my message across.
Here was the scenario, Awesome early morning (too early for the location)
but felt like getting some climbs in before the the first climbers got to
the area (Evan Thomas Creek). The morning was awesome good coffee awesome
moonlight spirit was high.
Got to the base of the route feeling good. After my first route confidence
was strong. By headlamp i enjoyed completing my second route before the
light was good enough to illuminate my second rappel. The ice had been
variable but good, a bit brittle in sections.
My first rap on the second route was relatively short i stopped at an
Abalakov, the routes all had multiple fixed stations of the sort, I set a
screw and clipped into both the screw and the "bomber" Abalakov. The knot
was out of the ice and the ice was totally free of any visible fractures.
After pulling my ropes through the anchor both ends were now on the ground.
For a moment i hesitated, the anchor looked good, no it looked really good
and i would be down in a short 30 seconds. However it could of been much
quicker getting down if i had not back up my sytem. But i had no real time
constraints or rush for safety i set a backup abalakov. I always back up
anchors of this sort, had i had a partner we would of back up with a screw
anchor. This time my system most likely saved my life. I leaned back and
within a second or so a block of ice with abalakov intact was accompanying
me on the rap. My anchor was set close to the initial Abalakov and the
shock was not really noticeable.
After hearing that folks use the Abalakov routinely in this popular area and
take them often as primary anchors i felt like i needed to say something.
Maybe it was the quick change in temperatures that might of forced the ice
to relieve some tension? Who knows, no visible or even location type flaws
in the abalakov were noticed. On my hike out the colours were really
bright, had a nice drive and enjoyed one of the best tasting coffees in my
life.
Patrick Delaney
ASS. Alpine guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.