[MCR] West Coast Mountain Condition report Sept 21/06

Mountain Condition report for Sept 21/06

Not that many reports coming in lately.
A period of colder than average weather and
precipitation has amounted up to 20cm's of new snow
above 8000ft. Below 8000ft most new snow has melted
off.
The main concern right now is probably the new snow
that is thinly covering and hiding the late season
crevasses. It was a warm/ dry summer season and there
are many crevasses that are open were there usually
isn't.
Another concern in the next few days will be rockfall
with the forcasted warm weather coming this weekend.
Be aware when traveling under cliffs for the next few
days as the snow melts off.

This could be the last spell of good weather coming up
and the rock should dry off after a day or two, so
have fun.

Craig McGee, Mountain Guide

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Bow Valley Rock

Hello,

 

Just finished 5 days of rock guiding in the Bow Valley. Here's what we found, If you are still thinking of rock climbing.

The Back of the Lake is in reasonable shape no snow. (Sept. 17+19th)

Gooseberry was dry. (climbed Sept.18th)

The climbing on Mothers Day was dry (climbed Sept.18th) however the traverse over to the Rogan's gulley descent had a lot of snow (up to knee deep). We stayed higher than the regular trail to avoid the edge of the cliff.

Wasootch is dry.(Sept.20th)

 

Have Fun!

 

Jesse de Montigny

Assistant Alpine Guide

Assistant Ski Guide

[MCR] Bugaboos

Just got out of the Bugaboos this morning. Just under
one meter of new snow at Applebee campground
(8000ft).....yes one meter!!!. 75cms at the Kain hut.
5 cms at the parking lot.
Craig McGee, Mountain Guide

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Wapta

Shaun King and I had a group at Bow Hut the last 3 days.

Light but steady snowfalls during the period. Total accumulated storm
snow of 20 cm on the hut deck. 30 cm on the Onionskin yesterday,
suspect up to a total of 40 cm storm snow there today. Light to
moderate winds, out of the NE on the Onionskin yesterday.

-8 at the hut this morning. Freezing levels lowering the further south
and east we drove on the way home today and 20 cm of snow on my deck in
Banff when I got home.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Revelstoke and Rogers Pass Conditions - September 15

The snowline is down to 1800m (below Grizzly Shoulder elevation)in Rogers Pass
this morning, and to 'The Burn' on Mount Macpherson south of Revelstoke.

There was 10 cm of snow in Balu Pass yesterday morning (Sept 14) on my way into
Nakimu Cave, and with last night's storm there is probably 20+ cm on the ground
today (Sept 15).

Conditions aren't very good for quartzite alpine climbing.

Jordy Shepherd
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary, September 15th, 2006

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Interior Ranges. Issued september 15th, 2006.

 

Winter arrived with a wet slap in the face early Wednesday morning. Most areas have reported at least 20cms of snow above 2500m's and at even lower elevations in Rogers Pass and the Lake O'Hara area. Approximately 10cms on the highway at the Columbia icefields and in Icefall Brook. The big winner is the Conrad Kain hut in the Bugaboos with around 1 meter of wet storm snow as of this morning. 

 

Winds were variable but lots of snow was moving around and we should assume big fresh windslabs are just waiting for a trigger up high. The storm came in with light winds so it is quite possible there is a layer of soft snow on top of the rock, ice and dirt and hard slabs above that in lots of places. I had to walk carefully around a big fat pillow well over 1m deep 10m's wide and 30m's long just below Abbotts Pass hut yesterday and it was spooky. The consequences of a ride in an avalanche right now would be very nasty. Lots of rocks to hit and open crevasses and bergschrunds to be stuffed into.

 

Glacier travel will most likely be poor this weekend. Conditions were as dry as I have ever seen by Tuesday, september 5th. Enough snow fell to cover crevasses but it will not settle in time to show where they are or to make effective bridges.

 

Alpine rockclimbing is probably a write-off for the weekend. I have 20cms of wet snow in my yard in Canmore at 11am so I can't imagine even Yamnuska will be dry any time soon.

 

To complete this cheery picture, count on a ugly period of rockfall if this snow melts significantly on Sunday and Monday.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Watchtower Creek, Victoria North

Up Watchtower Creek and Victoria North Glacier to the North Peak
yesterday. Creek entrance is about 100m uphill from the new "5 KM" sign
on the right side of the O'Hara road (on a tree). Large serac calving
off of the climber's right hand side of the glacier in the previous
several days, ran to the creek, spooky. Gained the glacier via three low
angle 5th class pitches up the ice tongue. 1st steep step passed on the
climber's left side via and ice/gravel grovel. Favored the left side of
things thereafter. Saw a house sized serac collapse on the right side
about half way up, exciting to watch from the left side. Finished up a
nice coulior to the Collier/Victoria col. Upper Victoria ridge in fine
shape. The most incredible broken spectre I've ever seen on the summit
at 4pm, 3-4 complete halos of rainbow around our big shadows. Descent
via the Plain of Six glaciers, some crevasse weaving, but not that bad
really. Lake Louise taxi service can pick you up from the Chateau and
drive you back to O'Hara parking for $35.00, great deal at the end of a
long day.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.