winter climbing conditions, identical to a Febuary day I had on the
route once. That said, it was a long day -19 hrs (5am-midnight) hut to
hut. Gmoser Highway is dry, NF was locked up in frost all day. Belayed
all but 100m of short roping at the shoulder. 4 double snow picket
anchors, 1/2 dozen screw anchors (the snowy summer has created a lot of
water-ice bordering the gulleys and snow bands), numerous rock and
in-situ anchors. A fellow guide with single guest started on the lower N
Ridge then came into the NF at the Red Band. Everyone (5) summitted at
4pm then rapped the NF. Got about a half dozen abalakovs in the
twentyish rappels, left four pins and nuts and all the prussik and long
webbing. Feet started to get cold a couple of times in my leather boots,
but never went numb. It was a stunning day up high.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
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