A popular route lately.
However conditions have changed since its condition was first posted.
This is what i found:
It was not as wet as it was earlier in the week. But more snow than on my
first visit. The colum cracked while climbing it.
At the top i decided to go and take a look above the route, to familiarize
my self a bit more.
Above there is much wind loading and lots of snow! Over 1 meter penetration
in some sections.
Significant slab formation in the main shoot coming in from climbers
left(aprox 20cm thick) observed at about 40m above the route, already enough
material to take you off the route. At the top of the shoot maybe 300m away
a nice 1.5 to 2m cornice overhangs the line.
Basically those are the facts. The snow felt good but the terrain and the
volume did not. Maybe the next major snow fall or wind event.... At the
least I would pay serious attention to minize the exposure: on the approach
and during belays.
The terrain was bigger than i had thought and despite the current Hazard
posting i would find something else to do for a while.
Patrick Delaney
ass. alpine guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.