A Friend and I climbed Polar Circus on Dec 3rd. Overall the climb is not bad for this time of year, however a few of the pitches are total soakers and I would definitely recommend gore-tex. Several of the upper pitches are quite chandeliered and do not have the best protection, with the crux being the "Ribbon pitch" with steep ice and difficult protection for about 10m, but good fairly easy steps.
Of more significant note was the condition of many of the fixed bolted anchors on route. Its been quite a few years since I have climbed this route, but I was fairly appalled at the condition of many of the bolted anchors. Most of these anchors are composed of a length of chain sandwiched to the rock via a few washers and a 3/8 bolt, many are rusted and bent.
My suspicion of these anchors was later confirmed when my friend leaned back to rappel and one of the 3/8 inch BOLTS SHEARED RIGHT OFF!!!!! The bolt looked a bit dubious, slightly bent, slightly rusted, but I had rationalized it as "come on, when does a 3/8 bolt fail?" Well they do!!
After this experience and further checking out many more of the bolted anchors on the way down, I would continue to be suspect of several of the anchors as many of the bolts are bent and showing signs of wear. Remember it is almost impossible to assess the true strength of a bolt just by the way it looks from the outside. I would only 100% trust the newest anchors that obviously have new stainless (shiny) steel bolts and chains, V threads are always a good option if the anchor looks dubious. Also many of these fixed anchors are very hard to reach right now and sometimes getting to the anchor feels like the real crux of the route.
Have fun and play safe out there. Craig McGee
Craig McGee
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide