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Thursday, August 31, 2006

[MCR] MCR Summary - Rockies and Interior, August 31

Mountain Conditions Summary - Rockies and Interior Ranges
August 31, 2006

The exceptionally dry conditions of this summer have come to an end, and winter has arrived to many alpine areas throughout the range.

On Wednesday the weather pattern shifted to a NW flow, bringing cooler temperatures and heavy rain to the mountains. The heaviest precipitation fell in Continental Divide areas, where reports of up to 25cm at higher elevations were received. Mt. Assiniboine and Mt. Temple are plastered in new snow. The Columbia Icefields area also received a significant dump of fresh snow - although amounts may taper further to the north, as less rain fell in Japer on than in southern areas. The eastern end of the Bow Valley also received snow, but again less than the divide, and down to about 2400 meters.

Reports are limited, but areas in Rogers Pass and the Bugaboos appear to have received a bit less snow than the central Rockies. Estimates range from 10-20cm in Glacier Park and the Bugaboos. The snow fell to treeline elevations in all areas, but has been steadily melting upwards on Thursday and this melting trend should continue. Expect snowline at about 2700 meters, lower on north aspects.

All of this means the dry alpine rock climbing is done for now, especially on shaded routes. South aspects should melt quickly, as the weekend forecast calls for blue sky and valley bottom temps in the mid 20s. Expect wet rock climbing and morning verglass over the rocks. Areas to the east and west of the Continental Divide will offer the driest rock - Ha Ling Peak and the East End of Mt. Rundle near Canmore are free of snow and drying fast.

Glacier travel has become more complicated, as just days ago the ice was bare and crevasses visible. This has changed. Be wary of thin bridges across crevasses and ensure you use some kind of pole to probe your way through any crevassed areas.

25 cm is enough snow to create a slab avalanche hazard on the higher elevation mountaineering routes, particularly when drifted by the wind. Be wary of recently developed windslabs in leeward areas (N Glacier route on Athabasca, for example). This condition should stabilize rapidly with the warm temperatures this weekend.

It looks like a glorious weekend ahead. Trees in the valley bottoms show a hint of yellow, todays temperatures were cool, while the mountains were white and glistening in the sunshine. The waning days of a beautiful summer are upon us  enjoy!

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide

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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Glacier Park Conditions - August 31

Snowline down to 8000 ft / 2400 m in Glacier Park and the Revelstoke area this
morning (August 31st). Seems to be less snow than guides are reporting seeing
in the Rockies, estimating 5-10 cm.

With a clear and warm weather forecast through the weekend, Tupper and Uto
should dry out enough to climb. Sir Donald may dry out enough as well, but if
not, the SW ridge on Uto is a worthwhile alternative.

Jordy Shepherd
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Wednesday, August 30, 2006

[MCR] Mt Stanley NF

Climbed the N face on Stanley yesterday from a bivy just below the
glacier that lys directly below the route. Gained the glacier via
morraine/ridge climbers left. Interesting glacier travel with some front
pointing up crevasse walls, after the initial trough we favoured the
climbers left hand side of things until an uninterupted ramp led to the
snow cone below the route. Bergshrund on the route quite straight
forward. Ice screw anchors all the way with the exception of one
t-slot/picket anchor mid route. A strange 10cm thick solid ice crust
overlying 2cm of air overlying the true iceface for the last 100m. North
ridge descent dry and fine, no crampons after the small summit ice
slope. Winter up there today, I'm sure, with all the snow overnight.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Neil Colgan

Same story as Marco. At the icefields on the weekend. Excellent conditions
and excellent conditions yesterday going up to to Neil Colgan and Fay area.
Instant winter overnight with about 15 cm of snow and more coming. Snow
line down to almost Moraine lake.

Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Assiniboine August 27 to 30/06

Just got back from Mt. Assiniboine today.   I climbed it on the 28th with a guest in perfect conditions once again.  No need for Ice Ax or crampons.   However today a different story!  On the way down the Gmoser highway snowed quite heavy at times.   The snow line was all the way down to  Assiniboine lodge.   Sure looked like winter out!

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide

Sunday, August 27, 2006

[MCR] Mt. Edith Cavell - East Ridge

East Ridge of Mt Edith Cavell is in great shape as of yesterday.  The lower snow/ice gullies can be passed on rock on the left.  An ice axe is still neccessary for a few short sections near the summit.  Most parties used crampons as well to keep things simple.  West ridge descent is bare and dry, runners were nice to have for the trail out.
 
Conrad Janzen
ACMG Ski & Asst Alpine Guide


A person should have wings to carry them where their dreams go, but sometimes a pair of skis makes a good substitute. -Hans Gmoser-


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[MCR] Athabasca

Climbed Silverhorn yesterday with good conditions.  Anywhere from 5 to 40 cms of new snow on top of good ice.  New snow was hiding several small holes mid way up route.  It was 6 degrees in the parking lot at 4 a.m. and stayed cool until around 11 when the sun popped out of the clouds.  North face looked to be in good shape with one party on it
 
Cheers
 
Mike Stuart   
Assistant Alpine guide