yesterday. Creek entrance is about 100m uphill from the new "5 KM" sign
on the right side of the O'Hara road (on a tree). Large serac calving
off of the climber's right hand side of the glacier in the previous
several days, ran to the creek, spooky. Gained the glacier via three low
angle 5th class pitches up the ice tongue. 1st steep step passed on the
climber's left side via and ice/gravel grovel. Favored the left side of
things thereafter. Saw a house sized serac collapse on the right side
about half way up, exciting to watch from the left side. Finished up a
nice coulior to the Collier/Victoria col. Upper Victoria ridge in fine
shape. The most incredible broken spectre I've ever seen on the summit
at 4pm, 3-4 complete halos of rainbow around our big shadows. Descent
via the Plain of Six glaciers, some crevasse weaving, but not that bad
really. Lake Louise taxi service can pick you up from the Chateau and
drive you back to O'Hara parking for $35.00, great deal at the end of a
long day.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.