Yesterday guided ‘Shooting Star’ on Mt. Wilson. The route is in good shape: mostly dry and solid. The first pitch will not last long with some sunny days. The route is in WI5/5+ shape right now. It snowed lightly all day with moderate winds and mild temps. Isolated slabs were forming throughout the day.
Today guided ‘Mixed Master’ near the Weeping Wall. The route is in fat shape. The crux is the 5.8 traverse pitch and the ice pitches feel like WI4 as they are very hooked out and protect well. 10cm ice screws are useful.
There were flurries and strong SW winds throughout the day. The snow was moving around a lot. I would be hesitant to climb under the snow bowls on Mt. Wilson or Cirrus in the coming days.
Rob Owens
Alpine Guide