[MCR] Vancouver island- Mt. Arrowsmith-Up the Nose and down the Judges:)

Climbed the Nose on Mt. Arrowsmith today and descended the Judges route.
Lots of snow from around 1200m on the west side and 1400 on the south side.Good
travelling after a clear night but some interesting moves around drifts, cornices
and moats on the "Bumps" and the "Nose". Definetely want an axe, gaiters and
crampons. We didn't use the crampons but if we had been up earlier they would
have been needed. Rock pitches on the Nose were mostly snow free.

Roads in really good shape.

Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
laristan@telus.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies, Mt Athabasca

Guided the AA Col on Mt Athabasca today with my fellow guide, Pat Delaney. An overnight freeze provided good travel, overall, on a supportive crust. We descended the North Glacier "Ramp" route. The new serac at the east end of the ramp looks like it may have more calving to do (it's calved twice in the last 3-4 weeks).

Other parties climbed the Silverhorn today, and Skyladder on Mt Andromeda (I think, we saw them on the approach and descent). Also saw tracks going up the Boundary Glacier, for A2 I assume.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

Mountain Guide

www.barryblanchard.ca

www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] South Coast Range ~ Mt. Ipsoot

Hoping this finds Everyone keeping well and having an excellent start to Summer.
 
I spent the day travelling over a fair amount of glaciated and alpine terrain on the Ipsoot Massif just west and a little north of Pemberton.
 
Coverage on north-facing glaciers average anywhere from 130cm to 300cm+ depending upon elevation and site characteristics. I was a little surprised to see a good many crevasses opening already. Sagging bridges were noticeable and there has been plenty of natural cornice-fall. Some cornices are barely hanging in there so be very cautious if you find yourself anywhere near these features.
 
The temperatures were warm in the alpine today and the sun is packing quite a 'punch' these days.
 
Most aspects and elevations were suffering from the effects of the warmth and the skiing became quite soft and a little 'sticky' reasonably early in the day. The best ski quality was actually southeast facing high alpine terrain during early evening hours. Once the sun, that had previously baked these slopes, had turned farther west much later in the day, the snow surface here began to gently cool and refreeze, and offered some pleasant and fast skiing. Good fun.
 
Most of the current avalanche activity was isolated to the top 20-25cm of wet snow producing mostly loose-snow avalanches. A distant observation of a high, steep easterly aspect revealed evidence of a larger slab avalanche but I am uncertain about when it released ~ likely during one of our recent clear-weather & warm spells.
 
It's been a long skiing season. Enjoy the sun, sand, surf, and sandals Everyone. Have a great Summer!
 
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Ski Guide
 
 
 

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[MCR] Lake Louise Group - Haddo Peak and Mt Aberdeen

In the last 24 hours, a large sz 2.5 pulled out to blue glacial ice on the NE side of Haddo Peak. It came out of the bowl formed by Haddo and Sheol Mtn. Hard to tell, but it may have been cornice triggered from above. The crown line is 1+ metre. The debris ran a good 600m, very close to the waterfall ice climb, "The Tease".
 
Sags are starting to show on the Aberdeen Glacier, and serac debris was noted coming from the climber's far-right side on Mt Aberdeen.

The warmer night temperatures, accompanied with localized intense showers over the last couple of days, are keeping the snowpack from getting a solid freeze around Lake Louise.  Heads up on snow routes over the next few days until things really solidify.
 
Chris Gooliaff
ASG / ARG

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[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Coastal Mountains issued June 24th

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Coastal Mountains issued June 24th The cool weather pattern we experienced in these past weeks is starting to change. The outlook is for a more stable weather. One good thing about the late spring weather we have had, is that the travel is holding up on the glaciers and in the alpine. The snow pack is holding out pretty well, covering the glaciers and providing corridors over slide alder on some coastal approaches. Reports vary from deep post holing, to fairly decent ankle deep wet snow, to perfect firm steps in hard crust. The daylight arrives early, and if the nights are clear, the conditions can be perfect for fast travel. The prolonged spring means that one can expect hazards associated with cornices, wet snow avalanches and rockfalls as the temperature rise. The south aspects are drying out, and in the past days we haven't had too much precipitation so if we get some sun some areas will start to dry up pretty quick. Paul Berntsen ACMG mountain guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 24, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 24, 2010 We are slowly inching our way into summer in the Rocky and Columbia Mountains. That said, it continues to be whitish out there with snowlines still reaching relatively low elevations, especially on shaded aspects. On a drive over the Rogers Pass yesterday there was snow on the bivy spots in the Hermit and Sir Donald areas. Routes facing the sun seemed like they could be climbable - it may be worthwhile checking out Tupper W Ridge or Uto SW Ridge but be prepared for snow on ledges and patches of wet rock. The west facing routes on MacDonald are getting close but I wonder about rockfall out of the gullies on that mountain with the amount of snow still up there. It's hard to know what snow travel conditions are like as there have been no reports coming in from this area. Continuing on my drive over the Kicking Horse Pass there looked to still be deep snow in places like the Saddleback in the Lake Louise area. Upper elevations were very white. A post from the Bugaboos indicates a lot of snow remains at the hut level and on the peaks. Reports from climbers indicate people have been trying for snow and ice routes in the Rockies. If one starts early and moves fast to finish mid-day, and is lucky enough to get a clear night with a bit of a freeze, then conditions are good. If there is no freeze or the start is too late then conditions are no good. Travel on snow sounds better in the Columbia Icefields area than further south around Lake Louise. Skyladder, Athabasca N Face/Silverhorn/AA Col routes have all been climbed on cold mornings this week; Victoria N Ridge was sloppy and a group turned back from that route on a warm day. Hazards will crop up very quickly with warming daytime temperatures with wet snow avalanches, cornice falls and rockfall all having been observed recently. In the lower Bow Valley the rock climbing venues are in generally good shape. Louis is still snowy as is the descent gully off Castle (eg Brewer's). Eisenhower Tower is good to go. A decent forecast makes it sound like a rock climbing weekend for those who like to sleep in and possibly a sprint up a Columbia Icefield classic for those who like to see the rosy fingered dawn from high up on a mountain. Mark Klassen Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Castle Tower

Climbed Castle Tower yesterday up the right and down the 25 M. raps.
Good conditions. Still a fairly large snowpatch in the gulley but it is
melting quickly. It would require an ice axe if frozen but we did not use
one. Just a little bit of snow to cross on the north side below the Dragons
Back. We had rock shoes on still and were fine.
There are two ring bolt hangers missing from the second rap station if you
go.

Brad White
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] North Cascades and South Coast

Spent the past 2 weeks wandering in the Washington Cascades and South Coast mountains trying to find the climbing. The weather has been pretty cool lately so I doubt there have been significant changes in conditions.

In addition to several days of cragging in Leavenworth and Squamish, we climbed the following:

June 12: Prusik Peak S Face, Enchantment Range. Snow level starts at 5000 ft (Snow Lake) and travel was OK even in the afternoon with a decent packed trail from lots of traffic in the area. Route was snow free but crux pitches were a bit wet. Old school 5.9.

June 17: S Early Winter Spire S Ridge, Washington Pass. Snow is at road level (5000 ft). Good travel. We had about 10 cm of new snow overnight and a size 2 wet snow avalanche cleaned out the SW Gully route as we were standing beside it contemplating whether to go up it. Climbed the rock route instead in the mist and wet and it was snow free. Then descended the SW Gully after doing avalanche control to clean the remaining snow out. Some thin snow over rock in the gully.

June 19: Sharkfin SE Ridge, Boston Basin, N Cascades National Park. Snow starts at 5000 ft and it is pretty punchy in this area above 6000 ft. Slow travel. Route has snow on the upper section which slows things down a bit. Major glide crack avalanches on steep rock slabs in this area.

June 22: Tricouni Peak N Ridge, South Coast (near Squamish). One of the creeks has eroded the road at about 3500 ft. It was impassable for us in the Tacoma but a spade, pick axe and some imagination might get you through it. Snow starts just over 4000 ft. Good travel all day. The route is in winter shape with steep snow and glide cracks on the traverse from the col to the N ridge. The ridge is mostly snow free. The descent is a bit tricky to regain the S ridge after bypassing the steep section, again with steep snow, cornices and glide cracks to negotiate. Foggggy in there yesterday.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

mark@alpinism.com

www.alpinism.com

403-760-3337

[MCR] Wapta Icefields - Bow hut area

Hello,

Just returned from four days around the Bow hut.

There is currently a little snow on the approach to the hut which is melting fast. Expect a few extra minutes of post holing to reach the hut.

Sunday and Monday mornings had reasonable freezes which allowed us to climb Mt Gordon, Mt Olive and Mt St Nick. There is still plenty of snow on the glaciers, however, it was turning to mashed potatoes by 8am on sunny aspects and lasting a until about 10am elsewhere. Plenty of avalanches were observed from solar aspects in the afternoon. This morning cloudy skies and +5C meant no freeze at the hut and light rain shower came through at mid day.

Expect good conditions with an early start and a freeze or lots of knee deep post holing with out.

Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

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[MCR] Castle Mountain - Ultra Brewers

Headed up Ultra Brewers yesterday. The route was dry from bottom to top. At the top, small snow patches were encountered while walking to the base of the upper cliffs, and one soft snow patch was crossed when returning towards the hut. Good kick-steps could be made across all snow that we crossed. As Mike Trehearne mentioned in a previous post, the approach/descent gully by the ACC hut was snow-free.
 
Of another note, I was picking ticks off of myself while belaying my partner during the day. They seem to love the sunny, grassy slopes that the goats frequent, so do a check at the end of the day...
 
Chris Gooliaff
ASG/ARG

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[MCR] Rockies, Columbia Icefield

Tried to post this earlier but we had some troubles with the MCR, for what its worth:

My fellow guide, Sharon Wood, and I spent the last several days guiding in the Columbia Icefields:

May 16th we climbed the Southeast ridge of Mt Wilcox. An ice axe is good to have in hand as there is still a fair amount of snow up there.

May 17th we climbed Boundary Peak from the Athabasca/Boundary col. We gained the col via the lower North Athabasca Glacier and ice tongue, great travel on the glacier at present and little snow left on the rock ridge leading to the top. Grand bumsliding on the northwest slope descent.

May 18th we ascended the AA Col route on Athabasca. Perfect cramponing on the 'magic crust' in the morning, good boot top penetration on our descent of the North Ramp. The "new" serac threatening the east end of the Ramp has calved twice in the last 2-3 weeks. We scampered under it in a couple of minutes then gave its runout a wide berth. Great conditions overall.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

Mountain Guide

www.barryblanchard.ca

www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Columbia Icefields & Castle Mountain

Hey all,

Two days at the ice fields last weekend, both on Athabasca.

First day we spent playing around down low on the on the north glacier below the Boundary Col. Still quite a bit of snow coverage in there, the deepest of which we found was just over 1m. We played around on the exposed ice ribs on the bottom climbers left at the toe of the glacier as refresher day, as well as found a good sight for crevasse rescue and some steep ice climbing practice just above the toe where it transitions into flatter terrain above a few hundred meters above on the climbers left. The snow stayed reasonably supportive even in the afternoon heat. 30cm – boot penetration at the most for us.

Second day up the Silverhorn.  +2*C in the parking lot at 0400am. A descent freeze and a track in place made for easy travel up to the base of the route. Wasn't quite good enough to completely support a person's weight on the surface until we we're above 2900m's. Below that boot pen was no more than about 20cm's. The route itself was snow top to bottom ranging in depth from about 10-60cm's. Managed to get ice anchors the whole way with the exception of one T-Slot a little more than half way up. Good supportive step-kicking for 90% or the route and not too much front pointing required. We came down the AA Col, good travel down and out to the toe of the ice (thanks for the track Sharon/Barry)

Last day did the Goat Plateau Traverse on Castle Mountain, west to east. The approach to the hut was snow free until we hit the plateau. Lots of runoff flowing  up there right now, and plenty of patches of snow still laying around near the hut. Wouldn't be any issues with getting water. Few patches of steep-ish snow on the way across the plateau, but soft enough that you could kick in really supportive steps. Bass Buttress, Brewers Buttress, and Eisenhower all looked dry and good to go.

That's it for now, hope everyone's out there getting after it!

Mike Trehearne

ACMG - Assistant Alpine Guide

m_trehearne@hotmail.com

+1.403.679.808

[MCR] Canadian Rockies: Skyladder, Mt. Andromeda, Columbia Icefields (July 21, 2010)

Skyladder, Mt. Andromeda, Columbia Icefields, Canadian Rockies (July 21, 2010)

Last time I climbed Skyladder was 16 years ago and as many are aware, it is now a different style of route. Most of the permanent ice down low has disappeared, so it now needs to be done early season when there is sufficient snowpack to fill in the various rock gullies that have replaced the missing ice.

The longest day of the year meant an early start to take advantage of the good, yet short-lasting freeze. We left the parking lot at 2am (+5 Celsius) in order to maximize our time on frozen snow. Despite the short almost-summer-solstice night, the glacier recovered with a thick melt-freeze crust that offered supportive walking. 

Conditions have changed significantly since friends skied Skyladder two weeks ago. Where they found a winter snowpack with layers of concern, we found a very hard bed surface exposed by recent wet avalanches that have scoured the lower portion of the route. Debris has filled most of the bergshrund so it was easily stepped across on the right side. After a two rope-lengths of cramponing up squeaky neve, the snow surface eventually relented and then allowed for good, full steps all the way to the summit ridge.

By the time (9am), we finished the rappel on the east ridge descent, the snow on that side (from the bottom of the rap to the AA col) had fully lost its freeze. Probably would have been better to be there an hour earlier and glad we were not an hour later.

In general, the weather has been better to the north compared to the front ranges and main ranges around the Bow Valley. Snow coverage on the glaciers and ice faces seems above average but early starts and solid freezes are necessary to avoid tedious travel, avalanches and rock fall.

Sean Isaac

ACMG Alpine Guide

[MCR] Bugaboos Update

A quick report from the Bugaboos.  As of June 19^th there is about 1.5m of snow at Applebee Dome, half that at the Conrad Kain Hut.  A few big trees across the trail, and lots of bear sign.  The hut will be officially opened by the July 1^st long weekend.

<<Bugaboo-Crescent from Hut.jpg>> <<Bug-SP Col from Applebee.jpg>>

Jeff Volp
Area Supervisor, Columbia Area
Parks and Protected Areas
Ministry of Environment

Kootenay-Boundary
250-489-8560

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Coastal Mountains issued June 17th

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Coastal Mountains issued June 17th Cool and unsettled weather continues to linger over the South Coast. Generally light precip amounts, which has been falling in the form of snow on the higher peaks. SOUTH COAST Numerous breaks in the weather last week enabled some trips into alpine areas. In the Joffre area, the conditions varied from punching through rotten snow around treeline to good steps in fresh dry snow on higher elevations Early morning crusts would last into mid morning at low elevations and all day on higher N aspects. The skiing is good as well, smooth surfaces and glaciers are nicely filled in. CENTRAL AND NORTH COAST; These areas have been a drier than the South Coast areas. The high elevation areas and the glaciated terrain is slow to transform into summer. The glaciers have good coverage left over from winter. WEEKEND OUTLOOK The weather will dictate the mountain conditions this weekend. Although the continuing cool and damp weather is preserving the snow higher up, the sun is very powerful when it comes out. The sun would contribute to triggering rock falls, wet avalanches, glide crack avalanches, cornice falls and weaken the bridges over crevasses. The daylight hours are about as long as they get, If there is a clear night then the early morning traveling conditions will be as good as they can get too! Good thing is with all the cool weather the mosquitoes aren't out. Maybe it's be a good time for rock climbing on the dry side of the range,.. Pavilion, Copper mountain, (Terrace), Bella Coola Valley, or the old standby's Washington Pass, Leavenworth, Penticton. Paul Berntsen ACMG Mtn Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 17th, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 17th, 2010 It has been another cool and wet week along the East Slope of the Rockies and a little nicer along the Continental Divide and in the Columbias. It is presently cool, calm and low overcast in Canmore, O'Hara and the Bugaboos but sunny in Revelstoke! Information from the Bugaboos is that you could walk on dry ground almost to the hut but then it would be ski touring without skis:) Snow fell to about the bottom of the Snowpatch overnight but Crescent towers would be good to go when the sun hit it. The hut is not officially open and the bridges aren't in yet. Mt. Revelstoke park has seasonal snow still on the ground at 1600m. Steep south facing terrain in the Columbias is dry in most places to around treeline. Along the divide in the Rockies it is still wintry above 2400m and there is still lots of snow in the trees in places as low as 2000m. Climbing Mt. Schaeffer yesterday at O'Hara, the North Ridge had as much snow as I have ever seen on it. Some cool climbing on snow aretes where you are usually walking added a nice spice to the route. Cornices along the ridge were big, fat and wet looking-SCARY. Several days of cool temps after last weekends heat wave mean there are some appealing looking ice dribbles here and there in the alpine. This weekend could be a good time for some well planned and well timed exploration into the alpine. If it cooled down and you were moving fast it could be good. I would be very cautious about any mixed alpine faces but some ridges may offer wintry climbing without wintry temps. One observation from the Columbia Icefields was that the snowpack was still layered in the upper 50 cms and there is still potential for slab avalanches in the alpine there with daytime heating or big rain events. There is certainly lots of snow everywhere above 2500m and there is still a cycle of intense rockfall, cornice fall and wet slides to come if and when it warms up. Melting above 2500m has been slow but there is still that spring hazard of snow over running creeks in the big talus and scree slopes. Do not fall into one of those nightmares. Talus slopes at treeline and above are also nasty as this snow rarely freezes solid and it is a good place to REALLY bang up you legs. Rivers and creeks are coming up. If the monsoon ends east slope rock climbing and scrambling will get good quickly. Glacier travel will be good with a freeze. Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mount Athabasca - N Face Bypass

Went up the N Face Bypass and down the AA Col today.

Travel up to the basin below the face was excellent with a supportive crust overlain by a dusting of new snow. Great step-kicking all the way up the face to the traverse. The traverse was rather snowy, and the Scottish gully back up to the ridge crest had a metre of snow on the ice at the top. Digging was needed to get ice screws. The final ridge to the summit felt wintery with little rock showing along the ridge-crest, and small cornices on either side of the ridge.

The AA Col was in good shape with snow top to bottom, making for good step-kicking as well. Some small rocks were starting to move with the direct afternoon sun. The supportive crust finally gave in around 2700m in the afternoon.

Chris Gooliaff
ASG/ARG

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[MCR] Rockies-Lake O'Hara Conditions June 15th, 2010

 Still a snowy world above 2400m at O'Hara. Most trails have snow in the forest and travelling on the talus is horrendous unless things are frozen solid.

 

The big snow and ice routes like Lefroy, Glacier and Cathedral look great. With a good freeze it would be as good as they get. Continuous snow from Lake Oesa to Abbotts Pass. Ringrose, Hungabee look horrendous. Victoria would feel very sporty with big cornices and snow everywhere along the ridge. Grassi Ridge is dry with snowpatches on the descent.

 

Dug a snowprofile at 2600m on a 40+degree North slope today below the Yukness/Ringrose col.  2 meters of snow with no weak layers stuck well to the glacier ice.

 

There was lots of relatively small avalanche activity during the past weekends heat and some during the rain. No big fracture lines visible anywhere but I am guessing there is still one more big avalanche cycle possible during the next real heat wave. Lots of rockfall and wet sloughs are a certainty when the sun comes out.

 

It ain't summer yet up here at 2000m. Lightning, 4 degrees C and snowing at 2pm today.

 

Buses start running june 18th I believe.

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

laristan@telus.net

[MCR] FOUND Red climbing shoes at Lake Louise

Found a pair of red/orange Free Climbing shoes yesterday at back of the lake.  Almost look like a pair from a rental fleet.  Give me a call to claim. James 403 609 1758

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 10, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 10, 2010 Cool wet weather has persisted through the week and consequently alpine climbing cannot really be recommended. Stay away from anything big for a while yet. Poor travel, avalanche and rockfall potential and generally terrible conditions are the norm. Snow lines and freezing levels have been hovering around the treeline elevation and loose wet avalanches have been reported. Fresh snow, melting snow, isothermal snow to ground, or deeper winter snow with medium foot penetration, the common link is SNOW. In general, there is slightly more snow than usual at the higher elevations for this time of year. This might make a higher elevation ski trip a good possibility for the weekend, but watch for lots of avalanche potential when the sun comes out and it begins to melt. Lower elevation crags like Yamnuska, EEOR , Back of the Lake, Revelstoke or east of Jasper are mostly dry with a few snow patches remaining on the sheltered sides of the higher ones, and lots of good sport climbing and multi pitch climbing is being done. The forecast for Saturday looks good with a ridge of high pressure and warming temperatures. A weak trough may bring some unsettled conditions later on Sunday. Again, when the sun comes out and the temperatures warm up anything that is subject to avalanche or rockfall potential should be avoided. Brad White IFMGA Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] N Cascades; Mt Baker

Finally, a nice day!

This morning was looking pretty clear, so a trip to Coleman Glacier on Mt Baker was in order. The trail had spotty snow to the old Kulshan Cabin site, and solid snow above 4700ft. The crust was firm and held up into mid morning. At noon, around 7000ft, a ski boot would sink in about 30cm. This made the travelling pretty good as we were on skis anyway, The skiing was beautiful smooth corn. The crevasses looked nicely filled in, the glide cracks at the toe of the glacier were starting to widen.

A piece of ice fell of the cliffs on the N Face, (around 9300ft), rumbled down, entraining snow, and creating a dust cloud that rolled over the approach to the N Face. The debris from the avalanche came very close to the usual approach, and would of smoked anyone taking a "high Line" to the start of the route.

On the upper reaches of the mountain, a moderate West wind was observed, blowing spindrift off the ridgelines. The sky became overcast in early afternoon, and off to the west the next system was sending mid level clouds onto the coast.

Paul Berntsen,
Mountain Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] N Cascades; Mt Baker

Finally, a nice day! This morning was looking pretty clear, so a trip to Coleman Glacier on Mt Baker was in order. The trail had spotty snow to the old Kulshan Cabin site, and solid snow above 4700ft. The crust was firm and held up into mid morning. At noon, around 7000ft, a ski boot would sink in about 30cm. This made the travelling pretty good as we were on skis anyway, The skiing was beautiful smooth corn. The crevasses looked nicely filled in, the glide cracks at the toe of the glacier were starting to widen.

A piece of ice fell of the cliffs on the N Face, (around 9300ft), rumbled down, entraining snow, and creating a dust cloud that rolled over the approach to the N Face. The debris from the avalanche came very close to the usual approach, and would of smoked anyone taking a "high Line" to the start of the route.

On the upper reaches of the mountain, a moderate West wind was observed, blowing spindrift off the ridgelines. The sky became overcast in early afternoon, and off to the west the next system was sending mid level clouds onto the coast.

Paul Berntsen,
Mountain Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Wilcox peak and north to Jasper

Went up Wilcox peak yesterday as it was forecast for rain and wanted
a peak fairly straight forward. I have been up here many times this
time of year and it seems above 2300 metres things seem more snowy
than usual. Wilcox was quite snow covered for most of the upper
route, making for a nice climb on snow. Travel on snow was not great
as there was not a good freeze and it got quite "punchy" where it was
thigh deep or less (I measured it a number of times!)

Still seems like a lot of snow in Wilcox pass and most depressions
are still snowbound. Up to 10cm on Wilcox over the day and new snow
was noted on most of the peaks in the area.

Driving home to Jasper took a few shots of the peaks in the area..

Peter Amann

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide
pamann@incentre.net

[MCR] Moraine Lake area and Castle Part 2

(See attached file: Perren Route.JPG)(See attached file: Wenkchemna
Pass.JPG)

Marc Ledwidge
MG

[MCR] Grassi lakes climbing area

Two routes at the Grassi Lakes climbing area have been closed by Conservation Officers due to nesting owls.  The routes are “Memphis” and “You ain’t nothing but a hang dog”.

We will send out another update once the Owls have left for the season. 

 

Thanks

 

Mike Koppang

Public Safety Specialist

Kananaskis Country AB

403-678-5508 x223

403-678-7045 (cell)

 

[MCR] Rockies, Mts Andromeda and Athabasca

Guided on the middle Practice Gully on Mt Andromeda, June 1st. Some post holing on the edges of the snow pack and glacier, but the night was cold enough and the travel on the glacier supportive and surprisingly good. The route is in good shape. The bergshrund is mostly filled in,   but still required some soft steps over the void to pull over. We got ice screw anchors for all of the 7 or 8 pitches that we climbed (we tuckered out on the cold hard ice one pitch from the top and rapped the route off of abalakovs), had to dig through a half meter of well bonded snow in the middle of the route to get screws, but it was nice to have some step kicking, rather than ice climbing, there. Cornices ring the top of the route, but I trusted that I could get through on climber's left. Those cornices will start to fail when it gets hot again, if not before.

June 3rd we approached the Silverhorn on Mt Athabasca but turned around at the Nunatak -poor weather and we were moving slow. There is several hundred meters of tedious wet post holing around the little cliffs and horizontal morraine crest on the approach. Travel on the glacier was supportive and good, little evidence of crevasses as yet. As per usual I set a track low across the glacier while heading to the Nunatak and of interest is that the serac that calved from the near end of the North Ramp (May 29 or 30?) over ran the high trail left by other parties but didn't make it to my low trail.

I was happy to be gone from there for 8 hours when my fellow guide, Peter Amann, witnessed an avalanche come from half way up the Silverhorn and run to the Nunatak. Sounds like it was a slab avalanche triggered by rain, Peter?

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

Mountain Guide

www.barryblanchard.ca

www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Yamnuska

Climbed on the West end yesterday and most of the face routes were dry by mid afternoon.  All cracks and chimney features looked wet and some had snow/ice in them. 

 

The snowline was about 150 meters below the cliff in the morning and not that much had melted on our descent.  Snow depth was up to our boot tops on the way over to the West end and knee deep in places on the backside after topping out.  A pole was nice to have.

 

As we walked under the Balrog area we noticed a block about the size of a beer fridge embedded in the trail like a huge cobblestone.  It was spooky to think that it didn't hit anything and break up as it fell from the mountain.  Spring is a good time to be extra sure of your holds before you commit to them, especially when there is so much moisture around.  Expect increased rockfall with the melt.

 

The remaining snow will melt quickly on the front side once the sun comes out...hope that's soon!!

 

Enjoy your weekend!

 

Mike Stuart

ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide

 

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Coastal Mountains issued June 3, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Coastal Mountains issued June 3, 2010 Cool wet weather predominated this past week. With the longer days snowpack is consolidating, and foot travel should improve in alpine areas. CENTRAL COAST; This area received less moisture than the South Coast. SOUTH COAST AND N. CASCADES; The east side of the ranges have seen the snowline retreat to around treeline. The west side still has a snow to below treeline. Despite the past week being unsettled there has been reports of both successful rock climbing and alpine climbing trips. The snow conditions are improving, although cornices are remain a threat, as do glide cracks and bergshrunds. WEEKEND OUTLOOK; The weather forecast is looking better than it has for past couple of weeks. At this time it looks like there may be some convective clouds lingering in the mountains, but a much better outlook than in the past weeks! Paul Berntsen ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 3, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 3, 2010 A week of generally wet and unsettled weather has left the Rocky and Interior mountains in a bit of a soggy state. Last weekend's nasty upslope storm coated the eastern slopes in snow, and then the mid-week rains soaked the western areas, leaving 10-15 cm of snow right down to treeline. Rivers are rising as we hit June, and the real spring melt and runoff should be going full bore anytime now. Just need to add some heat. Good conditions for alpine climbing or high elevation glacier skiing require a freeze, which typically means a cold and clear night. Clouds and rain prevent the snowpack from freezing, and in areas with less than 1 meter of snow - expect some wet post holing. This is probably the case near glacier toes right now, so start to be on the watch for hidden crevasses in these areas where the snow is shallow and wet. A deep and more supportive snowpack remains above 2800 m, and if you happen to be lucky enough to catch a good freeze . . . conditions could be awesome. The eastern regions (Yamnuska, Ghost River) got coated in snow last weekend right down to treeline. Although its melting slowly, and the sun exposed cliffs are clear - expect snow to linger in shady areas and on backside descents. The cliffs themselves have lots of wet streaks, so pick a sunny day and stick to routes on open faces - rather then chimneys and gullies that are bound to have water running down them. Low elevation sport climbing will be good if it ever gets warm, and both Saturday and Sunday look to pretty good. Temperatures should be about the same in BC and in Alberta this weekend. Just keep an eye on the water levels when you're in a canyon - flash flooding is common this time of year. Keep your gear on the high ground, and expect wet feet when boulder hopping home. The forecast remains unsettled for Friday, when a brief clearing should give a bit of sun for the weekend with highs of 14 degrees - not awesome, but considering the recent few weeks - an improvement. Following that it looks like more poor weather on the way for early next week. So, its June and the mountains are going to shed alot of material this month: winter snowpack, cornices, rocks, and high water. Keep a close eye on the forecast, time your missions to catch the good conditions and bail when things get sloppy. Grant Statham ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Athabasca avalanches

Spent the day today on the lower north glacier do some training with
a large group. snow was quite mushy with little signs of a freeze
overnight. Snowpack was quite mushy where the snowpack was 1 metre or
less. Difficult travel.....

Rainy in the am but clearing later with moderate to strong gusty
winds at upper elevations. A few centimeters of new snow on the rocks
above 2600 metres. Higher up on the big peaks there is a lot of new
snow. There is certainly more snow on Athabasca now than last year at
the same time, and more than a week ago.

We from a 3rd parth of an ice avalanche off the smaller seracs on
the right of the Silverhorn which are visible in the picture. this
was supposedly a few days ago.

As well at almost exactly 500pm a few of us witnessed a good size
2-2.5 avalanche off of the Silverhorn route. Good air-born powder
cloud and debris to the bottom of the Nunatak left of Silverhorn.
Fracture line is about 2/3rds the way up the face.

Looks like some other rain triggered activity here and there on the
drive back to Jasper.

Peter Amann.

Peter Amann
Jeremy Mackenzie
pamann@incentre.net

[MCR] Mt Columbia

Hello,

Nick Sharp, the Mountain Skills Semester and I just returned from Mt Columbia (May 28-June 2). Our trip consisted of approaching via the Saskatchewan glacier to the trench, summiting Mt Columbia and exiting via the Athabasca glacier. The snow line on the Saskatchewan glacier is at about 2200m so expect to be carrying skis for a long way. The snow depths however, quickly increase to well over 3 meters. Unsettled weather for the past 6 days provided a variety of white out conditions, about 15 cm of snow, and temperatures ranging from -11 to +15. On Sunday 10 - 15cm of snow fell at The Trench and was accompanied by moderate NE winds. We were expecting to find wind slab on the east face of Columbia but none was found and we were able to summit with perfect step kicking conditions.
Yesterday, with an early start, we descended the Athabasca glacier from a camp at 2800 meters. With a marginal freeze (-2.5C at 4:30am) we decended through snow flurries and into light rain by 2500 meters. I can't say it was an enjoyable experience. We were able to ski right to the toe of the Athabasca, which was a quick and easy way to finish the trip.

There was a fair bit of snow on Mt Athabasca and Mt Andromeda but with a good freeze and a caution for isolated wind slabs I think you could find good climbing conditions.

Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide

Nick Sharp
ACMG/UIAGM Mountain Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

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