good conditions were found on all.  Mostly snow climbing with good footing on the silverhorn with a few bare ice sections.  Nface bypass good snow steps, upper rock ridge snow covered.  Good track on N glacier ramp.  N face looked great with a mix of bare ice and some snow patches, crux pitch looked like rock not ice. 

Generally cool conditions throughout the trip with above freezing temps (+5) in campground in the mornings, but at glacier elevations things stayed frozen all day (yesterday).  Last night there was a trace of new snow right to valley bottom, and a good freeze in the campground (-1@0700).

No avalanche observations but evidence of moist sluffs and pinwheeling from last week’s  warm daytime temps.

Looks like some mixed alpine routes are coming in, but after our warm summer, lots are looking fairly dry.

 

Melt freeze crust could provide a sliding layer with the next major snow/ wind event.

 

Cheers

Jeff Honig-  Mountain Guide

 

 

Jeff Honig

Mountain Guide

Alpine Addictions

Box 1106

Revelstoke BC

V0E2S0

(250)837-2215 (home)

(240)837-1333 (cell)

jeff@alpineaddictions.com