[MCR] Glacier Park/Revelstoke Conditions - September 29

September 29 - The snow from the last storm is slowly melting off the peaks in
Glacier Park, with some very nice autumn days. Some of the south and west
facing ridges are probably climbable, with pockets of snow on ledges and north
facing terrain. Sir Donald still has snow on the upper third of the west face,
and will have snow even lower on the north side of the NW ridge. Walking on
the snow covered rock on the approaches will be slippery (knee and ankle
tweaking conditions), and expect verglass if you are out early in the morning.
With remanants of the storm snow on the glaciers, watch for hidden crevasses
and thin bridges.

Daytime highs in the mid 20's in the valley in Revelstoke, making for some very
pleasant cragging weather.

The days are getting shorter, remember to pack a headlamp!

Jordy Shepherd
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary Sept. 28, 2006

After last weeks storm numerous parties were out and about in both the
Rockies and the Selkirks. Reports vary slightly but indicate that between 20
to 40cms of storm snow has remained at upper elevations (2500m and higher)
and especially on northerly aspects. Below that, the snow has largely
disappeared. The bulk of the precipitation hit the southern Rockies and the
more northerly areas received less snowfall. Most groups report about 20cm
of foot penetration. There is no mention of recent avalanche activity
however, there is enough volume of snow that wet sloughing is a concern on
sunny exposures later in the afternoon. While the avalanche danger is low it
is worth keeping in mind that high mountain terrain is unforgiving and even
a small slab could have serious consequences. don't rule out the possibility
of windslabs.

Travel is quite good on the glaciers but don't trust those new snow bridges!
Careful leaders, probing and a tight rope are essential. Most ice faces
have cleaned off nicely with a bit of snow climbing to offer relief from the
boney cold front pointing. Some water ice can be found, a new ice line was
climbed on Mt. Andromeda, but the low elevation ice is leaving fast with a
return to mild temps.

Cool temps and dry conditions should make for great alpine climbing until
the next precip arrives on Saturday or Sunday.

James Blench

ACMG/UIAGM

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Begbie: Revelstoke.

Up the standard North Ridge on Mt. Begbie yesterday (the big peak you can see from Revelstoke).  +8 on the summit at noon, and a slight westerly breeze just enough to give you a chill standing still.  Perfect views from the summit for 360 degrees.

The ridge was plastered with snow from last weeks storms and the recent warm weather combined with cooler nights has created stiff snow that held steps well and entertained us with the odd patch of verglassed rock.  In general the route was frozen on the way up and soaking wet on the descent (at around 1pm).  Made for a slower than normal ascent/descent but still more than reasonable, no crampons were necessary.  20-40cm on average on the sheltered side of the ridge.  The snow hid many holes between the boulders and created a lot of bruised shins along the way.

Crossing the moat to gain the catwalk was thought provoking although not too difficult.  Traverse very well bolted for the level of difficulty and exposure.  The quartzite crag below the catwalk is just screaming for routes – a long way to go cragging but would make a great day on a muli-day trip up there.

A great day out.

The guys at Selkirk Mountain Helicopters were fantastic and I’d highly recommend flying with them if you’re not up for the long approach/descent or want to experience the joys of heli-mountaineering.

Ian Tomm
Assistant Ski Guide

[MCR] Andromeda

Climbed the NW face of Andromeda (mixed and ice features up to M5) via the Upper Athabasca Glacier.

 

-1C at 0430 at 2000m

 

The Athabasca glacier has little coverage (max 10cm of settled snow) to it’s apex with the slots mostly open and visible. On the face we witnessed a good melt-freeze cycle in full effect. Below ~2500m the water ice that had formed in the past week was on its way out while the upper face was frozen solid and intact late into the afternoon.

 

The snow on the upper Skyladder and summit ridge was 10-30cm deep and well settled with the wind and sun effect. Down the Andromeda-Athabasca Col. No slab formation on any part of the route and little to no snow available for transport. About 30cm’s of settled snow on the AA glacier.

 

No tracks leading up Athabasca via the AA glacier but our track will get you to where the route steepens.

 

The North face routes on Andromeda (A-strain, Shooting Gallery, North Bowl) look snowy and icy. No cornice formation has begun above the Andromeda Strain.

 

Rob Owens

Alpine Guide

 

[MCR] north face pro deal

Does anyone have any beta on the North face Cats Meow sleeping bag and a
possible north face prodeal ? I am looking for a -5 to -10 synthetic for
snarly wet fall mornings.

Peter Oxtoby

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Opabin

On Behalf Of Todd Craig
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 8:06 AM
 

Friday sept 22nd I did the Wenkchemna, opabin pass trip. sunny with cloudy periods all day. Little snow on Wenkchemna pass but enough to make travelling easier. Tokumm glacierhas 20 to 40cm of snow on the ice, slots still visable no crampons needed to reach Opabin pass. 0 celcius at the pass 2590m at 4pm. Opabin glacier easy traveling on snow. Water ice starting to form on the big peaks. Looks like winter up high.

 

 

Todd Craig, Mtn guide

 

 

[MCR] Sir Donald, Uto Incident

-----Original Message-----
From: Sylvia.Forest@pc.gc.ca [mailto:Sylvia.Forest@pc.gc.ca]
Sent: September 22, 2006 17:35
To: Tom Wolfe
Subject: Sir Donald, Uto

Sir Donald:
There have been numerous questions regarding the fatality on Sir Donald
last month. Hopefully the following information will be useful in
preventing similar accidents from happening.

Time of Day: approximately 16:45
Weather: Clear, sunny, calm, very warm
# Climbers on the route: Approximately 20

Synopsis: A party of two climbers from Washington had reached the summit
of Sir Donald, via the NW Ridge and West Face Bi-Pass to the summit. One
of the climbers was beginning the fourth rappel. This is a steep rappel.
By staying to the north side of the ridge, one can rappel to easier ground,
and a short down climb to the next anchor. If one rappels off the south
side, it becomes overhanging, and difficult to get back onto the ridge
proper. The rope being used was an 8mm x 50m twin rope. Knots were not
tied in the ends. Prussiks were not being used. The rappel device was a
standard ATC.

The climber on rappel was on the south side of the ridge, which is
overhanging. She was not able to swing over to the ridge proper, and was
unable to stop her descent, due to the lack of friction provided by the ATC
on the 8mm rope. With no knots at the end of the ropes and no back-up
prussik, there was nothing to prevent her from sliding off the end of the
rappel rope. She fell approximately 300 meters.

Comments: Wardens have noted that it is becoming common practise to bring
as short and light a rope as possible for the objective. Small diameter
ropes are commonly used for serious mountaineering objectives, due to their
light weight and small bulk. Correspondingly, belay/rappel devices being
used are not necessarily designed for such small diameter ropes.

The Rogers Pass Centre has excellent information on the Sir Donald Rappel
route, including a description of the fourth rappel, with direction to stay
to the north side.

A 50 meter rope will suffice for this route, however rappels do not always
end exactly at the next rappel anchor. Some down climbing is required to
get between some stations.

Uto Peak: It is most common for climbers to descend the NW Ridge of Uto to
the Uto-Eagle Col. Recently, a few parties have descended a prominent and
inviting gully part way down the ridge, rather than going all the way to
the Col. This gully now has a small foot path created by climbers. This
gully ends in cliff bands and rotten rock. It is best to climb over the
small block on the ridge, and continue easily down to the Eagle Col. Here,
it is possible to descend the gully, which still steepens near the bottom,
or the rib coming of Eagle Peak (preferred).

Sylvia Forest
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for Sept 19th, 2006

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued Sept 19th, 2006

 

Nine grey and sloppy days in a row now in the alpine of the Rockies and Selkirks. Snowpack depths vary widely but expect at least patchy snow at treeline. 15-30cms snow in the alpine in the rockies and more in some interior locations. Generally it has been a relatively warm(hanging around 0c) and relatively calm week in the alpine with lots of cloud and only light precipitation.

 

Very limited observations. However, in the last four days at Lake Ohara I saw size 1-2 wet avalanches with a few rocks onboard coming out of steep terrain every time the sun came out. Good travel on the Opabin glacier today but I had no interest in wandering anywhere near big slopes like Lefroy or the west face of Hungabee.

 

Even moderate elevation rock routes like Castle and Louis are still a little white and probably very wet as of this afternoon.

 

Not quite cold enough for any reasonable waterfall ice or decent mixed climbing below 4000m's.

 

If you are desperate, there is probably some decent wet snow skiing up high somewhere. Stability is widley variable but definetly will deteriorate quickly in the sun and on warm days. The rocks and ice are just under the surface. Stick to mellow terrain or better yet, watch a good movie.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] West Coast Mountain Condition report Sept 21/06

Mountain Condition report for Sept 21/06

Not that many reports coming in lately.
A period of colder than average weather and
precipitation has amounted up to 20cm's of new snow
above 8000ft. Below 8000ft most new snow has melted
off.
The main concern right now is probably the new snow
that is thinly covering and hiding the late season
crevasses. It was a warm/ dry summer season and there
are many crevasses that are open were there usually
isn't.
Another concern in the next few days will be rockfall
with the forcasted warm weather coming this weekend.
Be aware when traveling under cliffs for the next few
days as the snow melts off.

This could be the last spell of good weather coming up
and the rock should dry off after a day or two, so
have fun.

Craig McGee, Mountain Guide

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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Bow Valley Rock

Hello,

 

Just finished 5 days of rock guiding in the Bow Valley. Here's what we found, If you are still thinking of rock climbing.

The Back of the Lake is in reasonable shape no snow. (Sept. 17+19th)

Gooseberry was dry. (climbed Sept.18th)

The climbing on Mothers Day was dry (climbed Sept.18th) however the traverse over to the Rogan's gulley descent had a lot of snow (up to knee deep). We stayed higher than the regular trail to avoid the edge of the cliff.

Wasootch is dry.(Sept.20th)

 

Have Fun!

 

Jesse de Montigny

Assistant Alpine Guide

Assistant Ski Guide

[MCR] Bugaboos

Just got out of the Bugaboos this morning. Just under
one meter of new snow at Applebee campground
(8000ft).....yes one meter!!!. 75cms at the Kain hut.
5 cms at the parking lot.
Craig McGee, Mountain Guide

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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Wapta

Shaun King and I had a group at Bow Hut the last 3 days.

Light but steady snowfalls during the period. Total accumulated storm
snow of 20 cm on the hut deck. 30 cm on the Onionskin yesterday,
suspect up to a total of 40 cm storm snow there today. Light to
moderate winds, out of the NE on the Onionskin yesterday.

-8 at the hut this morning. Freezing levels lowering the further south
and east we drove on the way home today and 20 cm of snow on my deck in
Banff when I got home.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Revelstoke and Rogers Pass Conditions - September 15

The snowline is down to 1800m (below Grizzly Shoulder elevation)in Rogers Pass
this morning, and to 'The Burn' on Mount Macpherson south of Revelstoke.

There was 10 cm of snow in Balu Pass yesterday morning (Sept 14) on my way into
Nakimu Cave, and with last night's storm there is probably 20+ cm on the ground
today (Sept 15).

Conditions aren't very good for quartzite alpine climbing.

Jordy Shepherd
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary, September 15th, 2006

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Interior Ranges. Issued september 15th, 2006.

 

Winter arrived with a wet slap in the face early Wednesday morning. Most areas have reported at least 20cms of snow above 2500m's and at even lower elevations in Rogers Pass and the Lake O'Hara area. Approximately 10cms on the highway at the Columbia icefields and in Icefall Brook. The big winner is the Conrad Kain hut in the Bugaboos with around 1 meter of wet storm snow as of this morning. 

 

Winds were variable but lots of snow was moving around and we should assume big fresh windslabs are just waiting for a trigger up high. The storm came in with light winds so it is quite possible there is a layer of soft snow on top of the rock, ice and dirt and hard slabs above that in lots of places. I had to walk carefully around a big fat pillow well over 1m deep 10m's wide and 30m's long just below Abbotts Pass hut yesterday and it was spooky. The consequences of a ride in an avalanche right now would be very nasty. Lots of rocks to hit and open crevasses and bergschrunds to be stuffed into.

 

Glacier travel will most likely be poor this weekend. Conditions were as dry as I have ever seen by Tuesday, september 5th. Enough snow fell to cover crevasses but it will not settle in time to show where they are or to make effective bridges.

 

Alpine rockclimbing is probably a write-off for the weekend. I have 20cms of wet snow in my yard in Canmore at 11am so I can't imagine even Yamnuska will be dry any time soon.

 

To complete this cheery picture, count on a ugly period of rockfall if this snow melts significantly on Sunday and Monday.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Watchtower Creek, Victoria North

Up Watchtower Creek and Victoria North Glacier to the North Peak
yesterday. Creek entrance is about 100m uphill from the new "5 KM" sign
on the right side of the O'Hara road (on a tree). Large serac calving
off of the climber's right hand side of the glacier in the previous
several days, ran to the creek, spooky. Gained the glacier via three low
angle 5th class pitches up the ice tongue. 1st steep step passed on the
climber's left side via and ice/gravel grovel. Favored the left side of
things thereafter. Saw a house sized serac collapse on the right side
about half way up, exciting to watch from the left side. Finished up a
nice coulior to the Collier/Victoria col. Upper Victoria ridge in fine
shape. The most incredible broken spectre I've ever seen on the summit
at 4pm, 3-4 complete halos of rainbow around our big shadows. Descent
via the Plain of Six glaciers, some crevasse weaving, but not that bad
really. Lake Louise taxi service can pick you up from the Chateau and
drive you back to O'Hara parking for $35.00, great deal at the end of a
long day.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Van Isle - Triple Peak

Spent some time working in the Vancouver Island Alps this weekend. Climbed Triple Peak via it's Northern Route. 

 

The 2wd (HC) logging road up Marion Main gets you to just over 700 m, and then a steep climbers trail gets you to a beautiful alpine lake (1050m) in an hour,  followed by snow and rock to the top (just over 1500m). Amazingly, there is still a couple of good chunks of snow from last winter - mostly in acre size patches, starting at 1200m. To get to the rock climbing, the snow steepens and ends in a large moat. Need to be careful where you exit onto the snow as the most lip is overhanging quite a bit. A belay is recommended.

 

From there it's 5 pitches of  4th and low 5th basalt, breccias (really good quality), and the odd vertical heather slope to the top.  My climbing mates tell me there is quite a nice view from the summit - coast to coast. If we hadn't of chosen the one day of fog and drizzle in the past month, I would've been happy to see that.

 

Brian Gould
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Athabasca

Rob Owens and I took a couple of groups up Athabasca North Glacier
today. Little change from the last time I was there about 10 days ago
except the crevasse bridges at the bottom end of the ramp continue to
slowly deteriorate and the trail keeps getting pushed further climbers
left, closer to the Silverhorn.

The Silverhorn serac has not been active for several weeks now.

Just a skiff of new snow with the cold front that passed through last
night.

Otherwise good, fast conditions up Atha-B.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions report for the Coast Mountains for Sept 7

MOUNTAIN CONDITION FOR THE COAST MOUNTAINS. Sept 07/06
Generally conditions in the coast range are excellent.
Warmer than average temperatures are keeping lots of
people out in the mountains.
Some things to think about however are the conditions
that are left from this past hot summer.
Glaciers are generally getting harder to travel on,
with bare ice or firn on most slopes. Also Crevasses
are more troublesome right now with many classic
routes such as the North ridge of Wedge requiring more
effort and time to navigate than usual.
As well this hot summer has melted almost all snow in
the alpine, even pockets that usually remain in most
years. This has left a troublesome mess of perched,
dangerous blocks in many areas. Extra care should be
taken at the toes of glaciers and the base of rock
routes that usually are covered in snow or ice. The
lack of left over snow is also making hard to get
water in the alpine.
There have been a few serious accidents in the past
week. Remember to keep your guard up and keep playing
safe.
Craig McGee. IFMGA

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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary Sept 7th, 2006

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Interior Ranges issued September 7th, 2006.

 

The snow that fell around August 30th is now just a memory except on high elevation north aspects.  There was almost zero reported snow avalanche activity from this storm with the exception of some wet slides as it melted away.

 

It has been very unseasonably warm most days and especially most nights up high. In the past week overnight temperatures never went below 14c at the Conrad Kain Hut and it was 6c at the Abbott pass hut at 6am the one night I was there. It is "September" in name only.

 

The Rockies are back in good summer conditions. Glacier travel is reasonable again if you get a good freeze. There is lots of variation in the condition of various snow and ice faces. Some could be good objectives if you get some cold temperatures and others will be dirty and best avoided no matter what the temps are. Alpine rock routes are good, with the exception, again, of the steep high North faces. It is still too warm and way too dry for most of the big mixed routes at present.

 

Perhaps due to all the smoke in the air things sound very warm and spooky in the transitional areas in the Bugaboos and interior ranges. Reports of LOTS of rock and ice fall around bergschrunds on the Howsers and Bugaboo/ Snowpatch col and even some sustained rockfalls and major changes in boulderfields like the area between Lion's Way and Ears Between on Crescent. An alpine guides exam in the area was descending all week via the Snowpatch/Pigeon col rappels and Bugaboo glacier to avoid the Bugaboo/ Snowpatch col in the pm. The descents off the East faces of the Howsers sounds serious as you approach the ice with rock and icefall being observed all day. The West faces of the Howsers and the North ridge of the North Howser are in great shape but think hard about how you are going to get off those things. These same caveats would probably apply to similar terrain throught the Purcells and Selkirks. Having said all that, the stone is warm and dry and the forecast isn't too bad except for Saturday.  

 

Choose your objectives carefully from home and don't be afraid to turn around if the long, hot and dry summer has left your route in really rough shape. It could be a great weekend for a route with low angle transitions between rock and ice as your plan A or at least as your plan B.

 

Bon Cours,

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide  

[MCR] Mt. Bryce North Face, South Glacier route

Marco Delesalle and I climbed Mt. Bryce's North Face this weekend. The
route is in excellent condition. The recent storm snow has gone through
some melt-freeze below 3000 m and makes for good travel. Above 3000 m the
face steepens and the snow turns to winter--dry powder--and is shallow
(10-15 cm) from sloughing and avalanching during the last storm and
somewhat facetted, but makes for excellent climbing. There is a lot more
rock on the face than the photo in Dougherty's book indicates, and the
bulges at the top of the face are not there--we took a direct line left of
the rock to within 10 m of the summit. We climbed the ice at night,
summitting just before dawn to minimize hazard both for the climb and the
descent.

I should add that the route is far more complex and involved than you
might guess from Dougherty's description and more challenging than any
other grade IV routes that either Marco or I have climbed. Imagine
beginning your trip with 2 hours of hard core bushwhacking (Dougherty was
accurate about this!) followed by a climb of Mt. Temple's E Ridge,
followed by an ice face about 40% longer and quite a bit steeper at the
top than Athabasca, and consider that there is not a single trace of any
previous human impact anywhere between the cutblocks and the summit, and
you will get a good idea of what's involved.

The South Glacier route is currently in poor condition with high hazard
and is not recommended. The couloir is least hazardous when the sun is not
shining on it (i.e. at night since it's south facing), when it is covered
with snow, and when temperatures are below freezing. Right now, with
overnight freezing levels below 3000 m and with the couloir covered in
rubble for its bottom two-thirds, it is not a good place to be at any time
of the day for climbing or descending.

You can get a good view of the top half of the couloir from the Bush North
road at about km 88.5. If you see rubble, don't do it. Even if you don't
see rubble, the bottom half is the worst area and you might not find out
until you're there how dangerous it really is.

For those interested in more information I'll put a trip report up later
today or tomorrow on the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia,
http://bivouac.com, a site I highly recommend checking out and subscribing
to.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Lake OHara area

Climbed Victoria from Abbotts pass and down Huber ledges today. Lots of drifted snow in sheltered spots but the ridge is mostly dry. Up to 60cms in drifts but average around 30cms. Tough 5cm crust with dry snow underneath. Spooky in places as it definetly hadn't settled as much as I had hoped. I didn't climb the snow face on Huber as it looked loaded and was in the sun. Lefroy and Glacier peak looked dark and unattractive after all the recent avalanche activity. Hungabee and Biddle are still plastered. Tarrant buttress is mostly dry.

 

The unsettled snow made the glacier travel tricky as the new bridges have no useful strength but are not sagging at all.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide 

[MCR] Assiniboine

In the Assiniboine area today. Snow is down to the hut but Gmoser Highway
is almost dry. Sun exposed aspects are drying quickly up to the 9500 foot
level and should continue to do so over the weekend.. North aspects are
staying white.

Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.