in great condition.
Snow level is at 4700 ft ( about tree line on the
Colman Deming route)
Camped at the top of the moraine (6000ft) were there
is running water.
We left our camp at 4:00 am with a great over night
freeze (0c). Crampons right from the tent.
Someone has put the up track right from tent city (
The regular camp at about 7000ft) up through
crevasses and steep slopes then right under icefall
on Colfax peak. I highly recommend taking the bench
100-200m lower. It's much more efficient and less
threatened from crevasses and the ice fall.
The Roman Headwall was in very firm conditions. A slip
here would mean a long ride down the Headwall. Proper
care shold be taken hear with either belayed climbing
It was quite cold on the summit with a temp of about
-5 or -10 with the wind chill. We got back to camp at
around 1:00pm with minor post holing for the last
1500ft.
Take Care, Craig McGee IFMGA
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.