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Sunday, July 31, 2005

[MCR] Bugaboos

Hi All,
Bugaboos are still in good shape for the most part with the schrund slowly
getting bigger in the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col.

Becky-Chouinard has been climbed a couple of time now with reports of
sections of ice and snow in the last few pitches. The regular descent still
has a big cornice over it and at least one party has descended the Ice Hose
where there seems to be a new rockfall scar near the bottom and lots of rock
on the glacier below it . The ice fall from the east shoulder of the South
Howser has been particularly active this year calving several times a day.
This threatens the approach to the B-C and East Creek, there are huge piles
of debris almost reaching the camp at the base of the Minaret.

The West Ridge of Pigeon still has a bit of snow and ice on the traverse
below the summit but is getting easier to negotiate and the Kain route on
Bugaboo is just about snow free. The snow and ice is melting really fast
these days and as it goes the rocks start flying!

All Along the Watchtower has had a couple of ascents this year with reports
of the long ridge to the summit being snowy and difficult still and that it
is hard to find water after the first 10 pitches..

Just a reminder, if you're not quite ready at camp, there are new toilets at
the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col and at the start of the West ridge of Pigeon.

Marc Piché


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