Climbed on the West end yesterday and most of the face routes were dry by mid afternoon. All cracks and chimney features looked wet and some had snow/ice in them.
The snowline was about 150 meters below the cliff in the morning and not that much had melted on our descent. Snow depth was up to our boot tops on the way over to the West end and knee deep in places on the backside after topping out. A pole was nice to have.
As we walked under the Balrog area we noticed a block about the size of a beer fridge embedded in the trail like a huge cobblestone. It was spooky to think that it didn't hit anything and break up as it fell from the mountain. Spring is a good time to be extra sure of your holds before you commit to them, especially when there is so much moisture around. Expect increased rockfall with the melt.
The remaining snow will melt quickly on the front side once the sun comes out...hope that's soon!!
Enjoy your weekend!
Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide