[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia
Mountains
Issued August 30 2007
 
Active week in the mountains despite the mixed weather.  Another 15 to 40
cms of snow fell on the 26th and 27th throughout the Rockies and the
Columbia Mountains. New storm snow fell in varying amounts down as low as
2000 metres. Robson area was reported to have had up to 40 cms of new snow
on the 24th and then additional snow from the storm Sunday and Monday.
A return to the Southwest flow has brought us warmer temperatures over the
last couple of days and has helped to melt much of the new snow below 3000m.
Higher up, on the glaciers and on North and East aspects expect to encounter
significant amounts of new snow and watch for slab formation and daytime
sloughing.
As many of the Glaciers have new snow cover beware of the many hidden
crevasses and weak bridging. Take extra care in your glacier travel.
By most reports the alpine rock routes below 3000 metres are coming back
into shape. Especially those with a southwest aspect. Temperatures in Rogers
Pass were reported today to be in the +15 range with many of the peaks
coming back into shape.
Forecast shows for the continued west flow and for precipitation on Saturday
in the Rockies but nicer to the West.
It will be a busy weekend in Skaha.
 
Dave Stark
ACMG/IFMGA
 

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] A2/Olive,St Nicholas

Good Day.

 

On the Aug 27th we climbed A2, the peak NE of Mt Athabasca. There was 25cm of low density evenly distributed recent storm snow on the Boundary Glacier and at ridge top.  There was very little wind with this precipitation and we found no shears in the snow or wind slab, there was more snow at higher elevations. The ice face on lower N aspect was in great shape for ice climbing. Many hidden holes on the upper glacier, slower going at ridge top but still great climbing.

 

This morning we climb Mt Olive and St Nic on the Wapta. Last night we lost the N flow and our cooler temps and awoke to a moderate SW flow with freezing levels rising above mountain tops.  It was raining lightly up to 10 500ft from 6:00 -10:00 and the recent 15 - 20cm of new snow on the rock and ice was wet and melting fast. There were lots of hidden holes on the regularly traveled routes from the Bow Hut and at times the wind was gusting to very strong.

 

Take care out there.

 

 

M Stewart Mountain Guide

www.cirrusalpineguides.com

[MCR] Mt Little (Aug 28)

Climbed Mt Little from Moraine Lake yesterday (aka Mt Big). It was a cold, clear night with thick valley cloud hovering at 2000m which moved out by 9am. The slippery log crossing at the end of the lake had a good centimetre of ice coating it (crampons on). The glacier had 15cm of new dry snow with almost no wind effect. The snow face (NW aspect) of Mt Little sported almost 30cm of snow from the past couple of storm cycles overlying ice. Signs of old sluffing but no new activity observed. The upper rock ridge was heavily plasters which made the scree sections easier but short rock sections a bit slower. Cold day with -2C on the summit (3139m) at 12 noon. The snow on the face was still dry on our way down but it was moist and balling on the lower tongue of the glacier by 2pm.

 

Sean Isaac

Assistant Alpine Guide

[MCR] Howsons in late August

The excellent travel conditions of the summer are persisting with cool
weather and new snow above 1900 m. The amounts are small, but enough to
make the lichen-covered rocks slippery. Both the Hut Creek bridge and
the Burnie River bridge have been rebuilt, but the one in Loft Creek is
still out. Very little ice is showing on the glaciers above 1800 m. All
deadfall has been cut out from the trails.

--

Christoph Dietzfelbinger
Mountain Guide UIAGM
Bear Enterprises Ltd.
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0
Tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Deadend Dihedral, Squamish

Deadend Dihedral has been given a good re-cleaning and
retro bolting of the belays and one protection bolt
were the pins used to be at the crux on the pitch 2.
If your not feeling up to the grade you can easily aid
the crux on the bolt and one #0 TCU to keep the climb
at a more moderate grade. This climb is excellent and
should see more traffic in its current state.
Two 35m raps to the base
Craig McGee

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 892 2259

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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Assiniboine

Climbed the N Ridge with two guests on Saturday. Put crampons on 100
meters below the Red Band and left them on to the summit and back to
100 m below the Red Band. Snowing to the level of the Hind hut when
we left yesterday, I'm guessing there was more accumulation last night.

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Assiniboine

This was forwarded from a friend, taken Aug 22nd. Probably looking a
lot snowier after today's precipitation.