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Wednesday, April 30, 2008
[MCR] Meathooks area - Broken Glass... a heads up!
Just thought I'd pass on the word of caution for you keeners who have been burning laps on Meathooks and Stormtroopers up at Grassi Lakes. I was there tonight with a buddy and was not really psyched at all to find a broken shard of beer bottle stuffed into one of the key pockets just above half height on Meathooks. I had a real good look when I went cleaned the route to see if I could find any others, but nothing turned up - Anyways, if you value the current orientation of your fingers, you might consider being overly static between moves, and really having a good feel round before pulling down on the buckets up there. Like I say I think I got it all... but just in case.
On a side note... if any of you out there happen to know the charmer that did this, I'd love to get a hold of his/her name. my e-mail addy is below.
Happy trails folks,
Mike.
Mike Trehearne
Association of Canadian Mountain Guides - Assistant Rock Guide.
PO Box 8212 - Canmore Alberta, Canada. T1W 2T9.
E-Mail: m_trehearne@hotmail.com
Mobile: +1.403.679.8080.
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Monday, April 28, 2008
[MCR] Fairy Meadows (Adaments) April 18-26
Weather;
We experienced very wintery conditions all week. Earlier in the week it was clear and cold (-20) with 40 cm of new snow. Mid week saw continued cool temps and unsettled weather which brought a few cm's of new snow and moderate to strong winds. There was widespread wind effect with still excellent skiing to be found in sheltered areas. A final storm brought up to 60cm of new snow with deep trail breaking.
Snowpack;
The snow pack has 40-60 cm of light density snow overlying a well settled snow pack of 260 to 350cm plus. Mid pack has several laminated crusts. The April 13 crust 60-80 cm down is very discernable but seems to be bonding well. The February 26 surface hoar deep instability is still present producing Hard to Very Hard sudden planar results in deep shear/compression tests. In most areas this layer of concern seemed to be deteriorating with a rounding and flattening of the crystals. Yet in some isolated areas the surface hoar was preserved with upright striated crystals. Thus caution on this layer with either large loads (cornice/serac fall- intense daytime warming and in shallow snow areas). We suspect buried windslab, isolated soft and hard slab as well as lee loaded pockets associated with the latest storm snow. Moist snow turning to crusts on steep solar and at lower elevations.
Stability & Hazard;
Stability was rated good for most of the week in the Alpine, Treeline and Below Treeline and deteriorating with daytime warming, added snow load and wind. Since the latest new snow accumulation was above critical amounts and there was wind and rapid loading associated with this latest storm, we suspect stability to deteriorate to Fair in the Alpine and Treeline. Hazard is considerable.
Avalanche Activity;
Apart from Friday, cooler temps and rapid settlement dominated the week and we saw little avalanche activity. Of note was a size 2 skier accidental on the last day. A perhaps over enthusiastic skier skied a steep NE facing moraine feature which was wind loaded, planar and shallow. The skier was able to ski out of the avalanche which propagated about 60meters was 40-60cms deep and ran for 100 meters or so. Other than that a serac triggered slab of size 2.5 and few small solar triggered avalanches were seen. Mostly good to excellent skiing and good to fair visibility and travel. Cheers!
Eric Dumerac
Assistant Ski/Alpine Guide
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Sunday, April 27, 2008
[MCR] Yamnuska
ledges, but most of the rock dry, 3rd pitch dripping with water so we
traversed into A route. Rappelled the route. Several other parties
climbing on the east end today. The Bowl area looks like the best bet
right now, all things considered.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Saturday, April 26, 2008
[MCR] Miner's Couloir, Canmore, Rockies East Slope.
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
[MCR] Big Eddy Creek, Monashees, April 20-23
Revelstoke in the Monashee Mountains.
20-30 cm HST on the April 13 crust, bonding well. A windy day on April 21st
formed windslab and there was substantial wind transport. Wind affected snow
on the Big Eddy Glacier / Schrund Peak on April 22nd, but still very skiable.
Temperatures were cold, -18C when we flew in on the morning of April 20th.
Daytime highs of -9C, even with strong solar radiation on April 22nd. Still
winter in the alpine!
Very little avalanche activity noted, but watch out when it warms up!
Jordy Shepherd
Mountain Guide
www.PeakAlpine.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Coastal Conditions Aprill 14-22
This is a overview of conditions experienced on an Assistant Ski Guide Exam,
April 14-22 based out of Pemberton. We traveled throughout the Duffy Lake
area and the Whistler / Blackcomb backcountry.
For the most part it was a chilly week for April. Light southwest flow
brought fluctuating freezing levels from valley bottom to 1500m April 15-17.
During this time up to 10cm fell accompanied by light to moderate wind. Five
to 15cm of low density snow fell on the 18th due to a cold front.
Temperatures plummeted after the front and winds increased to moderate from
the northeast. Minimum temperatures each morning ranged from -15 to -19 in
the alpine. Daytime highs ranged from -5 to -10, elevation dependent.
A crust that formed on April 12, was found 10-30cm below the surface on all
but high north facing terrain. For the most part the bond between the crust
and snow were good, but facets were starting to form above the crust.
Periods of wind through the week caused isolated pockets of windslabs in
alpine lee features up to 30cm thick.
We experienced minimal avalanche activity through the week, with no
significant naturals observed. We managed to kick off a few sluffs to size 2
due to heating on solar aspects early in the week and ski cut one size 1 on
a high elevation northwest facing lee feature.
As expected this time of year, the best skiing was on high elevation
sheltered north facing terrain. On other quadrants and elevations, dust on
crust describes conditions. Due to the crust ski crampons were useful.
In general we rated stability G/VG/VG
Sunday, April 20, 2008
[MCR] The Professor Falls.
some water, but always avoidable. We did the walk off (one single
rope rappel), and road bikes in.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Monashees - Frisby Creek
ACMG Full Ski Guide Exam
Saturday, April 19, 2008
[MCR] Whiteman Falls/Red Man Soars, Kananaskis Country
Yes it was full on winter out in K country today with -14C when we left the car this morning and -10C when we returned. A strong N wind was blowing throughout the day.
We walked the 5km on the road with fast travel. The approach ice is actually recovering from the warm past week but we actually climbed some old ice that still remained.
Redman Soars: the ice on the first pitch is quite rotten and requires a fair amount of care.
This area still offers reasonable climbing but once the temps get above freezing again I would say that it will be finished within a day or so.
Cheers,
Rob Owens
Alpine guide, Assistant Ski Guide
[MCR] King Creek April 19
Dry brittle ice, cold toes and fingers, brisk windchills. Kicked off
a small soft surface windslab on the climbers right hand route, too
small to be a threat.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Monday, April 14, 2008
[MCR] Peyto to Sherbrooke April 8-13
The size 2 skier triggered slab of April 8th (reported by Conrad
Janzen on the MCR, April 9th) spooked me out enough, when I spied it
in the field on the morning of the 9th, we didn't ski into the Baker
Col as planned, but kept our skiing that day to shallower slopes of
the upper Peyto Glacier and below ridgeline.
April 11th got a settlement (whumpf) 50 meters shy of the ridgeline
on the Diableret Glacier and went no higher.
April 12th we could see the tin foil like sheen of sun crusts on all
the southern aspects above treeline in the Little Yoho. Strong
southerly winds began to blow the night, blew over one of our guy's
tele ski (no brake) that went for a wee ski for about 100m below the
hut -stick them in good!
13th strong south winds and sub zero temps until the head of the
Niles glacier, then moist snow sitting on a crust. East face of Mt
Niles spitting size 1 solar sloughs as of 10am, none running over the
bench above the ski track, but spooky to see the cornices up there in
the sun. Looked like a solar cycle had run on the West to SW aspects
late in the day on the 12th, even a size 1.5 slab out on the SW face
of the little peak between Niles and Daly. Moist snow all the way out
and a couple inches of water between the snow and ice on Sherbrooke
Lake, the old ski track was supportive. Several full path size 3
avalanches off of the East side of Mt Ogden, and a number of upper
half path slabs on the West side of the valley (not running as far on
that side). Trail down to Wapta Lake was only icy and fast on the
steepest switchback.
Given the wind I suspect that much of the traverse will be a bit
hammered now, but it is snowing in Banff as I type.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Saturday, April 12, 2008
[MCR] Jervis Inlet
[MCR] Wapta/Little Yoho Valley
from the College of the Rockies MAST program. We started at Peyto Lake and
exited today via Yoho Pass into Emerald Lake after staying a couple of
days in Little Yoho valley.
Much of what we did overlapped with the Ass't Ski Exam so I'll not repeat
what was already reported.
Weather
-------
Today things instantly changed from winter to spring: hot, calm winds, and
clear skies with intense sun.
Avalanches
----------
A widespread cycle on all solar aspects (E-S-W) was observed in the
alpine today as we left.
Of note, the recent NW winds and significant snowfall from the spring
squalls (up to 50 cm as of yesterday) has created conditions for slab
avalanches on solar aspects as was observed this afternoon on the Yoho (?)
slidepath, which ran size 3 slab avalanche full path (this is the big
slidepath immediately above the south west end of Emerald Lake) at about
noon time.
Snowpack
--------
Below treeline the snow was close to isothermal (wet and sloppy) on most
aspects by early afternoon.
The Feb 25 surface hoar (down 40-100 cm) is still very scary and affected
our route selection greatly in the alpine. For example, we chose to avoid
going over Isolated Col and opted for the Whaleback Trail instead to
access Little Yoho.
With the widespread meltdown on solar aspects and the worrisome surface
hoar instability on alpine non-solar aspects, today was a good day to go
home.
Regards,
Tom Wolfe
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Wapta Icefields April 5 to 11
Weather
There was overall cool weather and significant solar radiation throughout the week. Springtime squalls came and went leaving anywhere from 5 to 40cm of accumulation in the alpine. Average temps ranged from -21° in the alpine overnight to -1° in the daytime. Moderate SW and NW winds have redistributed new snow at higher elevations. Yesterday was the warmest day of the week resulting in sun crust forming on most solar aspects.
Snowpack
South and West aspects: mix of weak facets and crusts. 5-10cm of new snow lies on a melt freeze crust with facets below.
North and East aspects: the February 26 surface hoar exists at different elevations. This surface hoar is still hard to predict with significant whomphs with skier traffic occurring mainly from areas with shallow snow pack. Stability tests (compression tests) showed significant weakness on the surface hoar ranging in depth from 80cm to 100cm.
Avalanche Activity
Widespread sloughing out of steep unsupported features under daytime warming on S and W aspects (Occasionally stepping down into slab avalanches). Natural cornice falls have resulted in the triggering of large slab avalanches. We triggered a Size 3 avalanche from a distance of 20m away at the west saddle of Isolated Peak triggering the whole slope below. This occurred on an N aspect at 8870ft, on 25°slope, and released 70cm to 1m deep. The avalanche cleaned all the winter snow away to the bare ice of the glacier. We had widespread whumphing in flat shallow rocky areas and low angled terrain.
Confidence remains low as to the predictability of the surface hoar layer.
Travel Conditions
Travel is fast and easy. Trails down low are hard and fast in the morning, and trail breaking in the alpine varies from 5-30cm ski pen depending on aspect and elevation. Ski crampons are starting to be needed on south aspects in earlier parts of the days. Travel in shallow areas is more trying as the snowpack is weak and less supportive.
Ski quality
Good skiing can be found on N and E aspects for the fresh boot top powder or on South aspects where spring corn can be found if timed right. If not timed right this can be breakable crust.
ACMG ASG Exam
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Friday, April 11, 2008
[MCR] Howsons 11 April 08
equivalent at the lodge, and more forecast. So far, the new snow sits on
solid crusts and what slides is not very much. We heard and saw numerous
size 1 to 2.5 natural avalanches off the rock faces of Hut Cliffs. Ski
cutting of moist new snow at treeline and below released 10 cm thick
slabs that ran slowly. In the alpine, there is strong wind effect from
the South. Temperatures were -4 degrees at 2200 m and -2 degrees at 1650
m in the pm. With more precipitation, the storm snow will likely stiffen
and slabs will propagate more easily. The stability has become worse and
the danger higher.
--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
[MCR] Jasper - Winston Churchill Traverse
[MCR] Dolomite Peak and Wapta Icefields, April 6 - 9th, 2008
Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
403.678.8336(cell)// 403.760.0887(home)
A person should have wings to carry them where their dreams go, but sometimes a pair of skis makes a good substitute. -Hans Gmoser-
__________________________________________________
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Monday, April 7, 2008
[MCR] Rogers Pass/Wapta Icefields
and Wapta Icefields last week. The info is a few days old now.
Rogers Pass, March 29 - April 1:
We skied variations on the 3 Pass Route, Young's Peak Traverse, and Flat
Creek area.
Weather: Typical spring weather with convective flurries, variable light
wind, yet cool temperatures. Up to 15cm over the 4 days.
Snowpack: Our main Concern throughout the week were the persistent weak
layers of March 9 (down 60cm) and Feb 27 (down 120 cm). Test results were
generally in the hard range with planar characteristics, reminding us that
there was potential for wide propogations. There were sun crusts on steep
solar aspects up to 1800m.
Avalanches: A few natural cornice triggered avalanches up to size 2, (north
side of Bhagheera Mtn) Limited solar triggered point releases on sunny
aspects.
Hazard: We rated the hazard as, Alpine: Considerable, Treeline: Moderate,
Below treeline: Low.
Ski Quality: Best skiing was found on North aspects.
Wapta Icefields, April 3 - 4:
We traveled to (in three separate groups) to the Bow, Balfour, and Peyto
Hut areas.
Weather: Mixed spring weather once again with intense convective flurries
that produced 10-20cm of low density snow on the afternoon of April 3. Cool
temperatures and moderate west winds.
Snowpack: Snow cover ranged from 150 cm to 300 cm on the glaciers. Surface
Hoar was observed up to 6 mm in sheltered North aspects, moist snow up to
2700m on South aspects. The Feb 25th surface hoar layer is now buried 60 to
100cm deep, and producing hard compression test results.
Avalanches: Evidence of a natural cycle up to 2.5. We had a skier remote
size 2 on the West side of Mt. Gordon on a steep north facing role. Group
was up tracking in safe terrain above the feature. It released on the Feb
25th surface hoar layer. The fracture line was 100cm deep in places, 200m
wide, and 75m long. There is still potential out there. Picture attached.
Hazard Rating: Alpine: Considerable, Tree Line: Considerable, Below Tree
Line: Low
Ski Quality: Best skiing will be found on North aspect once again.
Marc Piche
Jim Gudjonson
Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guides
(See attached file: Gordon size 2.jpg)
Sunday, April 6, 2008
[MCR] Rockies front range snowpack - Waiparous Creek
We were able to drive until about 2 km after crossing Waiparous Creek itself, and were stopped at the steep turn onto the hill. From here we walked in 30-40 cm foot penetration up and through the meadow, until we started into the forest leading to the Hydrophobia drainage itself. Then it became average 70-100cm of postholing, no sign of old trail. After 4 hours we collapsed with the route in sight, ate all our lunch and walked out. 7 hr day of hiking.
Huge puddles on the drive out, some 40cm deep. This last month of upslope storms has clearly added up out here, and it seems that this place will come apart when the spring melt truly begins.
Oh yeah, the route looked awesome. First pitch big, fat and blue.
Will's website has excellent beta on access via Waiparous.
http://www.gravsports.com/Ice%20Pages%20Folder/hydrophobia_beta.htm
Grant Statham
Mountain Guide
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Saturday, April 5, 2008
[MCR] Massey's
am on a supportive melt freeze crust (knowing that the crust would be
gone in the pm we walked out the railway tracks which is easy right
now and is the way to go both in and out).
Massey's is big and blue and user friendly as the temperature climbs,
good trail into the route and on the walk-off.
The overnight freeze was still holding things together well when we
left at 14:00.
Happy Trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Friday, April 4, 2008
[MCR] Wapta Traverse, March 31 to April 4th, 2008
IFMGA Mountain Guide
403.678.8336(cell)// 403.760.0887(home)
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.
Thursday, April 3, 2008
[MCR] Bow Summit
Summit late this afternoon. Surprisingly excellent skiing where there were
no tracks. -2 C at the parking lot at 15:00, -4 C at the high point of the
adventure 600 ft above the parking lot at about 15:45. 25 cm ski
penetration, surface was loose up to treeline but lots of evidence of wind
up high.
HS was around 140 cm, you can check this easily by plunging a ski pole
until it hits the ground (basket first or handle first, it doesn't
matter!) 15 cm facetting storm snow seemed well bonded to the underlying
facets, but I have no idea what it would be like in the alpine.
Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Mts Columbia and Andromeda
Glacier. Snowcoach road is up and operating. Passing the second step
on climber's left, and then traversing back to the ramp up the third
step, would be less nerve wracking than passing it on climber's right
through the serac debris of Snowdome, think I'll give the left side a
go if I ever go back there.
We were able to straight line climb the ramp with sleds and our heel
lifts up. Camped on the last bench before the Trench.
12 hours return to camp on Mt Columbia on the 31st. We ascended the
South Ridge because the East Face looked a little spooky with wind
and snow (having said that the East face may be fine. We didn't go so
we don't know). The South Ridge is in rimed up winter shape.
April 1 we moved camp to the BC/Alta border at the head of the
Athabasca Glacier.
April 2 climbed Andromeda via the South ridge which is fine shape,
skis on into the Andromeda/Unamed col.
Very, very cold up there until this am (April 3). Had mitts and
quilted pants on for several days.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.