Climbed Nemesis yesterday. The firmest approach trail has been set in an inappropriate place. This trail cuts to climber's right -West- through the valley bottom timber to below Suffer Machine then traverse large avalanche prone slopes to the base of Nemesis. A case of someone setting a track on snowshoes and then everybody else following, at least one party on bootsoles (do yourself a favor and rent snowshoes). A better approach would follow ski tracks up the climber's left -East- side of the valley. Perhaps future parties, especially those on skis, could approach there.
The route is in standard Nemesis shape, not as hard as it gets, nor as easy. We climbed the route in one 73 meter pitch (my second had to climb up on the ice for 3 meters so I could get to the bolts having placed all my 16 screws on lead), and a second pitch of 65 meters.
Gusty moderate to strong winds all day and we could here the westerlies revving up on the ridgelines. Lots of faceted snow being redistributed by the wind.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures