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Tuesday, May 24, 2011

[MCR] Oedipus Complex, Cascade Mountain May 23

Climbed Oedipus Complex (5.10c) on Mothers Day Buttress with a friend (an assistant rock guide mentoring day) on May 23.

There was some questionable rock quality, with lots of large hollow sounding blocks in the corner system. The final pitch was weeping a bit, and looked like it had some more loose blocks, with the belay located right below the climbing line with nowhere to hide. So we rappelled from the top of pitch 3. We left new rappel sling at the top of pitch 3 and pitch 1.

The 5.10c moves on pitch 2 are well protected by bolts and offer very good climbing.

Tick season is here, I brought one of the nasty critters home.

Jordy Shepherd
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.PeakAlpine.com


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