September 2, 2005
Generally pretty good conditions over the last week, although high
alpine regions near the Continental Divide are getting progressively
snowier.
Monday and Tuesday saw a brief system pass through the area, depositing
up to 10 cm of snow at the higher elevations. Add this to the remains
of the August 23 storm and there are still some significant snow
accumulations to be found above 3300 meters. North facing routes are
most certainly covered in snow now.
Strong winds through the week have been blowing the loose snow around
and creating pockets of windslab - the kind of isolated slabs that can
catch a climber by surprise. This was reported at both the Columbia
Icefields and Lake Louise areas.
Glacier travel conditions are generally quite good (foot penetration is
low), but crevasses recently covered by new snow remain thinly bridged.
New snow accumulation on the glaciers currently begins at about 2800
meters. Crevasse and bergshrund problems are normally at their worst
during the late summer, and lots of poking and probing is required to
locate the holes right now.
No recent reports in from the Bugaboos, but conditions can be expected
to relatively good and dry, with only the highest elevations and north
facing routes covered in snow. For example, the final pitches on the
summit block of Pigeon are full of snow and ice.
Routes in the Bow Valley such as Mt. Louis and Castle Mountain were dry
and ready to go as of Friday.
The mountain forecast for this weekend is mixed, with precipitation
forecast each day. The upper flow appears to be westerly, which
generally gives drier conditions in eastern regions. The temperature
will drop on Sunday, which will no doubt result in a few more
centimetres of fresh snow falling on the Continental Divide. This will
only add to those isolated windslabs that seem to be lurking about.
There is of course lots of good climbing to be had - expect frozen and
snowy conditions on the high north aspects. Anticipate rockfall each
day on sun-exposed mixed terrain, as "Ze ice chunks melt, and ze rubble
is loozened from ze mountain" (Eiger Sanction).
The trail up Bryant Creek into Mt. Assiniboine has been closed until
further notice due to a grizzly bear encounter. If you're planning to
hike into Assiniboine this weekend - don't go this way (and bring your
gaiters, the mountain looks like winter!).
Grant Statham
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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