[MCR] Rogers Pass - Balu Pass - Nov.4/07 Ski conditions

What a change 48 hrs can make.

 

Saturdays storm triggered a good size avalanche cycle off Mt Cheops (N. Aspect) into Connaught Ck., quite a few of which ran to the end of their fans, one healthy class 3.0 for sure – all the avalanches ran during the warm phase of the storm that occurred on Sat. PM when it rained to 1800m.

 

Later Saturday night and into Sunday morning, it cooled dramatically forming a variable strength raincrust below 1800m.. Above 1800m I would estimate 30-40cm. storm snow with snowpacks in the Balu area averaging 120cm. almost all of which feels about the same strength until you hit the crust down about 60-80cm.

 

I saw a couple of shears in the storm snow down 20 and 30 cms. but they didn’t appear reactive to skiers. The snow was not light powder, but more spongy (for lack of a better term) and carvable with fairly shallow ski penetration (which is good at this time of year).

 

Weather cleared off by late afternoon and it is clear tonight so things should just tighten up even more and I imagine the surface crust will get stronger and may support better tomorrow. Today skiing out the trail (which is right were the raincrust forms) was nothing short of deadly and I can hardly recommend it to anyone. There were quite a few people up there today (at least 20) – I was happy not to find any injured on the track out (me included).

 

Cheers,

 

Scott Davis

Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Duffy lake snow and ice condition.

Out for a nice Sunday drive along the Duffy lake road.
Looks like the major snow line is around the same
elevation as the Flavele hut, with a bit of snow
lingering down a few hundred feet into the trees. At
around 7000ft things change quite a bit. It looks like
it has been snowing for a while at this elevation. All
the shrunds on the North face of Joffre are gone and
there are two large size 2 or 2.5's out from the north
glacier of Joffree and the North face of Matier. It
also looks like the wind has been quite active at
ridge crest.
It didn't look like good skiing or climbing, both of
which we were up there to do...hence the Sunday drive.
Happy hunting. Craig

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 935 0077

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary issued Nov. 1, 2007.

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 1, 2007.

 

It has been a bit of strange week in the Rockies. Lots of wind, no snow in some areas, intense snow in others and temperatures swinging well to either side of 0.

Skiing is a non event from all accounts in the Rockies. With almost no snow on the ground in most places and lots of wind in the past two days, keeping your skiis safely inside is a good idea in this neighbourhood. Ice climbers have been having a little more luck, but the early season ice probably demands mid season skills and a willingness to operate without ice screws. Almost all routes right now should be assumed to be way harder and more serious than in it's "usual" condition. The past days wind and scattered snow have also build some REAL windslabs in places. Ice climbers need to be thinking hard about the stability on and above their routes. There have been some vague reports of significantly more snow up the Icefields Parkway and along the Continental Divide. We just don't have enough information at this point to make an informed call on the avalanche danger. My trip planning right now certainly starts with the premise that I am not going anywhere without at least being able to see clearly what the conditions look like on and above my proposed route. The routes in the Bow Valley are mainly snow free and the rock is fairly dry so mixed climbing adventures probably get the highest quality rating right now. Bring LOTS of rock gear and an open mind!!! 

 

It also seems to have been a bit of a dull week in the Columbia Mountains. Mt. Fidelity(1905m- west side of Rogers Pass) got 25 cms of snow yesterday and Revelstoke Mountain resort got 10cms. The 25cms of snow at Rogers Pass was observed to be not bonding well to the crust layer below it. This crust was found on a south facing slope but may be the result of warm temperatures rather than just sun and could be found on all aspects. This is probably the main short term concern at Rogers Pass right now. They have had 100mm of precipitation(that is a lot of mixed rain and snow)in the past week and continue to see the odd BIG avalanche come out of the big alpine faces on Mt. Tupper and Mt. MacDonald.(just east of the summit) At Revelstoke they saw only small recent cornice triggered avalanches.

 

The snowpack in the Columbias is still shallow. 96cms at Fidelity is pretty skinny for this time of year. Reports of travel conditions down low are still mostly negative(Walking, skiing down with skins, way too many rocks and alders etc) If you can get above 2200m and to North aspects you may find some decent skiing but you will either be very clever with the access or paying for it somewhere. The shallow snowpack has a fair bit of strength thanks to all the warmth and rain but the rock and wood are still terrifyingly close by if you fall.

 

There may be some good late fall alpine climbing to be had somewhere, but it sure isn't in the Selkirks and I bet it is also pretty scary up at the Columbia Icefields.

 

Everywhere in the summary region sounds a bit warm for the early part of the weekend. This warmth is going to do absolutely nothing good for the early winter recreation quality.

 

Could be time to drive to Kitwanga!

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

 

 

[MCR] Some Bow Valley Ice Climbing Obs

For those of you itching to swing your ice tools here are a few observations from the last several days.

 

Arterial Spurt was very thin as of 2 days ago with water running below the ice.  We decided not to climb it but it may have fattened up slightly.

 

In the Lougheed area yesterday.  Trick or Treat is in but a bit sporting, probably more like grade 5 to 5+. Ariadne's Thread is in with a few thin spots.

A 2 pitch WI3 route to the right of Ariadne's is also in so if you like long walks there is a bit of a reward.

 

Did a drive by of R & D yesterday and it looked like it would take a few days to get fat enough to be more than a very thin ice solo.

 

Christmas Present today has a bit of water running under the ice and as Larry mentioned, it is climbable but not really protectable…. thoughtful climbing.

 

Urs Hole was still running water yesterday.

 

Seems like a few nice cool nights are still needed to get everything up and running but depending on what you are looking for there is some ice out there especially at higher elevations.  Have fun!

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
403.678.8336(cell)// 403.760.0887(home)

A person should have wings to carry them where their dreams go, but sometimes a pair of skis makes a good substitute. -Hans Gmoser-

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[MCR] Rundle Ice climbing

Climbed Christmas Present on Mt. Rundle in a stiff breeze today. Not a snowflake to move around within at least a kilometer and basically no water running even in the middle of the day.

 

The ice was pretty thin down low. Climbable and kinda fun, but rather serious with no decent gear. I had pins, clever wee cams and stubbies but was pretty much dreaming that the few pieces I got in would have held a real fall. Can't really reccommend it to smart people.

 

Everything else looked even more anorexic and the Trophy Wall needs a little more time to be pure ice climbing country. Ten Years After is probably fattest but also has some growing up to do.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide 

[MCR] Burstall Pass area

Chomping at the bit to climb some ice, we hiked in to the Drip at the Centre of the Universe on Mount Birdwood on Friday.  The approach is mostly snow free until the last couple hundred metres below the first pitch.  We were disappointed to find that the nearly solid white line visible from the road was mostly unconsolidated snow stuck to very thin, immature ice.  We bailed after 1 pitch as the sun was quickly warming up the face above us and the icicles started falling off.

The route is probably climbable but expect slow going and challenging protection on spotty thin ice.  I took us quite a while to find a pin placement worthy of a rappel anchor and there was no ice to be had for an Abalakov.

Also, any keen skiers thinking of heading to the Robertson Glacier for some early season turns might want to look at the attached photo before strapping your skis to your pack.  It looks like you would be walking all the way to the ice then spotty patches of snow between open crevasses and exposed ice.

Happy hunting.



Marc Piché
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Alpine Conditions, Lake O'Hara area

Today we climbed near Lake O'Hara to 2750 m on steep, north facing, non-glaciated terrain - looking for ice/mixed climbing.  We did not find any ice in a deep alpine gully feature which we followed for 600 m, and in general the O'Hara area seemed dry for frozen climbing. 

We did find perfect alpine climbing conditions, the face was locked up tight - full moon to start, snowdepth averaged 60-80 cm with a good crust near the surface, making for near perfect cramponing on this frozen surface. Mostly there was 10 cm of unconsolidated snow on top of this frozen surface, and sometimes up to 40 cm but short lived.  No slab felt anywhere. Very occasional breaking through the entire HS into facets on rocks underneath. Certainly no rockfall, it was cold - we were all dressed up with cold toes and fingers. Perfect.  Moderate west winds moving snow above 3000 m.

If only we didn't get shutdown by a 5 meter step of steep,blank rock with no ice and no options.

This area is 1080 km SE of Kitwanga.

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide