Climbed Coire Dubh today in increasingly warm and windy conditions.
The ice itself is in great shape, although a tad brittle at times. The main issue on the climb right now is the hard wind slabs between the pitchs of ice climbing. These slabs overlie a weak base of facets and careful evaluation of avalanche conditions is required to pass through these sections. It would be very concerning to have a party above you on the route, as even a small slide will funnel straight down the climb.
As temperatures warm up over the next few days, this climb may not be a good choice. Rockfall will certainly increase (as the surrounding bowl has a light dusting of snowfall lingering) and the possibility for slab avalanches could increase.
Have fun out there and Happy Holidays!
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Kananaskis Country Public Safety