[MCR] Extremely unusual conditions

Hi everyone,
 
It seem like many reports of avalanche involvements, close calls and even fatal accidents are increasingly indicating the serious consequences related to the unstable and avalanche prone snowpack affecting southern BC this year.
 
I have been skiing in the southern coast mountain over the last few weeks with a group of several other experienced guides. As in many other parts of southern BC the snowpack here is thin, weak and abnormally avalanche prone due to a small layer of soft facetted crystals poorly bonded to an early December rain crust below it. Due to a steady westerly flow and accompanied precipitation there is now between 50 to 100cm of recent snow forming a denser slab just above this weak layer in our area. As many other coastal or southern interior areas we have observed many natural avalanches up to size 3 on this weak layer. Our guiding team has not seen such dangerous conditions in this area before and there fore we are using extreme caution while out in the field. We think these very unusual conditions will deteriorate through the holidays and persist for most of the winter.
 
In the field, we have been skiing on very low angled terrain(less than 20 degrees) while trying to eliminate any exposure to potential surrounding avalanche terrain. Even with all our experience based precautions, we have been able to remotely trigger numerous avalanches, purposely or not, from a safe distance on nearby terrain. These conditions are increasingly challenging but we still feel its possible to enjoy the backcountry during the holidays. We recommend using extreme caution while in the backcountry and minimizing (if not eliminating) your exposure to potential avalanche terrain.
 
The canadian avalanche association has already issued several warnings recommending recreationists, experienced or not, to stay well away from any avalanche terrain. We strongly support their warnings and hope this message is helpful to anyone planning a trip in the backcountry.
 
Happy Holidays!
 
David Lussier
Mountain Guide
ACMG/IFMGA
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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[MCR] FLute Whisler Backcountry

Was skiing in the Flute ridge area today.  Had to ski down Symphony chair  to access the backcountry because of WB’s AC program as in full swing. Whistler looked a bit like a war zone with slides in some unusual start zones, as well as the normal places. Many of the recent slides have gone down to the facets and Dec 6 crust.

 

Skiing up Lesser Flute was work sometimes, occasionally the ski pen was near waist deep, in the trees. Foot Pen at 1700m was 1m. No whumps, but others are reporting lot of settlements. Creeks at this elevation are filled in reasonably. There is about 1.2m of snow now at 1700m and in the alpine there is quite a bit of windslabbing. I went to tree line and skied down in good quality snow. But took it really easy and stayed off bigger avalanche terrain angled slopes. Things feel ripe to slide and there is lots of evidence of past activity. I did not see any naturals today – they must be waiting for a trigger.... There is a report that Cowboy ridge had a very substantial slab avalanche that broke across the slope for many hundreds of meters and was up to 1m deep.

 

In conclusion skiing is quite good, you really have to work for your turns, but if you venture into avalanche terrain you might just be playing a very serious game of roulette.

 

Time for a drink, Happy new year,

Dave Sarkany

Ski Guide

 

 

 

[MCR] Diamond Head/ Paul Ridge, South Coast

Greetings West Coasters,

 

Considering the limitations of terrain that I would want to be on right now, we opted to give bigger areas a miss today and do a short day tour up at Diamond Head/Paul Ridge Area, thinking there could me more options for skiing low angle terrain.

 

Just below the high point of Paul Ridge, the total snowpack depth was around 160 cm . We decided to have a look in the snow. About the sketchiest I have ever seen it up there. At the site we dug our profile, we found 110 cm of mostly unconsolidated snow sitting on 15 cm of ballbearing facets above the hard crust that was buried in early Dec. We also found a (almost hidden) 3-5mm surface hoar layer down 75cm below the snow surface. The surface hoar layer sheared easily with a ‘pop’, and the facet layer was so weak it was almost falling out of the pit.

 

Even though the trail breaking was not difficult (skis only penetrated 25 cm), stepping out of the skis had us sinking almost up to our waists.

 

Heavy ‘Whumfs’ reverberating in the snowpack near ridgetop had me really thinking about the terrain I wanted to be on.  Sure enough, we were able to trigger a LARGE size 2 avalanche (from jumping on safe terrain above the slope, after I had someone watch  from the side to make sure there was no skiers/boarders below). It was at the top of the widest bowl off the north side of Round Mountain (NE Side) for those that know the terrain. The avalanche was 60-85 cm deep, 60 m wide, running 150m down almost to the flats. Even though the failure plane was on the surface hoar, I think it would have stepped down to the facets and crust if the terrain had been bigger (wider and longer bowl), or the slab properties a bit stiffer.

 

There was plenty of blower pow to be had up there, but have to admit there are many lines up there I wouldn’t touch today.

Many groups heading into the Elfin Lakes hut for New Years. Good time to use the designated ‘winter route’ with the orange stakes.

 

Keep in mind this weak snowpack is very unusual for the Coast, and is not likely to heal quickly. Stick to low angle terrain, well away from avalanche slopes above. If you are not really sure what this means, or have difficulty holding back when you see those big powder lines, it might be best to enjoy the in-bounds slopes for a while.

 

Brian Gould

Mountain Guide

 

 

[MCR] Musical bumps

Went for a tour on the N side of Flute yesterday. A largely overcast day
with moderate SW winds and a few "exquisite" sunny breaks in the
afternoon. The skiing in the upper alpine was quite wind affected and not
particularly great. As you approach tree line the surface conditions
improved along with the skiing.

Safe to say that we skied conservative lines and tip-toed our way around.
As reported by many the upper snowpack is quite interesting if not a
little unusual for the Coastal region. 15cm of low density (F) new snow
over a 15cm (4F) slab over 10cm of cold low density (F-) facets all
resting on the December 6th crust. Though this "sandwich" made for
descent skiing it also made for very challenging uptracks as skies
continually collapse through to the December crust.

We experienced regular whumping especially in thin rocky areas and any
area peppered with small trees. Though there have been numerous reports
of Skier accidental and remotely triggered avalanches we were unable to
ski cut any features and saw little natural avalanche activity.
Whistler/Blackcomb did produce numerous size 1-2 avalanches from ski
cutting on specific terrain features and from explosive control work

With forecasted precipitation and wind for the remainder of the week I
would expect the load and slab properties in the upper snowpack to
dramatically increase along with the hazard level. It is very likely that
the facet layer overlaying the December crust may be with us for a very
long time.

Keith Reid
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Whistler BC
keith@reid.bc.ca
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Glacier Gulch ice

The ice in Glacier Gulch on Hudson Bay Mountain near Smithers is now
well formed and fat throughout. I climbed the CPC (far right) falls and
the Middle Falls during a course. I cut and broke a trail to the Far
Right which is a pleasant 120 m grade III. The Middle Falls are quite
steep this year. The ice is still hard and brittle from the deep freeze.
We observed several size 2 natural avalanches over and beside the Right
Falls within one hour of wind starting to transport snow aloft. There
was no recent activity on the Left Falls, but I saw a significant
fracture line about 800 m above it. Both those lines and also the Left
of Left are prone to natural avalanches right now and I recommend to
leave them alone until things stabilize thoroughly.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rogers Pass

Skiing in the Pass the past two days with an epic deep powder day today. Trailbreaking off the old tracks was up to your hip on your uphill leg. The skiing was too deep for turns on the lower angled slopes. Below 1500 m things are still very bony though and it takes a bit of time to work your way through these areas.

40-60 cm of snow now overlies the old surfaces of facets and wind crusts. Where we were skiing in Connaught Creek at treeline this storm snow was not wind affected and we did not see any cracking or hear any whumpfing. There was wind at higher elevations though and we limited our exposure to alpine slopes above us.

There was avalanche debris out of Frequent Flyer that hit the uptrack, looked like within the past 24 hours, probable loose snow, size 1.5. There was also an unconfirmed report of a larger avalanche out of Cheops 1 that dusted the uptrack later in the day.

Good skiing but time to tread carefully, if any wind or warm temps gets at this new snow there will be a widespread slab instability.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Kootenay Pass

Touring at Cornice Ridge on Boxing Day the snowpack was delightfully more cooperative than further north near Nelson.  The late Nov. rain crust was absent right from the car at 1774m.  Snow depths were in the 90 - 115cm range below treeline with hard windslabs on the wind exposed Cornice Ridge.  The east aspect off the summit was as thin as 50cm where recent reverse winds had reduced the coverage.

The snowpack was mostly supportive making for some great turns with a ~30cm ski pen although the facetted base offered the occassional surprise sinkhole where unseen burried objects lay below.  Tree wells were particularly hungry.

No avalanche activity was noted other than surface sluffs in the new snow although visibility was limited.

Whitewater reported 17cm overnight with both chairs open and it continues to fall in Nelson as I write.

Happy turns,
Shaun King
Alpine Guide / Asst. Ski Guide

[MCR] Whistler, Duffy and Bridge River Ice

Drove North Yesterday and saw the following:

Lots of snow.

Entropy looked in (was climbed a week ago)
Psycho Pillar was thin, unprotectable, but looked like a great mixed climb on TR
The climb on the cliffs across from Gott creek was in and looked fat
Rambles were fat, Shreddie non existant
Carlsberg looked climbable and some steps on it made it easier looking than normal in the sense of climbing....protecting it looked epic if possible
Syncronicity looks really fat at the top but thin where you get on it at the top of the gully
there is a great looking Grade 3 gully on the south facing wall near at the fish hatchery lillooet

The Bridge River Canyon is the driest I have seen it in several years.
Capricon looked fat
couldn't see silk degrees
Gift and Theft aren't even starting to form
Shriek of the Sheep curtain doesn't touch down but the lower pitches are in
Nightn Gail was just a bunch of ribbons.

watch for avalanche hazard and snow drifts on the road on the Goldbridge Road

Conny Amelunxen
MG ACMG/IFMGA

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[MCR] Whistler backcountry conditions

I was out touring today in the Flute/Oboe area. Things are changing quite quickly out there. We had about 5-10 cm's of new snow during the day with a constant moderate wind from the SE. This brings the total storm snow on the 22/12/08 interface to about 30-40cms. Most slopes at ridge top are becoming wind effected and are making a nice ripe slab!   

Trail breaking was quite interesting with a constant double punch into the facets and rotten snow below.

We had a remotely triggered size 2 soft slab on the west side of Oboe at ridge top (2200m) from around 80m away. I  also saw a 1.5 off "pigs Fancy " on flute Mnt. 

Withe the forcasted snow and high winds I'd say that the snow stability and avalanche hazard could deteriorate quite quickly. At least the rocks are getting covered!

 

 

Craig McGee,  Mountain Guide
Whistler BC
604 902 0296

craigskibum@yahoo.com

[MCR] South Coast Avalanche Hazard

The Canadian Avalanche Centre has put out a special bulletin addressing the avalanche hazard on the south coast. This forecast warns of an up coming storm and warming temperatures for this weekend. It can be found at
http://www.avalancheinfo.net/Media/2008-09/SPAW%20081224%20South%20Coast.pdf.
 
Precipitation has been locally heavier that predicted in many areas around the South Coast and reports of avalanches on logging and other access roads (as low as 200meters above sea level) are starting to filter in. These avalanches are starting at and below treeline. Precipitation will continue into the early morning, loading slopes further. According to local forecasts, tomorrow (Christmas day), parts of the lower mainland will warm to above freezing and the sun will start to poke through mid morning. Avalanche hazard will climb rapidly if this happens.
 
Due to localized heavy snowfall in some areas of the Fraser Valley and Sea to Sky corridor, the avalanche hazard may increase sooner than forecasted. It appears the CAC will put out another avalanche bulletin tomorrow for the south coast. Read it here: http://avalanche.ca/CAC_Bulletin_Regions.
 
I'll be tip toeing around the hills this holiday season.
 
Happy Holidays,
 
Conny Amelunxen
MG ACMG/IFMGA


 

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[MCR] Squamish Ice/ Shannon falls falling down!

Spent the day in the Shannon Falls areas climbing "Klahanie Column". Like Connie says its IN and in good shape. Although its beaten out and has good steps in the steep sections, its still vertical, chandeliered and it could be difficult to get good pro if you weren't comfortable hanging out in that kind of terrain for a while. 

There were many parties out to climb Shannon falls, it was a bit of a Gong show at the base in the AM. As the day went on so did the amount of water pouring out of the falls. It was a bit disconcerning seeing so many parties fumbling at the base and on the first few pitches with all that wet ice above them. Just as the last party (of the ones that didn't retreat) was completing  pitch 2 a major ice/slush and water avalanche broke off from above them and hit at least one of them!! To our amazement they were still there when it all ended! While we were there we watch a lot of ice coming down throughout the day. We talked to one of the climbers who climbed it earlier in the day and he called it a "Death wish!"

With fore casted warming temperatures I would imagine that conditions on this climb will only get worse as the week goes on. I'm sure many of the other climbs that are in will still be good for the next few days.  

 

Craig McGee,  Mountain Guide

craigskibum@yahoo.com

[MCR] Whitewater slack country Kootenays

Nelson area snow fall amounts seem historically low for this time of year.

Whitewater ski resort is reporting 78cm at the top of the Summit chair and the Silver King chair is not yet open.  I poked my nose out into the openings of the Goat slide path and found that the 20-25cm of low density snow that sat over the Nov. 29? rain crust in the trees had slabbed up or almost blown away completely.  HS was in the 50 – 60cm range with well developed facets that reminded me of a typical Rockies snowpack.  Another crust sits about 30cm off the ground.

I found 10 good turns at ~1950m in a tree sheltered area where the old wind slab was supportive beneath new snow.  After this the thin breakable crust made for challenging skiing.

 

Coverage looked sufficient on the Whaleback of Evening Ridge but the low elevation alders were so exposed, it didn't seem worth the trip.

 

Praying for snow,

Shaun King

Alpine Guide / Asst. Ski Guide

[MCR] Squamish ice

It looks like we have a few more days cold weather so here is what I have seen and heard over the last few days.
 
Squamish has 10-20cm of snow at sea level and almost 40cm at the top of the Chief. The sea to sky is mostly clear with slippery sections from Van to Squamish and winter driving from there north. Temperatures approached 0 degrees yesterday for the first time in almost two weeks. Sun aspect climbs were starting to detach.
 
There is ice across from Murrin Park. I havn't been there personally but people have been climbing there.
 
Shannon Falls is in and climbable on the right side. You must cross the river a number of times (easy) so expect to get sprayed. Thin in places and don't take the ice bridges for granted. Open pools would make rappelling hard. The left side of the falls looks thin and hard to protect but not much more than WI4.
 
Klahanie Column is in and looks like it spent a week in the Rockies getting beaten out.
 
Olesen Slabs are in as well as several FA's that have gone up in this area in last week.
 
The Dream saw a visit two days ago, although climbable, it did't look to protectable.
 
Rainy day woman (what is visible above the trees from the road) looks thin but climbable.
 
White Dyke is mostly rock.
 
Moving to Montana has a neat looking smear coming out of it (FA?)
 
U Wall drool doesn't reach the ground.
 
Diedre has no ice on it worth climbing.
 
There is some ice on the ramp to the right of the Sherrif's badge.
 
The obvious ice line on the Squaw was  climbed about 4 days ago.
 
The bluffs have more ice than they have had in decades. Alice on Ice is fat and has mixed possibilities on both sides. There are about five 20-30m pitches to climb on the walk up to Pixies Corner, all in the WI 3 range. I know it is tough not to, but please don't scratch up or bang pins in to summer climbs.
 
There is lots of ice across Squamish river, however the sides of the river are all iced over and ice flows on the river make the canoe crossing pretty daunting.


Conny Ameunxen
MG ACMG/IFMGA

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[MCR] Rogers Pass

We were skiing in Rogers Pass the last 3 days. Lots of wind effect in the upper edge of treeline and alpine elevations and below treeline still has poor coverage over the ground roughness so there is a bit of a narrow band where there is good skiing. If your powderhound nose is keen enough you can sniff out some good turns though. What you are looking for are treeline glades that are not too open and that are not north facing (to avoid the wind effect), and below treeline glades that are rather open (in the forest the trees have filtered too much snow and there isn't enough coverage, you will hit lots of wood and the occasional rock). However, below treeline you have to avoid glades that have alder in them, you will need a machete to get through the alders.

Avalanche hazard: Lots of wind crust and some areas of windslab, and it is difficult to distinguish between the two. Avoid the bad skiing and you will avoid the windslab hazard. In non wind effected areas we didn't dig as it was too cold to stop moving but we saw no evidence of avalanche activity, no cracking or whumpfing, and had no results with ski cutting on small steep slopes. We kept our exposure to complex terrain to a minimum though because we didn't have a lot of information.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Duffey lake/ Marble Canyon ice climbs

Drove through the Duffy lake area yesterday and this is what I saw. If its not mentioned here it was probably not "IN"as I took a good look around.

In the early morning light "Entropy "looked in? "that could mean anything in that light"

Looked like you could scratch up something in the "Syco pillar" area (mixed routes only)

No ice at all on "Blue moon on rye"

"Dream Cather" looked like it would be climbable

Looked like most of the regular climbs at the "Rambles" were in, however they looked quite thin compared to normal.

Carl berg was NOT in

The first pitches of "loose lady" were in. I tried to see the upper pitch, but could only see the ice on the last few feet, so?

"Synchronicity" was in, however the first few feet of the first main pitch looked very thin or rock .

"Honeyman falls" looked climbable, but there was a hole with open water in the middle up top.

Most of the climbs in Marble canyon looked climbable. The lower wall had lots of ice, but thin in places. The top pitches on "Icy BC looked climbable, but very hard"

It was -22 at the Rambles and -30 in marble canyon...

All in all I was surprised to see very little free water that could freeze in these temps. It looks like it must have been very dry up there fopr the past few weeks, hopefully it warms up at bit!

 

Have Fun,

 

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

cell 604 902 0296

craigskibum@yahoo.com

[MCR] Howsons 15 Dec 08

Today we shovelled out the lodge and got it ready for the season. There
are 140 cm of snow at the lodge (1030 m). At 1470 m on the Solitaire
Meadows, there are 260 cm of snow. We dug a test pit and found moist
snow at 0 degrees 130 cm down. The air temperature was -18 and the snow
surface -22. There are many crusts embedded in the moist snow, but we
only found shears in the upper layers. There has been some reverse
loading out of the E the last few days and we saw a few size 2
avalanches that had run on W aspects. Otherwise, there was older debris
from the rain event last week and one size 2 on a steep rocky south
aspect. Ski cutting of steep and often windloaded pockets had very small
results. We think the stability is fair in the alpine and good below,
but our observations are still limited.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Monahsee mountains - Perry River - Dec.10-14-08

Here is some information on conditions I observed while working at a Cat skiing operation located above the Perry river (@20 km. north of the Trans Canada on the western side of the range) in the Monashee mountains.

 

Snowpack varies between 80-100cms. below 1800m. and 130-180 above that elevation – significantly less than Rogers Pass which is unusual for this area. That said the recent storm snow from the weekend of Dec.6 & 7^th (@80cms.) as well as the further 20cms. that fell on Dec.12^th has settled out quite a bit and helps to keep you off the low season hazards. Windslabs now exist in exposed treeline and all alpine terrain after the wind event that occurred on the night of Dec.12^th. The other main issues are the Dec.1 crust down 60-80cms., which is not producing any significant results in snowpack tests, and the Nov.21 crust/facet combo down 80-100cms., which though it is still not producing much in test results, lingers as the main issue in the back of my mind.

 

Avalanches: We had no skier triggered activity over the period though the snowcat did trigger several intentional avalanches (to size 3) by pushing large cornices/piles of snow over the ridge onto a steep west facing piece of alpine terrain that, based on the depth of the fractures, appeared to run on the deeper crust (though we didn’t have an opportunity to investigate the failure plain). We also did some explosive control that produced a couple of size 2.5 avalanches out of wind affected alpine features.

 

So for now the skiing is good at and below treeline where the wind didn’t get at things but watch out for the shallow snowpack hazards and give caution to larger features at treeline especially if they have seen any wind affect.

 

Best of the season to all,

 

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Rogers Pass, Dec 13/14

Skied in Balu drainage on Saturday and Bostock on Sunday. -25 air temperature with ridge top winds blowing north at 50 km/h.  Constant work to stay warm.

The snow is punched in the alpine and on most exposed places at treeline.  In good light you can see giant waves of windblown snow (sastrugi) on the surface from kilometers away.  The north wind has reverse loaded things and pushed drifts into strange places.

Profile at treeline in Balu (2100m) showed 80 cm of recent storm snow on top of the Dec 1 crust which is decomposing here and looked weak.  No test results on that crust but I wouldn't trust it.  Profile in Bostock at 2100m showed 100 cm of storm snow on the Dec 1 crust which is thinner and not as facetted.  Still a feature to watch but not as bad here (total snowdepth 200cm).  Numerous shears in the storm snow as well as a surface windslab on all exposed areas.  However, my sense was that the -25 has mostly taken the punch out of the snowpack and I did not observe any avalanche activity in two days.  Avoided steep starting zones where the wind had been (and the skiing was terrible!)

Good skiing in sheltered glades at treeline on S and W aspects.

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide

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[MCR] Squamish ice conditions/Rainy day woman

Bruce Kay and I went looking for ice in Squamish today after hearing rumors of some climbable routes. 

We didn't find that much that was actually thick enough to climb and we looked around quite a bit. We did manage to climb Rainy day woman. The climb is in quite good shape although the last pitch wasn't in yet. The first pitch was very thin as usual (1/2- 2 inches thick), however it took excellent small to med cams and wires off to the side in the crack. The second pitch took 13cm screws and a med size cam. Looks like things are about to get really good!

 

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

cell 604 902 0296

craigskibum@yahoo.com

[MCR] Whistler/Blackcomb backcountry conditions

Went for a tour out to Decker Mountain today. Surprisingly there is a fair bit of ski-able slopes out behind Blackcomb at the moment, although there are alot of hazards out there too. 

The only really good places to ski are were there was some snow left over from last winter or on glaciers. 

All the glaciers we skied on today (Decker and Spearman Gl.) had many open crevasses and you had to be quite careful were you went. I sure wouldn't want to be out there in a white out! We probed around a fair bit and found an average of 120cm's over the summer firn. With the high winds and rain we had earlier in the season it has made a fairly good "feel" on the glaciers, but don't be fooled 120cms over a crevasse bridge really isn't that much. When heading out on any glacier right now I'd make sure I had a rope and harness and a long probe for probing.

We also notice quite a bit of wind effect throughout the alpine, some wind slabs that were developing were over 1m thick!  We had several settlements throughout the day and saw one skier triggered slab that I would have been wanted to be caught in. 

Of course one of the biggest hazards out there right now are the rocks. Not just for the hazard while skiing, but also if you were caught in any size of avalanche that ran though these hazards it would not be good. 

There is some good skiing out here, but just be careful and prepared for these not so normal times.

 

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
cell 604 902 0296
craigskibum@yahoo.com

[MCR] Dec 13: Haffner Creek, Kootenay National Park, Canadian Rockies

Saturday, Dec 13: Haffner Creek, Kootenay National Park, Canadian
Rockies

The ice was voicing dissatisfaction with the Arctic weather at Haffner
Creek today. All day groans and pops were emanating from the pillars
and daggers. Surprisingly, nothing spontaneously broke but a few of
the snapping sounds were loud enough to make us think they were close
to coming down on there own. We refrained from climbing anything that
was not well supported and hooked out. It is worth the reminder that
sub -30 C temperatures are not ideal for ice climbing. The ice is very
cold resulting in fragile pillars and brittle bulges that are primed
to explode. Definitely avoid hanging out under and climbing on free-
hanging icicles and skinny free-standing pillars (even on top-rope).

Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Stanley Headwall/Nemesis

Back to Nemesis today.

About 20 cm storm snow in the early morning, with an additional 20 cm
throughout the day for a total storm snow amount 30-40 cm, low density.
Total height of snowpack is around 70 cm at treeline. Snow rates today
were between 1 and 3 cm/hr.

Winds were mainly calm with just enough breeze at times to send torrents
of light spindrift down on our heads throughout the day. Otherwise, no
avalanche activity observed or heard, but visibility was quite poor for
the most part.

It's getting to the point where skiing up Stanley Ck is viable and might
be worth considering if can deal with the risks of early season hazards
and a weak base off the track. It would sure be a challenge with climbing
packs and leather boots right now. We walked in, which still works OK but
it might be worth considering snowshoes if skiing seems a little too scary
right now. 2 1/4 hrs moderate trailbreaking to the base, 1 1/2 hr back
down. A party on Suffer Machine today used skis for access and some hikers
came in on snowshoes.

The climbing was the same as the last time I was there a month ago: fat
ice with good pro, in excellent condition, though plastered with snow
right now.

>From what I saw of the "French Bench" approaching French Reality last
weekend (steep, facetted, shallow snowpack above cliffbands) I would
approach this area with caution right now, especially if it seems like it
got any wind or slabbing going on.

Hard sledding getting the car out of the parking lot! Bring a shovel if
you plan to head there tomorrow in case the plow doesn't make it.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Green Gully, Mt. Hunter, Rockies

Climbed Green Gully today which is located on the west boundary of Yoho Park, above the Trans Canada Highway.  Park at a pullout (road) , just west of the Yoho Park sign.  Walk up the right edge of a clearcut, onto the boundary cut line and follow it (sort of) to the route.  Its in a deep gully in a rockband - scope from the Beaverfoot road.

Lots of short steps that were wet and thin but easily climbable.  One pitch that was about grade 3 maybe, but otherwise lots of easy grade 2/3 steps with hiking between.  Probably climbed about 10 steps like this.

10 cm fresh low density snow in the area and a total of about 20 cm in the forest leading up to the route.

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide
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[MCR] Reality Check

This climb is now in good shape with several lines that go at grades IV
and V. We put a rope sling around two good trees at the top so there is
an anchor for the season.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Kananaskis Country Beacon Basin

I response to a few question we have received I wanted to let everyone know that the Beacon Basin training park in Kananaskis Country (located at Burstall Pass trailhead) is not set up yet to do insufficient snow cover.  As soon as it starts to snow more (hopefully soon) we will have it up and running for public use.  Information about when it is operational will be posted on the Kananaskis Country Avalanche Bulletin Page so stay tuned.

 

Mike Koppang

Kananaskis Country Public Safety

403-678-5508 x223

 

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[MCR] Whistler/Blackcomb near country

We've been teaching an avalanche course the past few days based in Whistler. Below 1900 m we don't have enough snow to avalanche. Above that elevation there are isolated pockets with above threshold snow depth in areas with a rough ground surface. On the glaciers and other smooth ground we are seeing 75-100 cm of snow. The snowpack consists of a series of crusts with some weaknesses between them but our tests indicate it is quite stable. We have not seen any avalanches in the past few days.

Travel conditions are dust on breakable crust. Below 1800 m you are probably going to be walking. You cannot access snow covered terrain without the lifts.

Think snow!

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com

[MCR] Rogers pass ski conditions

No technical info here, but we went up for a quick burn a bit above Balu pass towards peak 8812. Surprisingly the skiing above 6000 ft was EXCELLENT! Really! The groups coming down the south bowl above looked like they were enjoying themselves too. At around 7000ft there was 20+ cms of new snow with no wind effect, above 7000 there looked to be 10cms more than this0. Below 6000ft full body armor is suggested , along with ice skates for the trail. Have Fun. Craig

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
craigskibum@yahoo.com
cell 604 902 0296

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Glacier Gulch

John Kelson and I climbed the Right Hand Falls in Glacier Gulch today.
After plus 7 degrees and heavy rain on Sunday, temperatures have dropped
to a more congenial -9. The ice is still a bit thin in places and there
is a lot of water running, but it's climbable at a comfortable grade III
with little fear of avalanches. The right hand variant is thin, wet and
has a lot of daggers. The other lines are almost there.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Goat Traverse and Yam Area (1 Dec)

Out climbing in the Yamnuska area today where I found some fairly good rock conditions (for December). For those tired of lining up for limited ice or root skiing while we wait for winter to properly arrive, here's what I saw. 

The clouds and precip clogging the valley around Canmore throughout the day were blown off the Goat Area by strong-to-gale force winds at ridge-top, so there was only the slightest dusting late in the day. Since the system was still parked to west of the range-front at day's end, with any luck these conditions might linger for a bit.  

Goat Peaks Traverse

In spite of the somewhat plastered look of all the upper east faces, the traverse across the Goat Peaks was surprisingly dry and snow-free with a little routefinding. Only the final 50m descending to the col at the Yam shoulder had unavoidable snow (no ice) and was trickier downclimbing.  If you haven't done it, this traverse is a good "fitness" day and although mostly a lot of scrambling, the second half has enough exposed/techy ridge bits and routefinding to keep the climbing interesting. Round trip from Graymont is 5-10 hours via Yam (incl. ~7km on the road).

Coire Dubh

From a (good) distance, the bottom ice looked almost 'in', but the top is definitely still a rock climb.

Yamnuska

Climbing on the west end of Yam was snow and ice-free and quite pleasant (again, for Dec.) The backside (what I saw of it) and west descent trail were snow-free, and the rest of the face looked quite dry.

Carl Johnston

ACMG Rock Guide