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Saturday, November 29, 2008

[MCR] Rogan's Gully and Cascade

Climbed Rogan's today. It was reasonably dry but still quite thin in
most places. The initial and final pitches are in normal WI2 shape but
a but thin to protect.
There are a few mixed steps in the middle of the climb that are short,
but hard to protect and a bit tricky. There was zero snow at the start
or the finnish of the climb.

The final pitch on Cascade was falling apart as we walked past it on
the way down. I would leave this climb alone until it cools off and
fattens up.


Rob Owens
Alpine Guide

www.robowensguiding.com
www.rockies-ice.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Reality Check Hudson Bay Mountain

Scott MacMillan and I played around on Reality Check today. It is in and
climbable, with some wet areas and few daggers, some of which we
removed. Most lines are quite steep this early on, but the ice is thick
enough for good pro. -0.5 degrees at noon and quite a bit of water
running. The ski hill is now open with fast and easy access.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Louise Falls etc.

I took a leisurely stroll to Louise Falls yesterday in the pm. Getting to the cave at the base of the pillar looks climbable, however, as usual, exposed to ice fall from daggers hanging off the cave. The pillar is in but sporty looking. The top pitch out to the tree looks very thin and chandeliered. A party of three descending on the lake trail reported good conditions on Linda Ice Nine with the last pitch being quite chandeliered.

 

Cheers,

 

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide (ACMG/IFMGA / UIAGM)

www.ontopmountaineering.com

 

Thursday, November 27, 2008

[MCR] Weather information

I am happy to report that the data from the mountain remote weather
stations in Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks is now available on
line with our partner, the Canadian Avalanche Association. Please be aware
that the data you will see is raw data that has not been manipulated once
downloaded from the dataloggers. This means that if it appears to be
gibberish, it probably is. Keep in mind that this data comes from
electronic and mechanical equipment run by a 12 volt battery and a solar
panel in a harsh environment.. Data is transferred by radio and phone
modems. They do not always work and erroneous information is not uncommon.
Don't plan your outdoor wardrobe with this information. There are
currently still a few details to work out in the presentation on the
website. The most glaring one at this time for each reading is the
displayed date and time. Bookmark the page below and scroll to the bottom.

http://avalanche.ca/CAC_Weather_Images

Marc Ledwidge
Manager, Mountain Safety Programs
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

[MCR] (no subject)

Spent the last two days ski touring at Roger's Pass.

Overall ski quality was good to excellent, but snow coverage below 1800m is still seriously lacking. Nov 24 was spent in Hospital Bowl and Ursus Trees. At 2400m air temp was -5 and ski pen was 15 to 25cm. Though there was some minor wind effect, skiing was excellent. On steeper SW aspects there was a 1 to 3 cm thick sun crust in the Ursus Trees area. Compression tests gave consistent moderate to hard results down 25 to 35cm.

On Nov 25 we traveled through Bruin's Pass to ski the glacier on the north side. Overnight surface hoar had grown up to 10mm below tree line. On the glacier variable wind effect has resulted in everything from ruffled snow to a thin, breakable, 4F wind crust that was still very skiable, though not quite as fun. Hs at 2400m was 220cm and air temp was -6. We descended 8812 Bowl on the way home and despite the abundance of weekend ski traffic, skiing was quite good. Though we observed no recent avalanche activity, there was evidence of widespread avalanche activity (both natural and skiier triggered) on steep lee features to size 1.5 that probably occurred within the last 4 to 5 days.

Have fun out there!

Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide




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Sunday, November 23, 2008

[MCR] Glacier Gulch Ice

In preparation for a course, I checked the ice in Glacier Gulch today.
At 1400 hrs, it was -2.5 and snowing lightly at the base of the falls.
The height of snow was 60 cm. At timberline and above, there were strong
southerly winds and a lot of snow was transported. The ice above the rec
site is very thin and barely climbable. Left of Left is in, but thin,
with avalanche debris at its foot. The Left falls are in, but barely
climbable at the climber's left with a lot of water running further
right. The Middle Falls are almost formed, but thin and there a a few
daggers on the side. The Right Falls are in, but have been scoured by
size 2 avalanches already. The two lines on the right are sketchy.
Giving it another week might be a good idea.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

[MCR] Maligne Lake Bald Hills- Jasper area

Skied up to Bald Hills yesterday to make sure it was as shallow as it
looked around Jasper
About 10-15cm on the ground in the parking lot made for easy travelling.!
Once on the the summer trail turnoff the snowpack is about 25-30cm
with a hard crust in the middle of the pack. This carries skies quite
well and travelling was pretty good. (would not be good on foot)

At 7000ft in the alpine there is about 45-50cm. top 15cm is loose,
then there is a 5cm melt freeze layer (which tends to keep you off
the ground) ....then a weaker layer to ground. Quite a few "whumphs"
in the wind exposed areas up higher....no signs of any avalanche
activity but it does look like there has been a lot of wind.

I skied cautiously down the road but it was actually not to bad...considering.
Early season for sure! but nice to get out.


Peter Amann
Mountain Guide, ACMG
pamann@incentre.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Saturday, November 15, 2008

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Report for the Rocky and Columbia Mountains November 14, 2008

Winter has finally arrived to the Alpine with approximately 40 cm of new in
the Rockies and approximately twice that amount having fallen in the
Columbias at the upper elevations this week. This new snow has allowed for
some decent travelling on skis on smooth slopes at and above treeline. The
other factor that is helping the travelling is the presence of a series of
strong melt freeze crusts in the lower snowpack. The upper crust in the
series was buried on November 2nd and will become a major bed surface as
the winter progresses. In the Rockies there is only about 30cm of snow over
the crust and the bond is good at present, but a layer of mixed forms and
facets just above the crust that is already forming, and with the current
steep temperature gradient it is bound to get larger and will create the
perfect combination of weak layer over smooth bed surface. Steep lee
features in the alpine should be treated with caution with this barely
baited mouse trap.
The other major hazard is thinly covered rocks, and adventurers in the
slack country adjacent to Sunshine today were seeming to think that their
bones were impervious to them. Take it easy with the marginal early season
conditions!

Access to the Icefields would be arduous, but good travel conditions should
be expected on the ice. Strong winds associated with the snowfall this week
will have covered many of the crevasses, possibly with only very thinly.
Take your glacial travel gear (rope harnesses and prussics) and make good
use of a probe if you are headed that way.

Ski and avalanche condition reports are minimal from the Columbias, but one
party reported excellent skiing at treeline in the Sale Mountain area north
of Revelstoke. Access was by 4 X 4 truck, sled then ski touring. A
snowpack of well over a meter with a well settled base was the extent of
the snow report for this region. Access will be an issue for those headed
out, and it is quite likely that the November 2nd crust will also be found
in the Columbia Mountains.

Ice climbing conditions in the Rockies are getting better daily on north
facing slopes with multiple ascents in Ranger Creek, and of the Replicant
and Nemesis reported. A size 1.5 slab avalanche was noted above Bourgeau
Left hand (not formed) that likely ran on the crust, so the usual cautions
about climbing below steep loaded bowls definitely apply. Be ready for thin
sections with less than ideal screw placements.

This is the last scheduled Mountain Conditions Report for the season, as
the regular avalanche bulletins from Parks Canada and the public avalanche
bulletins from the Canadian Avalanche Center are beginning. Have a great
winter and look for up to date climbing conditions here throughout the
season!

Brad White
IFMGA Mountain Guide


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Sunday, November 9, 2008

[MCR] Storm Creek Ice, Kootenay National Park

Nice climbing conditions in Storm Creek today.  'The Shocking Alternative' is in good shape with ice anchors/rappels, a bit stiffer than some others of its grade.  No rock gear used but some short screws were useful.
 
The approach is up the recent fireguard from the highway, left on a fire road near the top to join Storm creek, then bushwhack up the creek into the basin.  2.5-3hrs to the base of the routes.  Gaiters useful.
 
A little more snow than in Stanley Creek (15-30cm) but still little or no avy hazard on the routes at this time.  We did see some good sluffing high on the headwall with a snow squall late in the day, and evidence of a large old slab avalanche on a high N aspect.  Seems like higher elevations are approaching critical depth for avalanche hazard in this valley.
 
Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.flickr.com/photos/conradjanzenphotos

Friday, November 7, 2008

[MCR] Selkirk Mountains - Rogers Pass - Connaught Ck. Nov.5/09

I went for a quick run up Connaught Ck. on Wednesday Nov.5 (I know – desperate!).

 

As of Wednesday there was 10-30cm. total snowpack in the valley bottoms – which was basically one big crust with a couple of cms. of now snow over it.

 

At Balu pass there was 60-80cms. total snowpack, with 10cms. of low density new snow over a thick (30-40cm.) hard crust from last weekend’s warm up. Looks to me as though the crust goes quite high and things in the alpine are filled in enough that they look pretty smooth (except for really bouldery areas).

 

While the crust is covering up some of the early season nasties, it will likely become a real issue in the alpine and smoother treeline terrain, once there is sufficient snow loading it.

 

Wednesday night cleared off nicely but before noon on Thursday the next system began to obscure the peaks – snowline dropped considerably and there was more snow than the system on Tuesday (maybe 20-30cms.).

 

My suggestion is to give things a bit more time (cause now the rocks sticking above the crust are barely hidden) and then approach any open alpine terrain with caution until you get a better handle on what this crust interface is going to do – in other words don’t go jump on Video peak for your first run of the season.

 

Have a safe and fluffy winter,

 

Scott Davis

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Stanley Headwall/Ranger Creek Pics

Climbed Nemesis today with John F.  Route is in good shape, interesting climbing and good protection.  A few cm's of new snow overnight but probably still not enough for any avalanche hazard in the area.  Some pics are available at the link below of current conditions in the Stanley Valley and Ranger Creek areas.
 

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide


Thursday, November 6, 2008

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary issued Nov.6, 2008.

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued Nov.6, 2008.

 

In the Rockies, snowpack depths are still far from threshold values to even consider skiing.  In the Columbias, there is enough snow in the alpine for skiing for the very desperate but this will require air support or some serious hiking approaches.  Accessing the alpine from valley bottoms is really a non starter.  For the desperate without the means for air support, the pleasures of sliding may be available at ski areas with snowmaking this weekend.  Don’t bring your new gear. 

Ice climbing conditions in the Rockies are typical for this time of year with thin, difficult to protect pitches as the norm.  A number of guides have reported “relatively” good conditions on Nemesis, Twisted, Twisted Sister, the Replicant and the routes in Ranger Creek.  Information on many other areas is still lacking. 

 

Starting at about 1800 metres in the interior, and in alpine areas in the Rockies, soft slabs ranging from 10 to 30 cm are overlying a melt freeze crust buried  November 1.  This early season interface will warrant close watch over the next couple of months.  Right now, the likelihood of triggering these soft slabs will be of greatest concern to ice climbers.

 

Precipitation is expected over the weekend but the Avalanche Forecasters at Rogers Pass feel that it is unlikely that there will be enough to make a significant difference.  This is quite a different start to the winter from last year for both skiing and climbing.  More patience is required.

 

The last Summary report for the season will be issued next week.

 

Marc Ledwidge

Mountain Guide

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

[MCR] Stanley Headwall- Nemesis

Had a great day on Nemesis today. It was pretty dry and in WI5ish
shape. Great protection and although the climb did have several large
mushrooms and daggers they were all pretty solid with the current
temperatures.
On average there was about 15cm of snow at the base of the climbs.

Other climbs:
Clucking, Suffer Machine, and French Reality all are in climbable shape.
Killer Pillar is touching and very wet. Right now it is pretty skinny
but my guess is it'll be here for the season and quite fat.
The mixed climbs beyond Killer Pillar all have quite a bit of ice to
finish.
Sinus Gully is formed.
The Ice Cannibal looks ok form the valley bottom.

Cheers,

Rob Owens
Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.