Lake O'Hara parking - Narao Shoulder - Pope's Col - Plain of 6
Glaciers - Mitre Col - Paradise Valley - Wasatch Pass - Moraine Lake
- Consolation Pass - Boom Lake. I'd be surprised if these cols
haven't been linked before but I haven't heard of anyone doing it
before. Perhaps the most scenic short traverse I've done.
Conditions were not a surprise. The steep, southerly cliffs and faces
were shedding snow and cornices regularly, starting in the late
morning and going into the early evening, running to the bottom of
the fans. We didn't want to be anywhere near these features after
about 11.30 am. We were avoiding overhead hazard that consisted of
steep sun exposed cliffs and cornices. The steep south facing gully
descent from Mitre Col to Paradise valley was just starting to fall
apart at 11.30 am and we wouldn't have wanted to have been there any
later.
There have been a few full depth wet slab releases on south and west
aspects recently, to size 3.
On more moderate terrain the snow became moist or wet by late morning
right to ridgetop on all aspects but overall the snow was reasonably
stable. Easy tracksetting on soft crusts most of the day at all
elevations although we used ski crampons in a few spots in the morning.
The lakes are poor travel now with ankle deep slush over firm ice
slowing things down. A bit tiring at 9 pm on Boom Lake - hour 16 and
km 35...
Conrad Janzen & Mark Klassen
Mountain Guides
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