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Sunday, April 10, 2011

[MCR] New anchor for Sea of Vapours

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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Was up on the Trophy Wall again today with fellow guide Kris Irwin. Before leaving we replaced the old/rusty bolt anchor and the top of Postcriptum (2 stainless bolts with hangers and rings in vertical orientation). The ice was in great shape and the rest of the route appears to be the same.
Caution: We were chased away by falling ice today. There is a lot of fragile ice on the wall that just needs a strong wind to set it free. It seems to be coming from Replicant and Terminator  but there was little shelter to be found anywhere above the alcove. These same winds are also moving a lot of snow.

John Freeman
ACMG – Assistant Alpine Guide
offroute1@gmail.com
http://offroute-again.blogspot.com/