New Blogger-based archive for the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides' public Mountain Conditions Report mailing list. See http://acmg.ca/mcr for details.
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Tuesday, November 30, 2010
[MCR] Slocan Ice - Selkirks
Monday, November 29, 2010
[MCR] Evan Thomas and Louise Falls
Climbed in Evan Thomas on Saturday and Louise Falls on Sunday. Chantilly is in decent shape and growing, still thinner then normal at the top but fine climbing. Snowline was climbed but reported to be very thin and hard to protect for the first 30 meters. Moonlight saw numerous ascents. It looks hard to break up the first 60 meters into two pitches right now. Louise Falls is still not in. There is a tube touching down but it needs more time. The cold snap released some daggers, but there is still huge hangfire up there and it is hard to climb anywhere on the first 2 pitches that wouldn't be in the line of fire. Sarah Hueniken Alpine Guide |
Sunday, November 28, 2010
[MCR] Rogers Pass - Asulkan Brook
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[MCR] Bow Summit
A short day at Bow Summit.
Quite a mixed bag for snow conditions - weak and shallow below treeline, with treeline and alpine features having everything from hard slab, to no snow at all.
Found on average 40 cm at treeline with the Nov 6th rain crust down 20 cm. Facets above the the rain crust but no test results due to the weak nature of the snowpack. Small surface hoar in protected areas below treeline.
The main concern was early season hazards though, (especially in the alpine) with a significant number of rocks just being covered. I looked to well supported wind scoops that seemed to have a little better coverage and skied cautiously around any anomaly on the surface.
Better to be writing this - than in the garage ptexing the bases.
Darcy Chilton
ACMG Ski Guide
Saturday, November 27, 2010
[MCR] Spray River Falls, Banff
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.banffmountainguides.com
Friday, November 26, 2010
[MCR] Canmore Junkyards and Johnston Canyon
Junk Yards are in pretty good early season shape, with both lines of the Scottish Gully being in, although the left line is lean and “mixed” at the bottom. The main face is still lacking the steep curtain below the characteristic tree but the rest looked in good shape.
Johnston today with a little bit of sun in the early pm and temps warming to -5C. Surprisingly, the main water fall is currently well doable and relatively easy to get to, most likely a result if the recent 5 days of deep freeze, which was also responsible for the massive debris at the bottom of the “curtain wall”. The left most of the steep columns survived the cold snap and was lead today by someone more courageous than me but it can also be relatively easily accessed from the top platform to set up a top rope. The right side offers a number of moderate lines with the top being too thin for screws, but fortunately it’s not very steep.
Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA)
OnTop ltd.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
[MCR] Monashees-west of the Perry River-North of the TCH
1st day on skis at Mustang Powder in the western monashees. Numerous snowpack tests between 2100 and 1650m found no significant shears at present and an average of around 1m snow to around 1700m. Below 1700 the snow depth tapers off dramatically and skiing gets boney. Ski quality was surprisingly good on planar slopes above 1700, especially considering all the winds of the past week. Higher up the wind has done more damage and we had some rock issues in some high treeline, wind effected features. Windslabs are probably lurking somewhere treeline and above.
Generally, the snowpack has weakened during the cold weather and it will be interesting to see how it reacts to the 1st big snow load.
Still, a much better snowpack than I had feared.
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
laristan@telus.net
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
[MCR] Selkirks/ Monashees surrounding Revelstoke
Monday, November 22, 2010
[MCR] Coast - Whistler Backcountry
Snow depths were variable, 100cm at Flute/Oboe col (1850m), 90cm at Singing Pass (1700m), and 175cm on Whirlwind Glacier (2300m). The early November crust was around 1cm thick and buried between 35-60cm at these locations. A thicker crust was found down 55-105cm at these locations and remained well consolidated down to the ground. Many rocky areas such as the moraines on the way to Whirlwind had as little as 10cm of snow. Definately still early season conditions, so stick to slopes with smooth surfaces under the snow if you don't want to hit any rocks.
In the alpine we were surprised by the lack of wind effect encountered between the hut and Overlord, which seemed to disappear 100m below the peaks. We found fantastic skiing in facetted powder on Overlord Glacier, Whirlwind Glacier, and Banana Chute on Mt Fissile. The worst wind effect encountered was between Flute and Oboe with a mix of breakable/supportable crust and sastrugi to 30cm from the outflow winds. With the winds encountered today I suspect the skiing conditions have deteriorated in the alpine.
Temperatures were unseasonably cold, -27 deg outside the hut this morning at 8:30am. Winds up to around 40km/hr from the North near Lesser Flute this morning.
The early November crust provided excellent step kicking on the SW aspect of Mt Fissile (Banana Chute approach), the best travel we'd ever encountered.
One size 1.5-2 natural slab avalanche observed on a SSW aspect in steep terrain near Mt Pattison around 2200m from the past few days, suspect triggered by wind loading on the early November crust. Isolated windslabs were observed, but relatively easy to detour such as the convex roll at the top of Banana Chute.
Crevasses were generally obvious except near ridge-tops, where moderate wind effects were observed. Specifically I'm thinking of the NE side of the Fissile/Whirlwind col. where it was difficult to tell the difference between crevasses and wind pillows.
A note on passing the rockband west of Overlord Mountain as shown as the normal route on Baldwin's map: Last time I rappelled down here I remembered thinking it looked relatively easy to scramble up. This is definately NOT the case, it was very tricky in ski boots and I was relieved when my buddy through me a handline to help me up. It looked like there might be some easier options further to the west.
Alex Geary (ACMG Assistant Ski Guide & Assistant Rock Guide)
[MCR] skating in Jasper Nov 22
skating at the beaver lodge pond out by Snaring and also on lake Edith.
We measured the ice depth in several spots and never had less than 4
inches thick. Beautiful out in the sun!!
Matt Reynolds
ACMG Mountain Guide
Sunday, November 21, 2010
[MCR] Maligne Lake area revisited
in the Eastern Slopes of the Rockies.
-23 in the parking lot, -20 at the summer trail turnoff and though we
were expecting (hoping for!) some kind of an inversion in the
sunshine at treeline, the thermometer still read -23.
Still shallow below treeline and though people have been "making
turns" you would be best to stick to the road below 1950metres.
A test profile at treeline had a 52cm snowpack. The top 10CM was
newer snow but quite faceted. The midpack was larger facets which sat
on top of the rain crust which is about 10cm off the ground.
The upper layers were still very unconsolidated and couldn't get any
shears or compressions on top of the rain crust.
We did not find the surface hoar layer as our tests gave no clean shears.
A Rutchblock test was done at 2250 metres, NE aspect, ~50-60cm
snowpack. the results were a score of 5 below the rain crust.
No natural activity observed.
In general the cold temps have really progressed the faceting process
in most of the snowpack.
We would suspect that there are areas in the alpine where wind affect
will have stiffened up the surface layers and it could be more reactive,
..however not that much wind affect was observed in this drainage.
With these weak layers sitting on top of a good sliding
crust......next big storm should be interesting.
Peter Amann
Mountain Guide
Peter Amann
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Saturday, November 20, 2010
[MCR] Roger's Pass
rock and weed hazard. The alder weeds were extremely bad in the lower part of Hospital gully accessing Ursus Minor/Hospital Bowl area. There were quite a few parties skiing there the last two days and pretty much all the good available lines are now tracked out. I hit about 12 rocks today, some on the skintrack, some on the runs, and some on the trail out. It would take about 30-40 more cms to bring it up to "normal" good skiing.
Good luck and be safe.
Russell Lybarger Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Lizard Range - South Rockies
The most significant thing about conditions right now is the push of arctic air blowing in with moderate easterly winds. A temperature of -17 was recorded at 2000m.
There is good coverage in most places, with snow depth about 120cm -140cm in sheltered areas at treeline elevations (1800-2000m). Because of the winds, snow conditions were highly variable depending on aspect and terrain features. Most open areas, even well below treeline, were quite wind affected. But in lee areas in the trees the skiing quality was excellent, with calf-deep low density powder over a relatively supportive mid-pack.
There is currently lots of wind transport occurring because of the significant amount of low density storm snow that has fallen over the past few days. Hard and soft wind slabs are forming in lee-loaded and cross-loaded areas. Today these wind slabs were not reactive to skiers and no natural avalanche activity was observed but this will likely change if the winds continue. There was evidence of a small avalanche cycle to size 2 that occurred during the last storm 2-3 days ago but no fracture lines were observed because the start zones have since re-loaded.
Despite the cold and wind, there is still some great skiing to be had. Overall I was pleasantly surprised with the conditions for November.
Happy Turns,
Jeff Volp
Ski Guide
Kimberley, BC
Friday, November 19, 2010
[MCR] Selkirks: Kootenay Pass
snow. Another 8cm fell during the day and coupled with the ~30 new
over the last few days, there's now just enough to hide largeish
boulders.
There was little wind so the new snow is soft (4F-F) and the bond with
the underlying rain crust (now down amywhere from 50-80cm) is slowly
strenghtening. Field snow depths ranged from 80-120cm.
Numerous creeks still open sometimes require circuitous routes. Heavy
trailbreaking with 40cm ski penetration.
Ken Bélanger, Asst. Ski Guide
Shaun King, Mountain Guide
www.mountainsense.ca
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Thursday, November 18, 2010
[MCR] Selkirks, Balu Headwall, Nov 18
-HS (height of Snow) at 2250m (on the SE ridge of Ursus) : 110-120cm
-settled snowpack with 30cm of Fist (F) resistance new snow (HN) over 4 finger, then 1 finger midpack
-the bottom 1/3 is a dense layer of Pencil (P) resistance with the early season raincrust (RC) prominent on top of this & about 5cm thick
-compression tests had a Medium result (CTM 15) down 20cm in the HN with a Progressive Collapse (PC) nature to the shear, as well as a Hard result (CTH 25) with a Sudden Planar result down 50cm. This was at an interface of 4f over 1f snow.
-no results to compression tests on the crust
-no results to skicuts. no settlements felt
All in all, a good start to the season, tho that raincrust could have different reactive qualities in other areas. It's worth the dig down to have a look at & it stands out quite well (@ 2250m) in the pit I dug.
Coverage was developing well, tho there was still quite a bit of surface roughness evident in the snowpack below 2100m. The creeks are still open, but more & more snowbridges are appearing.
I didn't get a very good look into the higher Alpine start zones as the visibility was quite limited at times, tho from what I could see, I didn't see any Natural activity.
It was a happy shortbus load of friendly folk out enjoying the new treats today. Ski Pen (PS) was about 30+ cm & occasionally one would touch down on grass or worse, rock, at lower elevations. The trail is in good shape for early season and as usual, provides lots of fun luging out at the end of the day, especially on tired, early season legs!
dave healey, asg
pic 1 | balu headwall
pic 2 | ursus bowl exit
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
[MCR] Kootenay Pass / Selkirk Mountains
We were pleasantly surprised today to find some quality early season turns.
However, playing the aspects was key. Lee slopes offered by far the best skiing with a snowpack of 70-100cm which was burying early season hazards nicely. Windward aspects generally held 50-60cm with many thinly buried hazards under as little as 30cm of new snow in places.
The rain crust interface (~15-20cm above ground) produced variable results but generally seems to be gaining bond strength.
Moderate ridgetop winds were forming soft surface slabs and the new snow was sloughing on steeper terrain.
We had 15cm of new snow on the car over 7 hours, it was puking when we left, and still is as we write!! The new snow combined with wind loading was our biggest concern and will certainly be something to watch out for.
Cheers,
Shaun King, Mountain Guide www.mountainsense.ca
Ken Bélanger, Asst. Ski Guide
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
[MCR] Coast Range, Anniversary Glacier area, Nov 14 & 15
Monday, November 15, 2010
[MCR] Rockies, Stanley Headwall
Climbed Sinus Gully on the Stanley Headwall today. Good wet ice and descent protection. There wasn’t more than 10cm of snow on the hike in although it was snowing 1cm/hr by the time I left.
A party climbed Nemesis today, it looked much more exciting.
Larry Dolecki
Mountain Guide
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Saturday, November 13, 2010
[MCR] Trophy Range - South Cariboos
Snowpack amounts are a bit below average for this time of year at tree line & alpine and still below threshold for avalanches in this area. There is 30-40 cm of snow with drifts up to 1.0 m at tree line and above. A melt freeze crust approximately 20 cm from the ground carries very well in most places. Above 1800 m the wind has done a good job of smoothing out the bulges and divots of the landscape. Access to the trailhead by SUV and 4x4 still manageable. Freezing level is at valley bottom in the North Thompson with 3 cm of new snow last night at 800m (10-11-13).
Friday, November 12, 2010
[MCR] Ranger Creek avalanche, Rockies, Front Ranges (Nov 12)
At 12 noon today (Nov 12), a size 1.5 avalanche was observed on a
southeast aspect across the drainage/bowl from the ice climb R&D
(right of Chalice and The Blade) located in Ranger Creek on Mt. Murray
in Kananaski Country. The crown was right on the ridge crest at
approximately 2500m and the debris funneled through gullies and over
cliffs to deposit in the creek drainage at approximately 2250m. The
starting zone was in the sun, but I suspect the primary trigger was
the moderate winds that were gusting all morning. The avalanche was
not near the ice routes, but the debris was close to the approach to
the upper climbs. No people were involved.
I have climbed at Ranger Creek for the past three days straight and it
appears that the thin snowpack is gradually deteriorating due to the
bits of accumulated new snow compounded by the wind transport at
ridgetop. The window for ice climbing at Ranger Creek is drawing to a
close.
Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Thursday, November 11, 2010
[MCR] Ranger Creek snow conditions
Was climbing in Ranger Creek today and supposedly there was a small avalanche that came over Lone Ranger and buried a person waist deep at the base. Luckily he wasn't on the climb at the time. We had just left the climb an hour before, so it was a bit of a shock to hear second hand. As mentioned earlier, from Conrad there isn't very much snow on the approach to these climbs and so it is easy to think that the hazard is low. Despite the day being practically wind free, this happened and could have really hurt a leader if they were on it at the wrong time. With these being nearly the only climbs in right now, there were 9 cars at one point today and line ups for routes. Sarah Hueniken Alpine Guide |
[MCR] Avalanches in the Ten Peaks area. Bident
east aspects in the Ten Peaks area. One failed below the seracs on the
Chouinard route on Mt. Fay and one on the north east glacier of Mt. Bident.
Both failed on glacier ice or firn snow and had crowns about 1 metre deep.
For anyone planning some late season alpine climbing, use extra caution on
steep loaded northerly aspects.
Brad White(See attached file: Mt Bident Nov 10 2010.jpg)
Mountain Safety Programs Specialist
Mountain Guide
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 10th, 2010
ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 10th, 2010The forecasts of a "BIG" La Nina year are not jiving with reality just yet. The weather forecasts are not really depressing but aren't exactly an excuse for ecstatic behaviour yet either.In the Columbia mountains, some rain to around 2000m on monday has left an at least moist snowpack in some places and a raincrust in others. Not many operations providing observations yet, but there is 8cm at the summit of Rogers Pass and 32cm at Mt. Fidelity(western glacier park) at 1900. Snowing lightly and the skiing and the driving is tricky in Glacier park. At 7am today at Mustang Powder Lodge at 1700m in the western Monashees they had 56cm of snow on the ground, snowing lightly and it was -6c. Banff park wardens report that rain fell to around 2900m at the beginning of the week. There is now a rain crust to around that elevation. They report that avalanche activity, even sloughing, has slowed down. There is probably some stiff, nasty windslabs above 3000m. Low elevation ice climbing is also a slow starter, but with the forecasted colder temperatures, ice may soon be coming to a below treeline drip near you. The rain and moist snow will have helped the glacier travel and the early season skiing a tiny bit but it still sucks:) This stronger snow will improve crevasse bridging somewhat and means that the snow around the innumerable rocks, stumps and alders carries a bit better. Maybe it means you can get going faster before you take that horrendous beater through the fire hardened stumps. Some decent turns may possibly be had up high though if you are willing to take the walk and the risk. That early season rain crust will need some observation to see whether it becomes a weak layer later in the winter. This is our last MCR summary for 2010. The Canadian Avalanche Centre will start putting out their Public Avalanche Bulletins on Friday. Banff, Kootenay, Yoho, Jasper and Glacier National Parks and Kananaskis Country have started putting out their regional bulletins. Go to www.avalanche.ca to see all these fine bulletins if you aren't already on their mailing lists. Thank you again for tuning in to the MCR. ACMG members will continue to provide observations from specific locations as they can over the winter and we will start up the summaries again in the spring. Have a great winter when it finally gets here:) Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide | |
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. |
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
[MCR] Coire Dubh Integrale
Right now, there is no climbable ice on the route, although crampons were used for some verglas in the narrow part of the gully. This proved to be the crux due to challenging gear placements and the soft nature of the verglas. A few knifeblade pitons are useful in this section. The rest of the climb was done in mountain boots, easily avoiding all slushy ice.
Temperatures varied from -6°C to -2°C, although it felt much warmer in the sun. There was a small amount of snow in the shadow of Loder Peak, but never more than 5 cm deep. The lack of snow increased the rockfall hazard, although no natural rockfall was observed. The wind was light and variable on the route and ridge top winds were moderate to strong from the west.
All in all, I would say that in its present condition the route is still a good climb, but it is more enjoyable when there is ice.
Have fun, take care,
Grant Meekins
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
Friday, November 5, 2010
[MCR] Rogers Pass correction Nov. 2-4
"Several avalanches up to size 2 observed on E and NE aspects".
The photos were:
1) Looking East from the summit of North Terminal Peak across the Beaver Valley
2) Looking back up at our tracks down from North Terminal Peak
3) Looking West towards Sapphire Col from Youngs Peak
4) Looking at the highway from Youngs Peak
My apologies.
Alex Geary
[MCR] Rockies, Mt Kitchener, Grand Central Coulior
Thursday, November 4, 2010
[MCR] Midday Peak, Selkirk Mountains near Salmo
reached the summit of Midday Peak just after noon. There was a whopping
45cm of snow at 1925m on the summit. The snow fully covered the ground
above about 1500m. Air temperatures ranged from just above freezing in
the valley in the morning to around 10C at noon on the summit.
Temperatures plummeted rapidly as the sun went down.
I took skis (the eternal optimist!) and my buddies took snowshoes.
Snowshoes were the better option. The skiing sucked on the breakable
crust, but I still had fun!.
Craig Hollinger,
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 4th, 2010
ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 4th, 2010Fall continues to cruise pleasantly along. Here on the east slope of the Rockies you can still climb when the wind is low and the sun is on the rock. Ice climbing is to be had in the cold high places and even the Terminator is starting to form into a collection of icicles and daggers that MAY be climbable soon by a very light person with a very light touch and a very high risk tolerance.Skiing in the rockies is probably pretty grim in most locations. People have been ski touring up high on the Rae glacier and at the Fernie ski area as an example. Lots of wind on the east slope so I am guessing it has been windy up high along the divide too. There have been two interesting and spooky reports from the Columbia mtns, both mentioning fairly large slab avalanches(approx 100m wide) from around 2300m elevation that ran on the summer snow. This is a bit disconcerting and will be something to watch for as the season progresses. High elevation skiing is still obviously a bit rough and the usual early season hazards like rocks, stumps, crevasses, open creeks etc are all still there at all elevations and just waiting for a tasty leg or head. The forecast for the Columbias and the Rockies divide is for more precipitation. Early season skiing in flat light is not my cup of tea, so I can only hope for ice, warm rock or a good movie. Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide | |
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. |
[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 4th, 2010
ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 4th, 2010Fall continues to cruise pleasantly along. Here on the east slope of the Rockies you can still climb when the wind is low and the sun is on the rock. Ice climbing is to be had in the cold high places and even the Terminator is starting to form into a collection of icicles and daggers that MAY be climbable soon by a very light person with a very light touch and a very high risk tolerance.Skiing in the rockies is probably pretty grim in most locations. People have been ski touring up high on the Rae glacier and at the Fernie ski area as an example. Lots of wind on the east slope so I am guessing it has been windy up high along the divide too. There have been two interesting and spooky reports from the Columbia mtns, both mentioning fairly large slab avalanches(approx 100m wide) from around 2300m elevation that ran on the summer snow. This is a bit disconcerting and will be something to watch for as the season progresses. High elevation skiing is still obviously a bit rough and the usual early season hazards like rocks, stumps, crevasses, open creeks etc are all still there at all elevations and just waiting for a tasty leg or head. The forecast for the Columbias and the Rockies divide is for more precipitation. Early season skiing in flat light is not my cup of tea, so I can only hope for ice, warm rock or a good movie. Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide | |
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. |