is in, with the ice hanging just below the last bolt
and the first pitch thick enough to get some shorter
screws in. The ice isn't hanging far enough to stem
to it though, so exiting the rock is quite physical
and felt harder than the grade. Second pitch thinner
than usual for the start, and quite wet (mushy), but
very climbable. Lots of snow out there though (knee
to sometimes thigh deep) postholing and high winds
yesterday that covered our tracks immediately. It
didn't feel overly dangerous yesterday with the
quality of the snow, but with all the winds I might
wait until the weather settles more before venturing
there.
Sarah Hueniken
Assistant Alpine Guide
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.