[MCR] MCR Readers Poll

Hello Mountain Conditions Report (MCR) readers,
 
The ACMG believes that the publication of the Mountain Conditions Report is
an important part of its responsibility to protect the public interest in
mountain guiding. As such, we are approaching you, the MCR reader, to
provide us with input regarding whether this tool meets your needs. Please
take a few moments to apply your critical judgement to determining how we
can make this work better for you.

View the MCR Readers Poll at:
http://www.acmg.ca/MCR_PublicPoll.html

Note: If link does not work, copy and paste it into your browsers address
bar.

Thanking you sincerely in advance. 
Peter Tucker
ACMG Executive Director
ed@acmg.ca

 
 

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Athabasca

Climb the ramp yesterday.
 
 
Strong overnight freeze 0 degrees getting on the glacier just before sunrise.
 
Most glacier bare until one reaches Nunatak (big rock in midle of glacier).

Jeff led the way on the ramp making steps in what felt like pretty good conditions, the sun had warmed up the ramp for about half an hour before we got on it, making the snow just soft enough...just right. 
 
On the track accross the ramp there are rocks from the silverhorn (large blocks)!!!!!!
 
We decended the AA col due to mid-day warming.
 
The gully was dry. At the bottom of the gully the ice was coverd by mud and scree.  
 
I felt going down the AA col that the scree was moving in larger amounts than usual. In fact I have been noticing this a bit more in general this year!

Patrick Delaney
AAG Yamnuska Mountain Adventures



> From: mcr-request@informalex.org
> Subject: MCR Digest, Vol 28, Issue 5
> To: mcr@informalex.org
> Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 12:01:02 -0400
>
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Howsons 5 August 07 (Public Mountain Conditions Report)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 17:46:38 -0700
> From: Public Mountain Conditions Report <mcr@informalex.org>
> Subject: [MCR] Howsons 5 August 07
> To: mcr@informalex.org
> Message-ID: <46B66F6E.4040909@bearmountaineering.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> On a guided trip to the Middle Solitaire Peak (2340 m), I found
> excellent conditions. The firn line on the glaciers is at about 1600 m,
> and just small patches of ice are starting to show at tha elevation. The
> snow was firm in the morning and had less than boot top penetration at 2
> pm. The untouched rock was dry with the exception of the north faces
> above 2400 m where little snow remains. Sunny and warm with excellent
> crevasse coverage. Crampons were not necessary. Schrunds are starting to
> be wide and many must be circumnavigated on rock.
>
> --
>
> Christoph Dietzfelbinger
> Mountain Guide UIAGM
> Bear Enterprises Ltd.
> Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0
> Tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854
> info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
> Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
>
>
> End of MCR Digest, Vol 28, Issue 5
> **********************************

---

Explore the seven wonders of the world Learn more!

[MCR] Alberta

I went to climb Mt. Alberta- the Japanese route from August 4 to 7 but got chased off the mountain by the weather.  I decided from the hut to climb the west ridge of Mt. Woolley.  An okay route if you like choss and also a good alternative if the South couloir on Wooley is not in shape or if you didn’t get a good freeze.  The Lower part of the South face looks very dirty!

The crevasses on the glacier above the hut are definitely starting to sag and open up.  It is not advisable to travel on that glacier unroped.

Regards,

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Tantalus

Tantalus:

As reported previously snow travel remains very good regardless of daytime
warming. Snow coverage is noteably better for the date than any season
over the last decade… Estimate 2+ meters of seasonal snowpack remaining on
the Serratus glacier as low as 1900m! Little if any exposed ice above
1500m. As a result, route access from the Habrel hut, all of which
requires glacier travel, remains largely problem free.

Typically problematic Schrunds such as the W face Dioni remain barely
discernible.

Routes such as the West Face of Serratus, typically melted out by this
time of year, at least for the time being still exist.

N face routes on Serratus remain in excellent condition. Again little if
any exposed ice the entire width of the face with all Schrunds easily
negotiable. Steep snow climbing remained excellent well into mid morning.
The last half of the E ridge Serratus, accessed from its N face, didn't
meet any of the loose rock bad rap received in the Mclane guide and made
for an interesting and challenging 4th class ridge climb.

Except for a recent significant rock fall event from its NE buttress,
coverage and snow travel conditions made for straight forward access to E
ridge of Alpha from the N.

Of note with the better than average snow coverage is rocky areas which
would normally have been well clear of snow are just now melting out
providing a surprising a prolific rock fall hazard.

Kudos to the Habrel Hut which is a magnificent addition to the range. Key
beta is to bring a Colman canister for the Barbi…gotta like it!

Keith Reid, MG

[MCR] Howsons 5 August 07

On a guided trip to the Middle Solitaire Peak (2340 m), I found
excellent conditions. The firn line on the glaciers is at about 1600 m,
and just small patches of ice are starting to show at tha elevation. The
snow was firm in the morning and had less than boot top penetration at 2
pm. The untouched rock was dry with the exception of the north faces
above 2400 m where little snow remains. Sunny and warm with excellent
crevasse coverage. Crampons were not necessary. Schrunds are starting to
be wide and many must be circumnavigated on rock.

--

Christoph Dietzfelbinger
Mountain Guide UIAGM
Bear Enterprises Ltd.
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0
Tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] freeway area, Squamish

Out today on freeway.
Routes is dry and in good shape. the only thing to
note was that almost every bolt, was loose, both
anchors and protection bolts. We hand tightened them,
but if your heading up you may want to bring up a
small wrench and give them all tighten.
"Men holding hands" was still wet for a few feet after
the crux, but the key crux clipping hold and all the
hard climbing looked dry.
"Western dihedral" had a big wet seep coming down the
first pitch.
All other routes in the area looked dry.
have Fun. Craig McGee

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 892 2259

____________________________________________________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain condition summery for the west coast

With the return to more summer like weather
conditions on the west coast more people are finally
heading back into the hills.
Snow coverage on the glaciers is still very good for
this time of year, but do not forget that things are
changing fast with the warm temps.
Travel on the snow has generally been very good no
mater what time of the day your out at.
Creeks are still higher than normal so if your trip
involves a river crossing you may want to do some more
research about current access.
Most multi pitches are now dry in Squamish, however
after all that rain some are a bit dirty from water
flow,so you may want to take a nut tool each to clean
out the crack a bit.
Have fun. Craig McGee

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 892 2259

____________________________________________________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.