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Wednesday, August 31, 2005

[MCR] Columbia Icefields/Castle/Louis

The Assistant Alpine Guide Exam was at the Columbia Icefields Aug 30

Boundary Glacier - North Glacier circuit (and vice-versa), up to 2900 m
elevation at A2 col and below N Face of Athabasca

Up to 10 cm new snow from Aug 29 precipitation event. Variable
conditions in the old snow beneath, occasionally punchy just above firn
line, firm at higher elevations. Lots of thinly bridged crevasses. More
new snow evident at higher elevations, windloading with mod-strong
northerlies turning to westerlies at ridgetop over the day. Significant
wind pillows noted on the Silverhorn. Suspect slabs on the Silverhorn
and the ramp on the regular route.

On Aug 31 we were on Eisenhower Tower and Mount Louis. Both were dry.

Mark

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
mark@alpinism.com
www.alpinism.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Sunday, August 28, 2005

[MCR] Lake Louise area

The Assistant Alpine Guide Exam is based in the Lake Louise area this week

Aug 27
Grassi Ridge - dry
Bass Buttress, Castle Mtn - a few wet bits on the last 2 pitches

Aug 28
Mt Whyte traverse, Lake Agnes to Plain of Six - generally dry with some
remnants of snow left over from the recent storm
Mt Carnarvon - dry

The Alpine Guide exam is also active in Lake Louise and Rogers Pass

Aug 27/28 - Traverse from Collier/Vic col to Mt Whyte, with a bivy at Unnamed/
Popes col. Good alpine travel conditions, some remnants of snow from the recent
storm, isolated drifts of 20 cm with some up to 40 cm. No avalanche activity
noted.

Talked to the other AGE group on the radio who were on Tupper in Rogers Pass,
from Carnarvon. Sounded like good conditions but a front was approaching from
the NW.

Wireless internet at the Alpine Center. Cool

Mark

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
mark@alpinism.com
www.alpinism.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Lake Louise area

The Assistant Alpine Guide Exam is based in the Lake Louise area this
week

Aug 27
Grassi Ridge - dry
Bass Buttress - a few minor wet bits on the last 2 pitches

Aug 28
Mt Whyte traverse, Lake Agnes to Plain of Six - generally dry with some
remnants of snow left over from the recent storm
Mt Carnarvon - dry

The Alpine Guide exam is also active in Lake Louise and Rogers Pass

Aug 27/28 - Traverse from Collier/Vic col to Mt Whyte, with a bivy at
Unnamed/Popes col. Good alpine travel conditions, some remnants of snow
from the recent storm, isolated drifts of 20 cm with some up to 40 cm.
No avalanche activity noted.

Talked to the other AGE group on the radio who were on Tupper in Rogers
Pass, from Carnarvon. Sounded like good conditions but a front was
approaching from the NW.

Wireless internet at the Alpine Center. Cool

Mark

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
mark@alpinism.com
www.alpinism.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Thursday, August 25, 2005

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Report - Aug 25

Mountain Conditions Summary - Rockies and Interior Ranges
Issued August 25, 2005

A bit of a change to mountain conditions this past week  especially on the eastern side of the Rockies. A typical third week of August snowstorm crossed all regions mid week, leaving various amounts of new snow behind.

This upslope storm was focused mainly on the Bow Valley and Lake Louise areas. Regions to the west and north were spared the full brunt. Rogers Pass, the Columbia Icefields and the Bugaboos received about 5-10 cm, which was melting away rapidly on Thursday. Expect good conditions in these areas over the coming days, with fresh snow lingering on the north facing terrain.

In the Lake Louise area, observations the day after the storm put the snowline at about 2200m, just down into the treeline. Depth increased rapidly with elevation to about 30 cm of snow observed at 2500 m. Add to this the drifting effects of wind, and pockets of new snow up to 70 cm can be expected at higher elevations.

With the good weather forecast, its likely to be a great weekend and hopefully some of this recent snow will settle and/or melt away. Alpine climbing in the Lake Louise group will require some serious thought - with drifted snow in excess of 75 cm in the alpine, and a return to warm temperatures . . . put your avalanche thinking cap on! Stick to ridge crests and watch out on the big faces. No doubt the mountains will be shedding the new snow over the next few days.

Be wary of steep, sun-exposed terrain where both avalanches and rockfall may be a concern. On the glaciers, watch for crevasses bridged with a thin skin of recent snow  its probably difficult to see crevasses that may have been visible just days ago.

In summary  it looks like an awesome weekend to be out, things have changed but lots of good options for alpine and rock climbing still exist. Conditions are better in Rogers Pass, the Columbia Icefields and the Bugs. In the Lake Louise area the big serious north face routes will be out of shape, but moderate routes and low elevation (or front range) south/west facing rock should clean off nicely.

Lets hope this sets us up nicely for good mixed climbing in September!

Grant Statham


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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Blowdown Creek, Duffy Lk

The 21st -23rd was up at the Blowdown Creek Cabin off the Duffy Lk road. Distinct lack of insects probably due to the cold temps and snow that fell on the morning of the 23rd. The road to the trail head is in good shape, looks like they where hauling last year and is 2 wheel drivable. The trail head is now at 0557045 5579827 NAD 27 (follow the main line and its just after a creek crossing, no flagging at start). From there its a well worn and marked trail up the S/SWside of valley to the alpine.

Dave Sarkany
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Bugaboos

Hi All,
Left the Bugs yesterday morning (24th)and there was much less snow than in
the Rockies. Most of it had already melted off the sunny aspects by around
10:00 AM but I am sure that the higher shady stuff (Bugaboo NE ridge) will
have some snow on it for a few days.
Cheers,

Marc Piché
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Wednesday, August 24, 2005

[MCR] Mt Niblock, Aug 24

Via the scramble route from Lake Agnes. Better weather in the Lake
Louise group than in the Bow Valley today. New snow above 7000'. 30cm at
8000' varying up to 70cm where it has been wind drifted. Very wintery
above 9000', lots of verglas and dry snow being blown around. On the way
down, at 15:00, snow below 9000'was setteling quickly. No avalanches
observed.

Happy trails
Barry Blanchard

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.