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Tuesday, November 30, 2010

[MCR] Slocan Ice - Selkirks

Did some poking around today looking for ice and this is what we found:
 
Paradise - In great early season shape
Glade Falls - 1st pitch almost climbable on the right.  2nd and 3rd pitches need more time.
Jacob Creek Falls - 1st pitch not in.  2nd pitch forming well but not climbable yet.
Vanishing Falls - obscured
Upper Slocan Ice above pullout - right pitch looks climbable but approach slab looks sporty with thin ice
Home By Noon - not even close to being in
Just Another Quickie - climbable but lower slab looks sketchy
Enterprise (where we ended up) - tricky approach over deadfall with only about 20cm of snow on the ground.  Ice in good early season (WI 4) shape with some chandelier ice but taking long screws.
 
 
 
Cheers,
Shaun King - Mountain Guide
Mountain Sense Guiding & Instruction
 

Monday, November 29, 2010

[MCR] Evan Thomas and Louise Falls

Climbed in Evan Thomas on Saturday and Louise Falls on Sunday.
Chantilly is in decent shape and growing, still thinner then normal at the top but fine climbing.  Snowline was climbed but reported to be very thin and hard to protect for the first 30 meters.  Moonlight saw numerous ascents.  It looks hard to break up the first 60 meters into two pitches right now.
Louise Falls is still not in.  There is a tube touching down but it needs more time.  The cold snap released some daggers, but there is still huge hangfire up there and it is hard to climb anywhere on the first 2 pitches that wouldn't be in the line of fire.
Sarah Hueniken
Alpine Guide


Sunday, November 28, 2010

[MCR] Rogers Pass - Asulkan Brook

Up the Asulkan drainage in Rogers Pass today.  There is about 80-100 cm of total snow depth at the top of the tree triangle.  Ski quality was good today; open alpine slopes had about 20cm of light snow on top of a firm surface.  Rough skiing below treeline with alot of stuff to get around and be wary of (rocks, running water, stumps, alder, etc) - but once you get into the main part of the tree triangle, its good from there up.  No new avalanches observed. Stayed calm and about -10 all day. Nice layer of surface hoar growing on top.

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide
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[MCR] Bow Summit

A short day at Bow Summit.


Quite a mixed bag for snow conditions - weak and shallow below treeline, with treeline and alpine features having everything from hard slab, to no snow at all.


Found on average 40 cm at treeline with the Nov 6th rain crust down 20 cm. Facets above the the rain crust but no test results due to the weak nature of the snowpack. Small surface hoar in protected areas below treeline.


The main concern was early season hazards though, (especially in the alpine) with a significant number of rocks just being covered. I looked to well supported wind scoops that seemed to have a little better coverage and skied cautiously around any anomaly on the surface.


Better to be writing this  - than in the garage ptexing the bases.


Darcy Chilton

ACMG Ski Guide

Saturday, November 27, 2010

[MCR] Spray River Falls, Banff

Climbed this today with Elisabeth and Al enjoying a clear, calm day.  The route is fat and wet.  We approached by going into the forest at the first sharp switchback heading downhill, and stayed in the forest on the right side of the gully until small cliff bands forced us into the drainage ~100m below the climb.
 
No signs of any significant avalanche hazard with todays cool, calm weather, although the main hazard is out of sight all day.  Some small sluffs/slides have come down the gully above the climb in the past weeks.  No significant slabbing and about 20cm of facetted snow around the climb itself. 
 
Really nice day for climbing except for how wet and frozen the ropes were by the end.  Haven't had it that bad in a while.
 
Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.banffmountainguides.com

Friday, November 26, 2010

[MCR] Canmore Junkyards and Johnston Canyon

Junk Yards are in pretty good early season shape, with both lines of the Scottish Gully being in, although the left line is lean and “mixed” at the bottom. The main face is still lacking the steep curtain below the characteristic tree but the rest looked in good shape.

 

Johnston today with a little bit of sun in the early pm and temps warming to -5C. Surprisingly, the main water fall is currently well doable and relatively easy to get to, most likely a result if the recent 5 days of deep freeze, which was also responsible for the massive debris at the bottom of the “curtain wall”. The left most of the steep columns survived the cold snap and was lead today by someone more courageous than me but it can also be relatively easily accessed from the top platform to set up a top rope. The right side offers a number of moderate lines with the top being too thin for screws, but fortunately it’s not very steep.

 

Cheers,

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA)

 

OnTop ltd.

www.ontopmountaineering.com

 

Thursday, November 25, 2010

[MCR] Monashees-west of the Perry River-North of the TCH


1st day on skis at Mustang Powder in the western monashees. Numerous snowpack tests between 2100 and 1650m found no significant shears at present and an average of around 1m snow to around 1700m. Below 1700 the snow depth tapers off dramatically and skiing gets boney. Ski quality was surprisingly good on planar slopes above 1700, especially considering all the winds of the past week. Higher up the wind has done more damage and we had some rock issues in some high treeline, wind effected features. Windslabs are probably lurking somewhere treeline and above.

Generally, the snowpack has weakened during the cold weather and it will be interesting to see how it reacts to the 1st big snow load.

Still, a much better snowpack than I had feared.

Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
laristan@telus.net

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

[MCR] Selkirks/ Monashees surrounding Revelstoke

We were able to see a pretty large amount of terrain by helicopter today in the Monashees from Revelstoke North to Hat Peak, and in the Selkirks from Sale Mountain South to the Akokolex river.  Overall, fairly rugged  conditions.  Alpine, tree line, and open terrain below tree line has been hammered pretty hard by winds from a variety of directions, certainly the odd sheltered terrain feature held soft looking snow, but generally VERY WIND AFFECTED.  Below tree line, very low snow amounts indeed, with only 50 cm of snow on the ground at one spot we skied to at 5500 feet (1700m).  Generally from what we saw, both ranges appeared similar in terms of snow coverage and wind affect. 
 
Temperatures were between -18 and -26 which we found at 2900meters.  Alpine wind was moderate out of the North East.
 
We didnt do much formal snowpack assessment, but the upper snowpack has definately been affected by the cold arcic air.  What is not windslab, (either hard or breakable), is recrystalized, and very slow to ski on due to the cold temperatures.  Overall, the snowpack did not feel very well settled, ie it felt shallow and faceted.  We didnt perform any tests on the early November crust, but could feel it by probing, it did not feel very thick where we checked, and in some spots at tree line and below didnt help at all to carry our weight over the underlying ground.
 
As far as avalanche activity, there were a few isolated small sz 1 slabs in predictable spots up to 20 or 30 cm deep (suspect thin windslabs).  Of significant note however, were several large avalanches in the size 2 to 3 range that ran on smooth, mostly glaciated terrain above about 2800 meters.  Over the course of our morning, we saw about a half dozen of these, all in the Selkirks, however maybe we just didnt stumble across any in the Monashees.  These slabs are hard to date as it hasnt snowed much in the last week, but certainly no older than the end of the last snowfall mid last week.  These avalanches were on terrain between 35 and 45 degrees, 80-100cm deep and up to 175meters wide.  Most were in immediate lee features, but a couple were mid slope.  Aspects were due North, and North East.  Hard to say without actually playing around at the crown lines, but we suspected these ran on the crust interface from early November that was formed before, and buried by all the latest storm snow.  I am not sure if that crust actually went as high has these slabs which were 2800-3000 meters, most other reports show them to at least 2500 meters.  It was hard to tell 100%, but one of these avalanches (sz 2.5), looked like it might have actually run on the summer snow interface.  These avalanches sound very similar to another few isolated slides that were reported at similar elevations over the last week. Odd that no similar avalanches were seen in similar terrain at slightly lower elevations?
 
Coverage in the high alpine on the glaciers appears not too bad for this time of year, obviously lots of open holes and sags that one would expect to see at this time of year.
 
We did manage to find a few good turns between the windslab, and shallow burried obstacles, but then again, we did have a helicopter and 2 mountain ranges to work with.....
 
Cheers
 
Jeff Honig            Mountain Guide
Dave Pehowich    Ski Guide

Monday, November 22, 2010

[MCR] Coast - Whistler Backcountry

I spent the last 3 days skiing with friends in the Whistler backcountry based out of the Himmelsbach Hut, making it as far as Overlord Mountain.

Snow depths were variable, 100cm at Flute/Oboe col (1850m), 90cm at Singing Pass (1700m), and 175cm on Whirlwind Glacier (2300m). The early November crust was around 1cm thick and buried between 35-60cm at these locations. A thicker crust was found down 55-105cm at these locations and remained well consolidated down to the ground. Many rocky areas such as the moraines on the way to Whirlwind had as little as 10cm of snow. Definately still early season conditions, so stick to slopes with smooth surfaces under the snow if you don't want to hit any rocks.

In the alpine we were surprised by the lack of wind effect encountered between the hut and Overlord, which seemed to disappear 100m below the peaks. We found fantastic skiing in facetted powder on Overlord Glacier, Whirlwind Glacier, and Banana Chute on Mt Fissile. The worst wind effect encountered was between Flute and Oboe with a mix of breakable/supportable crust and sastrugi to 30cm from the outflow winds. With the winds encountered today I suspect the skiing conditions have deteriorated in the alpine.

Temperatures were unseasonably cold, -27 deg outside the hut this morning at 8:30am. Winds up to around 40km/hr from the North near Lesser Flute this morning.

The early November crust provided excellent step kicking on the SW aspect of Mt Fissile (Banana Chute approach), the best travel we'd ever encountered.

One size 1.5-2 natural slab avalanche observed on a SSW aspect in steep terrain near Mt Pattison around 2200m from the past few days, suspect triggered by wind loading on the early November crust. Isolated windslabs were observed, but relatively easy to detour such as the convex roll at the top of Banana Chute.

Crevasses were generally obvious except near ridge-tops, where moderate wind effects were observed. Specifically I'm thinking of the NE side of the Fissile/Whirlwind col. where it was difficult to tell the difference between crevasses and wind pillows.

A note on passing the rockband west of Overlord Mountain as shown as the normal route on Baldwin's map: Last time I rappelled down here I remembered thinking it looked relatively easy to scramble up. This is definately NOT the case, it was very tricky in ski boots and I was relieved when my buddy through me a handline to help me up. It looked like there might be some easier options further to the west.

Alex Geary (ACMG Assistant Ski Guide & Assistant Rock Guide)

[MCR] skating in Jasper Nov 22

Had a look at the ice on the ponds/lakes around Jasper and found great
skating at the beaver lodge pond out by Snaring and also on lake Edith.
We measured the ice depth in several spots and never had less than 4
inches thick. Beautiful out in the sun!!

Matt Reynolds
ACMG Mountain Guide

Sunday, November 21, 2010

[MCR] Maligne Lake area revisited

Up to the Bald Hills today with an AST group looking at the snowpack
in the Eastern Slopes of the Rockies.

-23 in the parking lot, -20 at the summer trail turnoff and though we
were expecting (hoping for!) some kind of an inversion in the
sunshine at treeline, the thermometer still read -23.

Still shallow below treeline and though people have been "making
turns" you would be best to stick to the road below 1950metres.

A test profile at treeline had a 52cm snowpack. The top 10CM was
newer snow but quite faceted. The midpack was larger facets which sat
on top of the rain crust which is about 10cm off the ground.

The upper layers were still very unconsolidated and couldn't get any
shears or compressions on top of the rain crust.
We did not find the surface hoar layer as our tests gave no clean shears.

A Rutchblock test was done at 2250 metres, NE aspect, ~50-60cm
snowpack. the results were a score of 5 below the rain crust.

No natural activity observed.

In general the cold temps have really progressed the faceting process
in most of the snowpack.
We would suspect that there are areas in the alpine where wind affect
will have stiffened up the surface layers and it could be more reactive,
..however not that much wind affect was observed in this drainage.

With these weak layers sitting on top of a good sliding
crust......next big storm should be interesting.

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide

Peter Amann

pamann@incentre.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

[MCR] Roger's Pass

Spent the day today (Nov. 20) in the various bowls and basins of the Connaught drainage at the Pass. Temps were a brisk -15c parking lot with a sunny high of -10 mid day above treeline. The weather was fine -mix of sun & cloud, with mostly calm wind. The snowpack is about 30% less than normal for this time of year. The trail up to Balu Pass is full of rocks and roots and low snow cover. It is passable but one must be careful to avoid injury. Snowpack depths are about 40-50cms lower down, with an average of 85cms at 2200M (treeline), and about 100-120cms in the sheltered lees and draws in the alpine. Saw a few older avalanches from past 4 days up to size 2. The snowpack was mostly stable, only one layer of crust closer to the ground which showed mostly hard compression test results. The Glacier Public Avy bulletin is rating the hazard at moderate at Treeline and Alpine. Otherwise mostly low density unsettled mid and upper pack. Of more concern than the avalanche hazard was the
rock and weed hazard. The alder weeds were extremely bad in the lower part of Hospital gully accessing Ursus Minor/Hospital Bowl area. There were quite a few parties skiing there the last two days and pretty much all the good available lines are now tracked out. I hit about 12 rocks today, some on the skintrack, some on the runs, and some on the trail out. It would take about 30-40 more cms to bring it up to "normal" good skiing.
Good luck and be safe.
Russell Lybarger Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Lizard Range - South Rockies

A couple of friends and I spent a chilly day skiing some runs in the western Lizard Range today.

The most significant thing about conditions right now is the push of arctic air blowing in with moderate easterly winds. A temperature of -17 was recorded at 2000m.

There is good coverage in most places, with snow depth about 120cm -140cm in sheltered areas at treeline elevations (1800-2000m). Because of the winds, snow conditions were highly variable depending on aspect and terrain features. Most open areas, even well below treeline, were quite wind affected. But in lee areas in the trees the skiing quality was excellent, with calf-deep low density powder over a relatively supportive mid-pack.

There is currently lots of wind transport occurring because of the significant amount of low density storm snow that has fallen over the past few days. Hard and soft wind slabs are forming in lee-loaded and cross-loaded areas. Today these wind slabs were not reactive to skiers and no natural avalanche activity was observed but this will likely change if the winds continue. There was evidence of a small avalanche cycle to size 2 that occurred during the last storm 2-3 days ago but no fracture lines were observed because the start zones have since re-loaded.

Despite the cold and wind, there is still some great skiing to be had. Overall I was pleasantly surprised with the conditions for November.

Happy Turns,

Jeff Volp
Ski Guide
Kimberley, BC

Friday, November 19, 2010

[MCR] Selkirks: Kootenay Pass

Up at the pass again today under mostly cloudy skies with intermittent
snow. Another 8cm fell during the day and coupled with the ~30 new
over the last few days, there's now just enough to hide largeish
boulders.

There was little wind so the new snow is soft (4F-F) and the bond with
the underlying rain crust (now down amywhere from 50-80cm) is slowly
strenghtening. Field snow depths ranged from 80-120cm.

Numerous creeks still open sometimes require circuitous routes. Heavy
trailbreaking with 40cm ski penetration.

Ken Bélanger, Asst. Ski Guide
Shaun King, Mountain Guide
www.mountainsense.ca


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

[MCR] Selkirks, Balu Headwall, Nov 18

Out for few early season laps in the Connaught drainage. Nice day & seeing lots of locals & visitors alike sampling the snowpack. Some observations:

-HS (height of Snow) at 2250m (on the SE ridge of Ursus) : 110-120cm
-settled snowpack with 30cm of Fist (F) resistance new snow (HN) over 4 finger, then 1 finger midpack
-the bottom 1/3 is a dense layer of Pencil (P) resistance with the early season raincrust (RC) prominent on top of this & about 5cm thick
-compression tests had a Medium result (CTM 15) down 20cm in the HN with a Progressive Collapse (PC) nature to the shear, as well as a Hard result (CTH 25) with a Sudden Planar result down 50cm. This was at an interface of 4f over 1f snow.
-no results to compression tests on the crust
-no results to skicuts. no settlements felt

All in all, a good start to the season, tho that raincrust could have different reactive qualities in other areas. It's worth the dig down to have a look at & it stands out quite well (@ 2250m) in the pit I dug.
Coverage was developing well, tho there was still quite a bit of surface roughness evident in the snowpack below 2100m. The creeks are still open, but more & more snowbridges are appearing.
I didn't get a very good look into the higher Alpine start zones as the visibility was quite limited at times, tho from what I could see, I didn't see any Natural activity.

It was a happy shortbus load of friendly folk out enjoying the new treats today. Ski Pen (PS) was about 30+ cm & occasionally one would touch down on grass or worse, rock, at lower elevations. The trail is in good shape for early season and as usual, provides lots of fun luging out at the end of the day, especially on tired, early season legs!

dave healey, asg

pic 1 | balu headwall
pic 2 | ursus bowl exit

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

[MCR] Kootenay Pass / Selkirk Mountains

We were pleasantly surprised today to find some quality early season turns. 

However, playing the aspects was key.  Lee slopes offered by far the best skiing with a snowpack of 70-100cm which was burying early season hazards nicely.  Windward aspects generally held 50-60cm with many thinly buried hazards under as little as 30cm of new snow in places.

 

The rain crust interface (~15-20cm above ground) produced variable results but generally seems to be gaining bond strength.    

 

Moderate ridgetop winds were forming soft surface slabs and the new snow was sloughing on steeper terrain.

 

We had 15cm of new snow on the car over 7 hours, it was puking when we left, and still is as we write!!  The new snow combined with wind loading was our biggest concern and will certainly be something to watch out for.

 

Cheers,

Shaun King, Mountain Guide  www.mountainsense.ca

Ken Bélanger, Asst. Ski Guide

 
 

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

[MCR] Coast Range, Anniversary Glacier area, Nov 14 & 15

In for a quick look at the area around Keith's hut.  Winter is coming & appears to be off to a decent start.

Trail

Used the summer trail in both directions. Able to use skins above the rockwall section, tho still quite thin & sporty.  An entry in the logbook from a recent party trying out the Winter route described a nasty bushwack of 4-5 hours.  Didn't sound like a picnic!

Snowpack

Aprox 65cm at the cabin (1650m) and 130cm (2000m) in the Alpine on NE aspects.  The bottom 1/3rd is composed of dense, recently moist grains of warmer snow.  Resistance in the pencil - knife range.  Above this is 60-80cm of 4 finger to 1 finger settled snow.  On any sun aspect, a crust of 2-5cm had formed by the afternoon of the 14th.  At elevations around 1700m, daytime temps (above zero) had produced a very slight MFC.  Skiable, but present.  Ski pen varied from 5-15cm.  No windslab was present in the areas I observed, tho there were periods of moderate transport from strong downflow gusts off the glacier.

Coverage

Still quite early in the season and surface roughness (rocks & outcrops) was still quite evident, even up into the Alpine.  Skiing anywhere in the trees was a gamble for the ever lurking, season ending super snow snake.  Open areas with planar slopes provided the best skiing with least worries.  A large weekend group had skied everything in sight of the hut, but had not ventured any further afield.  Creeks are still quite open & care was taken in any crossing - snow bridges were seldom & weak in strength.  The glacier had patchy coverage, with some slots still showing on convex rolls & wind scoured areas.

Stability

A couple of test pits & a few hand shears showed a strong bond between the old & new snow.  One pit at 2000m, NE aspect had a repeatable Mod Compression test (20taps) down 20cm from the surface with a Sudden Planar characteristic.  No other weaknesses were observed.  No natural activity (visibility was limited on the 15th) noted.  No reaction to ski cuts, nor were any cracking or whumphs observed.

Nice to get out & watch the early season snowpack forming up.  The conditions had me skiing in quite a conservative mode, but enjoyable all the same.  Take care out there & enjoy the rest of the season!

Dave Healey, ASG


Monday, November 15, 2010

[MCR] Rockies, Stanley Headwall

Climbed Sinus Gully on the Stanley Headwall today. Good wet ice and descent protection. There wasn’t more than 10cm of snow on the hike in although it was snowing 1cm/hr by the time I left.

A party climbed Nemesis today, it looked much more exciting.

Larry Dolecki

Mountain Guide

http://www.icefall.ca/

 



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Saturday, November 13, 2010

[MCR] Trophy Range - South Cariboos

Trophy Range - Flower Meadows

Snowpack amounts are a bit below average for this time of year at tree line & alpine and still below threshold for avalanches in this area. There is 30-40 cm of snow with drifts up to 1.0 m at tree line and above. A melt freeze crust approximately 20 cm from the ground carries very well in most places.  Above 1800 m the wind has done a good job of smoothing out the bulges and divots of the landscape. Access to the trailhead by SUV and 4x4 still manageable. Freezing level is at valley bottom in the North Thompson with 3 cm of new snow last night at 800m (10-11-13).

Dana Foster Ludwig
Ski Guide

Snowy Mountain Alpine Tours and chalets
Blue River - Clearwater BC
P 250 674 2988
www.snowymountain.ca





Friday, November 12, 2010

[MCR] Ranger Creek avalanche, Rockies, Front Ranges (Nov 12)

Ranger Creek avalanche, Canadian Rockies, Front Ranges (Nov 12)

At 12 noon today (Nov 12), a size 1.5 avalanche was observed on a
southeast aspect across the drainage/bowl from the ice climb R&D
(right of Chalice and The Blade) located in Ranger Creek on Mt. Murray
in Kananaski Country. The crown was right on the ridge crest at
approximately 2500m and the debris funneled through gullies and over
cliffs to deposit in the creek drainage at approximately 2250m. The
starting zone was in the sun, but I suspect the primary trigger was
the moderate winds that were gusting all morning. The avalanche was
not near the ice routes, but the debris was close to the approach to
the upper climbs. No people were involved.

I have climbed at Ranger Creek for the past three days straight and it
appears that the thin snowpack is gradually deteriorating due to the
bits of accumulated new snow compounded by the wind transport at
ridgetop. The window for ice climbing at Ranger Creek is drawing to a
close.

Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Thursday, November 11, 2010

[MCR] Ranger Creek snow conditions

Was climbing in Ranger Creek today and supposedly there was a small avalanche that came over Lone Ranger and buried a person waist deep at the base.  Luckily he wasn't on the climb at the time. We had just left the climb an hour before, so it was a bit of a shock to hear second hand.
As mentioned earlier, from Conrad there isn't very much snow on the approach to these climbs and so it is easy to think that the hazard is low.  Despite the day being practically wind free, this happened and could have really hurt a leader if they were on it at the wrong time.
With these being nearly the only climbs in right now, there were 9 cars at one point today and line ups for routes. 
Sarah Hueniken
Alpine Guide

[MCR] Avalanches in the Ten Peaks area. Bident

Yesterday we observed 2 large (size 2.5-3) avalanches on steep loaded north
east aspects in the Ten Peaks area. One failed below the seracs on the
Chouinard route on Mt. Fay and one on the north east glacier of Mt. Bident.
Both failed on glacier ice or firn snow and had crowns about 1 metre deep.

For anyone planning some late season alpine climbing, use extra caution on
steep loaded northerly aspects.


Brad White(See attached file: Mt Bident Nov 10 2010.jpg)
Mountain Safety Programs Specialist
Mountain Guide

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 10th, 2010


ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 10th, 2010

The forecasts of a "BIG" La Nina year are not jiving with reality just yet. The weather forecasts are not really depressing but aren't exactly an excuse for ecstatic behaviour yet either.

In the Columbia mountains, some rain to around 2000m on monday has left an at least moist snowpack in some places and a raincrust in others. Not many operations providing observations yet, but there is 8cm at the summit of Rogers Pass and 32cm at Mt. Fidelity(western glacier park) at 1900. Snowing lightly and the skiing and the driving is tricky in Glacier park. At 7am today at Mustang Powder Lodge at 1700m in the western Monashees they had 56cm of snow on the ground, snowing lightly and it was -6c.

Banff park wardens report that rain fell to around 2900m at the beginning of the week. There is now a rain crust to around that elevation. They report that avalanche activity, even sloughing, has slowed down. There is probably some stiff, nasty windslabs above 3000m.

Low elevation ice climbing is also a slow starter, but with the forecasted colder temperatures, ice may soon be coming to a below treeline drip near you.

The rain and moist snow will have helped the glacier travel and the early season skiing a tiny bit but it still sucks:)
This stronger snow will improve crevasse bridging somewhat and means that the snow around the innumerable rocks, stumps and alders carries a bit better. Maybe it means you can get going faster before you take that horrendous beater through the fire hardened stumps. Some decent turns may possibly be had up high though if you are willing to take the walk and the risk.

That early season rain crust will need some observation to see whether it becomes a weak layer later in the winter.

This is our last MCR summary for 2010. The Canadian Avalanche Centre will start putting out their Public Avalanche Bulletins on Friday. Banff, Kootenay, Yoho, Jasper and Glacier National Parks and Kananaskis Country have started putting out their regional bulletins. Go to www.avalanche.ca to see all these fine bulletins if you aren't already on their mailing lists.

Thank you again for tuning in to the MCR. ACMG members will continue to provide observations from specific locations as they can over the winter and we will start up the summaries again in the spring. Have a great winter when it finally gets here:)

Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

[MCR] Coire Dubh Integrale

Guided Coire Dubh Integrale today, November 9. We climbed to the summit of Loder Peak and descended the ridge to highway 1-A .

Right now, there is no climbable ice on the route, although crampons were used for some verglas in the narrow part of the gully. This proved to be the crux due to challenging gear placements and the soft nature of the verglas. A few knifeblade pitons are useful in this section. The rest of the climb was done in mountain boots, easily avoiding all slushy ice.

Temperatures varied from -6°C to -2°C, although it felt much warmer in the sun. There was a small amount of snow in the shadow of Loder Peak, but never more than 5 cm deep. The lack of snow increased the rockfall hazard, although no natural rockfall was observed. The wind was light and variable on the route and
ridge top winds were moderate to strong from the west.

All in all, I would say that
in its present condition the route is still a good climb, but it is more enjoyable when there is ice.

Have fun, take care,

Grant Meekins
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures



Friday, November 5, 2010

[MCR] Rogers Pass correction Nov. 2-4

Please note that with my previous post yesterday I made an error with the aspects of the avalanches observed. It should have read:

 "Several avalanches up to size 2 observed on E and NE aspects".

The photos were:

1) Looking East from the summit of North Terminal Peak across the Beaver Valley
2) Looking back up at our tracks down from North Terminal Peak
3) Looking West towards Sapphire Col from Youngs Peak
4) Looking at the highway from Youngs Peak

My apologies.

Alex Geary

[MCR] Rockies, Mt Kitchener, Grand Central Coulior

My guest and I decided to go check out the Grand Central Coulior on Mt Kitchener on Wed, Nov 3rd. We had our eyes open for slabs on the drive up as friends of mine had witnessed a large slab avalanche rip wall to wall on the big half-way ledge on the North Face of Mt Cromwell on Oct 30th. That avalanche turned the whole lower wall of Cromwell white. Also I got a second hand report of a team retreating from the Asteroid Alley route on Mt Andromeda because of slab conditions. I started noticing recent slab activity from around Bow Summit, and northe, with a very large slab out on the summit ridge of Mt Epaulette. The below pictured slab on the Ramp route of Mt Athabasca was spooky to see, but we decided to go stick our noses into Kitchener and have a look. Thus far the principal risk of our trip was hard packed snow on the highway. It is time for winter tires on the 93 North.

The approach into the face is in fine walking shape with no water to walk through on the Sunwapta River. Picture of the face below. We camped on the glacier below the face. A number of slabs were out on the face.

Nov 4th we left the tent at 5am. The initial bergshrund had been scoured down to summer snow by avalanches. One hundred meters higher we entered the first pillow of storm snow, got out the shovel and dug a test pit. We found a moderate shovel compression test and two easy to moderate shovel shear tests. The failures were clean pops with the recent storm snow failing on the October surface that had been rained on, and then frozen (this surface had granted us fine climbing conditions on our ascent of the Robinson/Arbic route on Mt Cromwell on Oct 19th). It appears that the snows and, mostly, the winds of the last week have overloaded that interface. We turned around and went back to tent for tea.

As a consolation prize we made the first ascent of the below pictured ice/mixed climb: WI 3+, 5.7 mixed, thin -you need rock gear. The route is on the lower cliffs between K2 and K3 (Kitchener 1 and 2), and we called it K9 because we got pooched on Kitchener.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com


Nov 3rd



Thursday, November 4, 2010

[MCR] Midday Peak, Selkirk Mountains near Salmo

Had a sunny hike/ski in the Barrett Creek drainage today near Salmo. We
reached the summit of Midday Peak just after noon. There was a whopping
45cm of snow at 1925m on the summit. The snow fully covered the ground
above about 1500m. Air temperatures ranged from just above freezing in
the valley in the morning to around 10C at noon on the summit.
Temperatures plummeted rapidly as the sun went down.

I took skis (the eternal optimist!) and my buddies took snowshoes.
Snowshoes were the better option. The skiing sucked on the breakable
crust, but I still had fun!.

Craig Hollinger,
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 4th, 2010


ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 4th, 2010

Fall continues to cruise pleasantly along. Here on the east slope of the Rockies you can still climb when the wind is low and the sun is on the rock. Ice climbing is to be had in the cold high places and even the Terminator is starting to form into a collection of icicles and daggers that MAY be climbable soon by a very light person with a very light touch and a very high risk tolerance.

Skiing in the rockies is probably pretty grim in most locations. People have been ski touring up high on the Rae glacier and at the Fernie ski area as an example. Lots of wind on the east slope so I am guessing it has been windy up high along the divide too.

There have been two interesting and spooky reports from the Columbia mtns, both mentioning fairly large slab avalanches(approx 100m wide) from around 2300m elevation that ran on the summer snow. This is a bit disconcerting and will be something to watch for as the season progresses.

High elevation skiing is still obviously a bit rough and the usual early season hazards like rocks, stumps, crevasses, open creeks etc are all still there at all elevations and just waiting for a tasty leg or head.

The forecast for the Columbias and the Rockies divide is for more precipitation. Early season skiing in flat light is not my cup of tea, so I can only hope for ice, warm rock or a good movie.

Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 4th, 2010


ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 4th, 2010

Fall continues to cruise pleasantly along. Here on the east slope of the Rockies you can still climb when the wind is low and the sun is on the rock. Ice climbing is to be had in the cold high places and even the Terminator is starting to form into a collection of icicles and daggers that MAY be climbable soon by a very light person with a very light touch and a very high risk tolerance.

Skiing in the rockies is probably pretty grim in most locations. People have been ski touring up high on the Rae glacier and at the Fernie ski area as an example. Lots of wind on the east slope so I am guessing it has been windy up high along the divide too.

There have been two interesting and spooky reports from the Columbia mtns, both mentioning fairly large slab avalanches(approx 100m wide) from around 2300m elevation that ran on the summer snow. This is a bit disconcerting and will be something to watch for as the season progresses.

High elevation skiing is still obviously a bit rough and the usual early season hazards like rocks, stumps, crevasses, open creeks etc are all still there at all elevations and just waiting for a tasty leg or head.

The forecast for the Columbias and the Rockies divide is for more precipitation. Early season skiing in flat light is not my cup of tea, so I can only hope for ice, warm rock or a good movie.

Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.