[MCR] Rogan's Gully and Coire Dubh Integrale

Monday Dec 11: Climbed Rogan's Gully on Cascade. Generally in good shape and surprisingly not very wet inspite of the warmth. The big funnels above the route have already slid earlier this year and avalanche debris can be found before the last pitch and in the exit bowl. Cascade was not looking very inviting. There is a fair bit of water running underneath the ice and I bet the two crux pitches would be scary right now.

 

Tuesday Dec 12: Climbed Coire Dubh on Loader Mountain. The ice climbing is in good shape - a bit wet in places but easily avoided. A couple of intense snow squalls passed through during the climb and deposited about 5 cm of snow, which made the initial rock pitch for the integral finish quite tricky. For those who don't know, the bolt that is mentioned in the guide book and which used to protect the crux move has been gone for a while, but one can get decent trad gear placement instead. We descended from the tree after the crux pitch due to the adverse conditions on the rocks.

 

Good luck out there,

Jorg Wilz

 

Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA / UIAGM)

1-800 506-7177 or (001) 403 678 2717

www.ontopmountaineering.com

 

[MCR] Shooting Star and Mixed Master

Yesterday guided ‘Shooting Star’ on Mt. Wilson. The route is in good shape: mostly dry and solid. The first pitch will not last long with some sunny days. The route is in WI5/5+ shape right now. It snowed lightly all day with moderate winds and mild temps. Isolated slabs were forming throughout the day.

 

Today guided ‘Mixed Master’ near the Weeping Wall. The route is in fat shape. The crux is the 5.8 traverse pitch and the ice pitches feel like WI4 as they are very hooked out and protect well. 10cm ice screws are useful.

 

There were flurries and strong SW winds throughout the day. The snow was moving around a lot. I would be hesitant to climb under the snow bowls on Mt. Wilson or Cirrus in the coming days.

 

Rob Owens

Alpine Guide

[MCR] Bear Spirit, Dec 12

Enjoyed a cragging day at Bear Spirit today (Dec 12) with some friends. The trail in is well packed but very icy in spots making for slippery walking (and embarrassing wipe-outs). The ice up the approach gully is a thin shell with lots of holes in it and running water behind; however, it is short and easy and if all else fails can be avoided by yarding up the fixed rope on the left. It should repair itself once we get some colder temperatures again.

 

The two main WI4 pillars are touching down and very wet.  We also climbed the mixed routes Hocus Pocus, No Love and X-Mass Chopping which all had their "normal" amounts of ice. The other mixed routes (All Canadian Torque, Child Care, Woody, Scratch and Win, Spoiler / Spoiled Rotten) all looked to have plenty of ice on them as well.

 

Some of the tat around the trees on top are starting to show wear and might need to be replaced soon so bring some extra sling material just in case. It snowed off and on all day and by the time we left over 5cm of fresh snow covered our tracks from the morning.

 

Sean Isaac

Assistant Alpine Guide

[MCR] Malignant Mushroom, Dec 8

Climbed Malignant Mushroom yesterday in the Ghost. Plastic blue-goo offered one swing sticks but the top third was a little sun-leached making screw placements less than ideal. By noon the sun had escaped the clouds and was heating up the sunny amphitheatre. We started up our second route, the mixed corner immediately left (Perfect Day M6), but quickly retreated only a few moves up because a small hanging icicle on the left margin of Malignant Mushroom crashed down. We decided it was getting too warm so called it quits and left. By the time we returned back to the car at 2pm it was 8 C; way too warm for ice climbing, especially in the sun. Warm temps are still forecasted for the front ranges tomorrow and Monday so be prudent of where you decide to seek out ice. In short, avoid sunny ice in the ghost and Kananaskis Country until the temperatures become more seasonal. I was at Haffner today and it is slightly cooler towards the west in the main range.

 

Sean Isaac

Assistant Alpine Guide

[MCR] some jasper ice

Just a note on some of the quickie ice climbs close to jasper.
BS canyon (Gorbie Canyon) is in good shape! The waterfall out of the
hole is in as well.
Schwarz's on the west highway is in, fat as well.
Edge of the world is good, a bit wet on upper pitch but can be avoided.
Peter...

Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0
780 852 3237
www.incentre.net/pamann
pamann@incentre.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mixed Master

Climbed the route today with Kristen.  Fantastic shape with lots of ice and good snow on the mixed pitches.  Good trail into base - 2 other parties on route.  Last pitch felt like it was short but steep grade 4 with a good rest and soft ice.  Pictures on gravsports dot com.   One of the best routes around...

 

Have fun!

 

Mike Stuart

Assistant Alpine Guide 

m_stuart@telus.net

 

[MCR] Mt Wilson Ice Climbing

Climbed Dancing With Chaos with Dr Jim Wilson today. It's a great day out on
a rarely formed climb.

Be aware that there are two approach trails within 20 meters of each other,
6.8 km past the David Thompson Highway coming from Lake Louise. The left
hand trail leads to Shooting Star, the right hand one leads to Dancing With
Chaos.

Enjoy,

Grant Meekins
Alpine Guide
gmeekins@telus.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.