Spent a half dozen days rock climbing in the Front Ranges in Jasper National
Park. The week of August 24 began hot and windy but quickly deteriorated to
much cooler weather with several bouts of showers accompanied by snow at
higher elevations. High temperatures were typically in the teens and winds
were moderate or even strong throughout that period. This snowy, windy
weather is what led to the fatalities on Mt. Athabasca of course and was
part of the reason why I was rock climbing instead of dealing with wind
slabs in the alpine.
Peaks like Edith Cavell got pasted several times during this period and I am
guessing the previously dry conditions are now much less than stellar. Even
the perennially dry Colin Range got snow on two occasions during that week.
On both occasions the snow made a valiant attempt at melting off only to be
coated in snow yet again.
I cannot say how things fared over the long weekend as I was chased home by
a storm on Friday night after two weeks in the hills. I suspect that once
again the higher peaks along the divide got plastered but I cannot say for
sure. Perhaps Peter will report on his trip to the Columbia Icefields area
when he gets home (he is a regular reporter from that area.)
Climbed Morro Peak via the NWMC Mountaineers Route on the 24th. As reported
earlier this summer, the fist pitch had some bolts added and is now simply
clip and go (bring a screamer for the first piton). A dead battery precluded
any further work on the route. The second and third pitch are still easy but
runout on more loose rock. 4th and 5th pitches remain as always and bring
small to medium cams and medium wires for pitch four.
Put in a new route at Morro Slabs - River Rock on August 25 - see below.
August 26 climbed the diagonal route on Perdrix. Very cold and windy weather
had us wearing toques and gloves all throughout the ascent. Route was
entirely dry and was not affected by the recent snows due to its location on
the eastern edge of the park and its slightly lower elevation than peaks
along the divide. All of the peaks to the east of the Colin Range did not
get significantly affected by the recent rains and snows (not sure how they
were affected over the long weekend.) All of the fixed gear is still in
place on the route as reported in July. Descended the scrambles route.
Nothing to report other than the fact that there is not any water on the
route any longer as all of the snows feeding the gullies on the east side
have finally completely dried up.
August 27, 28 climbed in Hidden Valley (Alaska Bob, New Salt, Cadet,
Emporium Express, Slab Emporium). All of these routes are in good shape
after the earlier cleaning and bolting session. Alaska Bob is now a lot more
fun than before although it could use another two or three bolts, but no
matter, it has always been that way. Didn't do the rappels as the winds were
heinous yet again. Had Hidden Valley to ourselves for both days. Cold windy
weather may have deterred the crowds.
Put in two more new routes at Morro Slabs - River Rock on August 29. All
three of the new routes this week were put in with Jo Winfield. The River
Rock is the more northerly part of Morro Slabs that ends in the water. Years
ago folks used to practice trad climbing here but these days the slab is
rarely used except for SARTECH rescue training. There are now five bolted
routes set up for leading. They are slab routes that require a rappel
descent to the water's edge.You then pull the ropes for a full commitment
and lead your way out. VERY COOL.
Due to the potential for the rappel ropes to pull some loose rock onto your
head, always wear your helmet when climbing these routes. The approach is
under five minutes. All five existing bolted routes are listed from north to
south:
River Dance 5.7/5.8 - 8 bolts 30m
Dave Devin, C. Shokoples July 21, 2004
Rappel off Metolius rappel hangers on one of the northern most set of bolts.
Follow hangers to a two bolt station.
You Gonna Climb or You Gonna Swim? 5.5/5.6 - 6 bolts 30m
Jeremy Mackenzie, C. Shokoples July 1, 2004
Rappel off Metolius rappel hangers on the next set of bolts beside River
Dance to a two bolt station.
Deep Blue 5.5 - 7 bolts 25m
Jo Winfield, Cyril Shokoples August 24, 2008
Begin below the southern most of two large diameter metal posts drilled in
the slab during bridge construction in the 1960s. Rappel down to a large
grassy ledge to a two bolt belay. A number of older and easy trad routes can
also be accessed from this ledge and belay station as well. The new bolted
belay now makes this a reasonable proposition. The trad routes require
cleaning as the cracks fill in with dirt quickly each year and never get
climbed these days. In addition, the trad routes have some issues with loose
rock which the bolted routes avoid.
Turquoise Blue Water 5.8 or 5.5 variant - 9 bolts 31m
Jo Winfield, Cyril Shokoples August 29, 2008
Rappel from an older two bolt anchor near the far south margin of the River
Rock. Follow the bolts down to a small rock ledge with dual bolts just 30cm
above the high water line below you. A 60m rope JUST reaches with rope
stretch, so be sure you have knots in the end of your rope! This is the most
cool belay station of the five routes here. An old ring piton at the belay
reminds you that trad routes can also be done from here if you bring gear.
In the 1970s and 1980s I climbed three or four easy trad routes on either
side of where the bolts now sit. Others have done likewise over the years
(perhaps as early as the 1960s) but nothing was ever recorded. If you follow
the bolts closely and directly you get a nice 5.8 slab route. If you wander
back and forth you can bring the grade down to perhaps 5.5.
Aquasizes 5.6 - 8 bolts & 1 old piton 29m
Jo Winfield, Cyril Shokoples August 29, 2008
This route is the farthest south along this section of the rock that goes
into the river and as such is the only route that can readily be accessed
without a rappel. You can also rappel from the same bolts as Turquoise Blue
Water. Once again, I have done old trad routes on both sides of the bolts
dating back to the mid 1970s but they get done so rarely that I don't feel
badly about changing the esthetics with some bolts. There are not any belay
bolts at the lower station at present but I hope to rectify this some time
this autumn. Until then bring some gear to build a belay.
Stay warm...
Cyril Shokoples
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.rescuedynamics.ca
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