From: Sylvia.Forest@pc.gc.ca [mailto:Sylvia.Forest@pc.gc.ca]
Sent: September 22, 2006 17:35
To: Tom Wolfe
Subject: Sir Donald, Uto
Sir Donald:
There have been numerous questions regarding the fatality on Sir Donald
last month. Hopefully the following information will be useful in
preventing similar accidents from happening.
Time of Day: approximately 16:45
Weather: Clear, sunny, calm, very warm
# Climbers on the route: Approximately 20
Synopsis: A party of two climbers from Washington had reached the summit
of Sir Donald, via the NW Ridge and West Face Bi-Pass to the summit. One
of the climbers was beginning the fourth rappel. This is a steep rappel.
By staying to the north side of the ridge, one can rappel to easier ground,
and a short down climb to the next anchor. If one rappels off the south
side, it becomes overhanging, and difficult to get back onto the ridge
proper. The rope being used was an 8mm x 50m twin rope. Knots were not
tied in the ends. Prussiks were not being used. The rappel device was a
standard ATC.
The climber on rappel was on the south side of the ridge, which is
overhanging. She was not able to swing over to the ridge proper, and was
unable to stop her descent, due to the lack of friction provided by the ATC
on the 8mm rope. With no knots at the end of the ropes and no back-up
prussik, there was nothing to prevent her from sliding off the end of the
rappel rope. She fell approximately 300 meters.
Comments: Wardens have noted that it is becoming common practise to bring
as short and light a rope as possible for the objective. Small diameter
ropes are commonly used for serious mountaineering objectives, due to their
light weight and small bulk. Correspondingly, belay/rappel devices being
used are not necessarily designed for such small diameter ropes.
The Rogers Pass Centre has excellent information on the Sir Donald Rappel
route, including a description of the fourth rappel, with direction to stay
to the north side.
A 50 meter rope will suffice for this route, however rappels do not always
end exactly at the next rappel anchor. Some down climbing is required to
get between some stations.
Uto Peak: It is most common for climbers to descend the NW Ridge of Uto to
the Uto-Eagle Col. Recently, a few parties have descended a prominent and
inviting gully part way down the ridge, rather than going all the way to
the Col. This gully now has a small foot path created by climbers. This
gully ends in cliff bands and rotten rock. It is best to climb over the
small block on the ridge, and continue easily down to the Eagle Col. Here,
it is possible to descend the gully, which still steepens near the bottom,
or the rib coming of Eagle Peak (preferred).
Sylvia Forest
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.