Valley area from my past week of guiding (March 10-16). The end of the
season is rapidly nearing for lower elevation ice climbs. My main
observation is the regular occurrence of natural rock fall as the sun
and warm temperatures affect melt snow and lubricate overhead scree
slopes.
Louise Falls: It is still blue but the pillar itself is seeing sun-
affect and getting a bit bleached. Sun is hitting it at 11:30 am when
it pops up over Mt Fairview. The main hazard is the abundance of BIG
hanging daggers on either side of the pillar itself. Limit exposure to
them, especially belay stances (I've witnessed folks setting up belays
right under them on the second pitch) or maybe just go somewhere else
if it is either really cold (brittle pillars bad) or really warm and
sunny (direct sun on pillars bad). The hanging dagger of the mixed
route, Captain Hook, is growing thus threatening the usual gear-up
spot under the rock overhang on the right.
Haffner Creek: Random spontaneous rock fall as the sun bakes the scree
slopes above the climbs. The mixed routes are delaminating with lots
of water flowing over the rock. Beware of prying thawed holds off.
Coire Dubh: The Integral to the top was in great shape last week but
as of this morning, the rock is freshly caked in 10cm of snow so we
only climbed the lower ice. I'd avoid both the lower ice and Integral
for a couple days because as the snow melts it will surely generate
rock fall from the numerous scree-covered ledges.
Grotto Canyon: Hers is white and sun-leached. The mixed routes are
close to being done as the rock is soaked and the ice is rotted. A
couple grapefruit-sized rocks fell from the top of the big cliff above
His and Hers missing a couple of folks at the base by less than a meter.
Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide
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