ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 4th, 2007
We have fairly limited observations from the past few days, but they all point to the same thing. Like it or not, winter has begun everywhere above 2500m and even lower in some places. As of yesterday afternoon there was over 100cms of snow at 2000m on Mt. Mackenzie above Revelstoke. This morning in Glacier Park there was 40 cms at Fidelity station (1905m) and slush on the highway at the summit of Rogers Pass. Remotely triggered windslabs 4 days ago and recent windslabs up to 200cms thick reported out of the Asulkan Hut. Snow fell at the Bugaboos parking lot. In the Rockies, avalanches up to size 2.5 were observed running off rock slabs in the front ranges and there is snow on the ground at 2000m's at Lake O'Hara. It is 2c and snowing fairly briskly at 6pm in Canmore so I think it is not too much of a stretch to say climbing conditions are terrible "almost" everywhere at the moment. There has been a little less snowfall at the Columbia Icefields and guides have been climbing there successfully but carefully in the last couple of days. One large loose snow avalanche ran off the Silverhorn on Athabasca.
There may be some icy dribbles somewhere that may offer some sporty early season ice climbing. Keep in mind that these icicles are probably just barely stuck to rock that was warm fairly recently. MOST IMPORTANTLY, the climbable ice is very likely at an elevation and in terrain where the avalanche danger should be assumed to be unacceptably high for the next couple of days at least. In the short term, I would only consider climbing ice where I can CLEARLY see all the terrain above the route is mostly snowfree. I have no idea where this place would be, but good luck if you find it.
Please keep in mind that the avalanche forecasting situation in early october is very different from midwinter when the Canadian Avalanche Center has daily observations from hundreds of proffesionals working all over the ranges. We have a handful of observations from scattered locations but they are all from proffesional guides and with the exception of the Columbia Icefields, they all say "Bad".
Obviously, skiing is a consideration with all that fresh snow. Again, it should be assumed that the avalanche danger is high and skier triggered avalanches are very possible. All the usual early season caveats about skiing over poorly covered rocks, stumps and alders apply. Now think about how ugly it would be going for a ride in an avalanche over all that junk.
Glaciers are nice and white now. Those huge crevasses left open at the end of the summer have anywhere from 50-200cms of unconsolidated new snow over them. Enough to completely camouflague them while offering no bridging strength whatsoever. A probe would be useful as it should still be easy to feel the crevasses. If you can easily feel the crevasses, I bet they can easily feel you. A rope, used well, with a rescue savvy team, would be even more useful as it is perfect conditions for an unexpected crevasse fall.
Hey, how about just staying home?
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide