[MCR] Bugaboos

Hi All,
Bugaboos are still in good shape for the most part with the schrund slowly
getting bigger in the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col.

Becky-Chouinard has been climbed a couple of time now with reports of
sections of ice and snow in the last few pitches. The regular descent still
has a big cornice over it and at least one party has descended the Ice Hose
where there seems to be a new rockfall scar near the bottom and lots of rock
on the glacier below it . The ice fall from the east shoulder of the South
Howser has been particularly active this year calving several times a day.
This threatens the approach to the B-C and East Creek, there are huge piles
of debris almost reaching the camp at the base of the Minaret.

The West Ridge of Pigeon still has a bit of snow and ice on the traverse
below the summit but is getting easier to negotiate and the Kain route on
Bugaboo is just about snow free. The snow and ice is melting really fast
these days and as it goes the rocks start flying!

All Along the Watchtower has had a couple of ascents this year with reports
of the long ridge to the summit being snowy and difficult still and that it
is hard to find water after the first 10 pitches..

Just a reminder, if you're not quite ready at camp, there are new toilets at
the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col and at the start of the West ridge of Pigeon.

Marc Piché


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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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[MCR] Wapta: Bow Hut - Peyto Hut

Did a three day Bow Lake to Peyto Lake trip 7/28 - 30.

Bow Glacier still pretty much snow covered to the bottom of the head wall (where you enter the glacier 10 min above the Bow Hut) - some bare spots are showing higher up. Peyto Glacier is bare even beyond the level of the hut. Travel conditions were decent on 7/29 with the exception of the odd and random swampy patch (knee deep!). Today, 9 degrees at 4 AM at the Peyto Hut under mostly clear skies overnight - glad we were done with the snowy part of the trip and walked out the "weeping" Peyto Glacier. Somebody must have done some work on the trail going down the steep morraine between the research station and the Peyto Glacier outflow - nice little steps in the steeper spots - thanks!

Wind scoop below Mt. Thompson in great shape for crevasse rescue and cramponing excercises but beware of the corniced sections!

Jorg Wilz

OnTop ltd.
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Canada - Europe - Colorado
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Louis - bugs and bears

Bug dope was ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL today on Mt Louis, all the way up to
the Perren crack.

Bear 66 and her 3 cubs are hanging out on the approach trail. I know, I
had a real nice little conversation with her this afternoon: "Nice
bear, nice bear, I'm OK, you're OK, nice bear..." Let me tell ya she
was a lot calmer about the whole event than I was.

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Picture from Microsoft Picture It!

Here is a picture of Cavell from a couple of angles.

was up there a few days ago on the opposite side of the valley.
Probably hasn't changed that much since then.
Mid way up the lower section a faint rib leads up and left. I always find
it easier to cross here, gain the rocks on the left side of the main gully
and it is 3rd-4th class to the shoulder.
peter.

Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0
www.incentre.net/pamann
pamann@incentre.net

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for July 29th, 2005

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Interior Ranges. July 29th, 2005

Summer is definetly here in the valleys and up to treeline. However, above 3000 meters it still feels more like June than late July. This situation in the Alpine has been a bit of a blessing and a curse.

First, the blessings.

Snow cover is still extensive on the glaciers. Travel on glaciers has been generally excellent. All normal glacier travel precautions should be taken but almost all reports from guides in the field refer to good travel conditions and crevasses are generally well bridged for midsummer. Bare ice is starting to appear on the icefields and all low elevation glacial tongues are mostly bare ice. Alpinists are well advised to take crampons for all glacier travel. I personally haven't had to use crampons once this season but the odds of being that lucky diminish every sunny day. A good example of the excellent snow cover for late July is the Bugaboo/ Snowpatch col in the Purcells. All reports from the Bugaboos to date still speak of good snow cover, no bare ice and that the midslope bergschrund is just starting to require some careful navigation to get around. I am sure this situation is staring to deteriorate quickly but by this date in the past two summers it was very icy, require
d some tricky crevasse crossing and was subject to lots of potentail rockfall.

Alpine rock routes in the Selkirks, Purcells and Rockies are generally in excellent conditions on all aspects, with the caveat that low angle ridges above 3000 meters may still put up a good fight with deep snow and cornices.

Now, the curse.

The big classic snow and ice faces and ridges also still have extensive snow cover. The June monsoons have left the moderately steep terrain above 3000m with a spring snowpack that is still trying to adjust to summer. The long spell of poor weather never gave the snowpack a chance to settle and gain strength as it "often" does in June and July. Alpinists can get in some fantastic snow and ice climbing right now but you must be very aware of where the snow is in the melt/freeze cycle. Clear nights are almost mandatory for safe travel on the big,steep,snow slopes. Do not rely on simply kicking the snow surface to test it strength. Consider digging down, probing or at least poking with your ice axe to estimate the depth of the overnight freeze. Think ahead about how the daytime heating and the sun will cause the slopes on your route to lose strength during the day. Remember that generally, the higher you go, the more like Spring rather than summer it will feel. My personal obs
ervation has been that the snowpack consists of unusually large snow grains for this time of year and therefore it has the potential to lose strength faster than we are used to in summer.

After five days of good weather and more in the forecast conditions are obviously in a period of change. Avalanche hazard forecasting will generally become more predictable (generally stable conditions with a good freeze, deteriorating stability with daytime heating and solar radiation) if the forecast is correct and more rock and ice will start to appear. The downside of this is that our old summer nemisis, rockfall, shall start to increase. The retreat of permanent ice has meant LOTS of rockfall in terrain that hasn't seen the sun in hundreds of years and is now melting out. Think hard about where you are going and when and where you might expect spontaneous rockfall.

Larry Stanier
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[MCR] PR for the MCR

Hi folks:

The following organizations/web sites have been made aware of the new MCR:
- live the vision
- rockclimbing.com
- rock and ice site
- mountain magic
- ACC
- Parks Canada

If you know of anyone else we could tell, please either forward the
coordinates to my email address, modrock at Informalex dot org, or (even
better!) spread the word yourself and let me know whom you've contacted.

Feel free to use the following by way of an introduction when spreading the
word (or compose something of your own):

---------------------------------
I am pleased to announce the new public Mountain Conditions Report.

A group of trained and certified, professional guides with support from the
Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) has launched the "Mountain
Conditions Report" (MCR). The MCR consists of field observations made by
trained and certified professional guides.

Reports are posted on an irregular basis, when guides see something worth
noting. In addition, we endeavour to provide a weekly synopsis every
Thursday evening or Friday morning which summarizes general conditions.

All reports and synopses are prepared and submitted by guides on a volunteer
basis and the ACMG provides administrative and technical support to make
public presentation of this information possible.

The goal of making this information available to the public is to assist
recreational mountaineers in planning their trips and aid the process of
making reasonable, informed decisions when in the field.

You can use the MCR in two ways:
- subscribe to receive bleeding edge reports straight to your inbox
- look through the MCR postings with your web browser.

For more information and to sign up, visit http://acmg.ca/mcr

Please help us by spreading the word!

Regards,
Tom Wolfe

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[MCR] Summary of conditions July 27

Mountain conditions to date in the Rockies and Interior July 27, 2005

Since the end of winter, snow conditions in the high alpine have been tricky to evaluate for alpinists. Following a warm and generally sunny month of May, above normal precipitation occurred in June. This included heavy rain to mountaintop during some of the storms as well as significant snowfall events above 2750 metres.

By early July, this resulted in a layered snowpack with everything from wind slabs to wet layers to thin melt-freeze crusts. Since July 20, more seasonal weather and temperatures have started to affect the ranges. Warm daytime temperatures are beginning to penetrate the upper layers and the odd clear night has occurred. This has resulted in some crust formation following those clear nights. These crusts have been short lived however, and without more and consecutive clear nights, crusts will remain relatively thin and will not last very long.

The snowpack described above has several potential weak layers deeper in the snowpack, which are still of concern. Daytime avalanche cycles have been starting as early as 10 or 11 am and are an indication the deeper weaknesses will become unstable quickly when warming occurs. With a number of potential weaknesses in a snowpack, confidence level on steep snow slopes for alpine routes has been low. For this reason, many alpinists have been avoiding them, especially when the snow is being warmed by sun or high temperatures and on days when there is little or no crust formation overnight.

We are still not out of the woods on this one. A decent hot spell and then a more normal summer pattern of warm days and consecutive clear nights is what is needed to really get into a normal summer pattern. Such a weather pattern will promote the formation of hard neve (consolidated summer snow with no significant layers) which provides good snow climbing conditions.

Below about 3000 metres, dry summer conditions are present.

An update on current conditions will be provided July 30, 2005.

this summary prepared by: ML, LS, KK
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[MCR] Dazed and Confused today...

Thanks to M. Genereaux's retrofit, Dazed and Confused is now a fantastic
route--a must-do for Ass't Rock Guide candidates as it "has it all",
including about 40 m of traversing in the top 2 pitches alone.

It protects quite well in general, but in a few places you really need to
look around. Bring along the rack suggested in TABVAR's description (13-14
draws/slings is plenty though) and don't forget to bring a blue metolius
cam/tcu!!! You'll want it!!! And... do all of Genereaux's modifications to
the original line.

We cleaned it up a bit -- for a Yam route is has very little loose rock,
apart from scree (except for a block we tried to trundle that got stuck in a
chimney on the top of pitch 5, oops)/

Regards,
Tom Wolfe

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[MCR] Stanley

Climbed Stanley today July 27. It's in very good nick, well except for the last
100m of crotch deep wading up suddenly isothermal snow on a 40 degree slope,
which made life moderately terrifying for about 10 minutes.

We summitted at 8am and thought we were early enough, but an hour earlier would
have been nice. Near perfect snow to that point, but the upper slopes had been
getting sun for longer, a bit more east facing, steeper, all made for near
light-speed changing snow conditions after a warm night with only a radiation
freeze.

Keep your head up and your feet on the ground.

Mark

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[Rockies/Intalex] Fw: [MCR] mt. bryce access

> Hi gang.
> Just returned from mt. Bryce, heres the scoop on access. The Rice brook
road
> is driveable to the 4km mark, the road has been de-activated from there
> on. Still easy walking but not good for truck or bike. The bridge across
> Rice brook "has" been decomissioned as well. It was easily fordable ( knee
> deep ) about 50m upstream from the old bridge. 6 hrs is a good estimate on
> the approach.. sorry no route info... snowed all night, last night down
to
> around 7200' I am guessing 15 -20 HN above 10000' If your heading up
that
> way, I have some beta on a better route up from the logging road to the
col.
> than the avalanche path , drop me a line..
>
> Cheers Troy
>
> _______________________________________________
>

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[MCR] mt. bryce access

Hi gang.
Just returned from mt. Bryce, heres the scoop on access. The Rice brook road
is driveable to the 4km mark, the road has been de-activated from there
on. Still easy walking but not good for truck or bike. The bridge across
Rice brook "has" been decomissioned as well. It was easily fordable ( knee
deep ) about 50m upstream from the old bridge. 6 hrs is a good estimate on
the approach.. sorry no route info... snowed all night, last night down to
around 7200' I am guessing 15 -20 HN above 10000' If your heading up that
way, I have some beta on a better route up from the logging road to the col.
than the avalanche path , drop me a line..

Cheers Troy

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[MCR] OHara (fwd)

another fwd filter test
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[MCR] OHara

July 24th.

 

Bailed on Ringrose today. Good overnight strengthening down low, but very poor and inconsistent conditions in upper gullies on Ringrose S ridge. Some icy crusts, some good step kicking on open deep snowpack areas and really weak and wet isothermal snow in the gullies with water running underneath just to make it really spooky. Give it a clear night and it will be awesome but 30+mm of rain in 36 hrs does add up.

 

Biddle and Hungabee still have a ways to go. Glacier and Lefroy still mostly snow. Cathedral, Wenkchemna-Opabin, Odoray all starting to get icy and crampons will be handy soon.

 

Tarrant Buttress and Greenwood Jones on Temple looking climbable.

 

Larry

Larry 

[MCR] Bryce/Tsar access

Seeing as we're talking about access issues, I talked to the BC Forest
Service in Golden yesterday and access to some major peaks in the west
Rockies via logging roads is becoming more difficult:

BCFS Sullivan River Road: This accesses the south end of the Clemenceau
and Chaba Icefields, most notably Tsar Mountain. The bridge over the
"gorge" was pulled out yesterday. All other bridges will be gone by the
end of the summer and the entire Sullivan River will be inaccessible
and peaceful again for the deer and bears and all that logging slash.
So Tsar is once again a fly-in mountain or a major hiking expedition it
sounds like. I snooze I lose.

BCFS Rice Brook: This accesses the S Face and E Ridge of Bryce. Also
the west side of the Alexandria group, although that would require some
bushwhacking I think. Apparently this road has been decommissioned too
and I was told it's probably impassable past the wire gate at the top
of the steep switchbacks before the road wraps around the corner into
Rice Brook. It was uncertain if the bridge over Rice Brook was out, I
am assuming it is gone.

It depends on the Brook crossing, but if that is doable either by
bridge or fording then to get to the start of the approach to the S
Face would be only 3-4 km walking along the road. Then it's the hellish
slog up the avalanche path, which is bad enough going down, I've never
walked up it.

The east ridge approach will be longer, probably a good 10 km. Not as
good as 2 years ago when I drove to treeline and had a leisurely 3 hour
walk to the bivy at the col, but better than in 1988 when Sylvia and I
walked in over the Saskatchewan Glacier, Castleguard Meadows and
Thompson Pass!

If the bridge over Rice Brook is gone, this would be an excellent place
for a work crew to go in and spend a day putting in a wire crossing or
something. Even if the road is eventually impassable for vehicles from
the Bush River, Bryce S Face would be only a long 3 or easy 4 day trip.
And the route is a reasonably straightforward objective technically for
clients, easier than the normal routes on Robson, Assiniboine, Alberta,
Deltaform for those 11'er chasers. A bit "physical" though, mostly in
the approach up the avalanche path. The E Ridge would also be 3-4 days,
and if a client had the skills to climb Assinibone they could do the E
Ridge. And if they can do the E Ridge they can do Alberta. Probably.

I may be going to Bryce later in the summer and will let you know if
what the stream crossing is like.

Mark

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[MCR] Ghost Access Info

Went to the North Ghost yesterday to climb at Bastion Wall.

 

The big hill is in pretty good shape, but the June Monsoons did major damage to the River crossings. Dropping down into the dry river beds to the south Ghost at the usual spot near the camp ground right below the big hill is currently impossible, unless you're driving a tank. The river has washed out the bank and what usually is a gentle drop is now a 1 meter plus, overhanging dirt wall. Getting to the North Ghost works ok, however getting out of the river bed on the west side is really steep (but short), which made for some scraping sounds on our truck. Somebody must have worked on this, but bringing a good shovel along to improve the track would be a great service to the public (and possibly to your truck?). Also, a big mud slide along the way to the north Ghost past the bridge has been cleaned up. 

 

If you want to go to the south Ghost by car, your best bet is probably to drop into the river bed as if you're going to the north ghost and then drive down the river bed to the usual spot, as the exit on the west side didn't look too bad from the distance.

 

Oh - almost forgot: Great climbs at the Bastion Wall in excellent rock with a flagged access trail, a good number of new sport routes (which aren't in the latest edition of Andy Genereux's guide book) around the "Thor" area with no shortness of bolts! 

 

Cheers and good luck 4-wheeling!

 

Jorg Wilz

 

OnTop ltd.
Certified Mountain & Ski Guides (UIAGM / IFMGA)
Canada - Europe - Colorado
www.ontopmountaineering.com
(403) 678 2717 or 1 800 506 7177

[MCR] Neil Colgan hut and Fay

Just back from the Fay area today. Climbed Fay yesterday via west ridge, snow still isothermal but things are starting to get a little better. I climbed up where a previous slide had slid down to the ice. Good traveling on the glacier due to radiant cooling, morning temps 2 to 3 celcius. Beware of rockfall and wet warm snow. We turned around on Mt Allen due to crappy snow.

Cheers

Todd Craig

[MCR] Edith Cavell

Just thought I'd post a quick note on Edith Cavell.
Was there yesterday July 19th. Never climbed it
before so I'm unsure as to what shape it normally is
in, but it was great training for an aspirant alpine
guide the way it is right now. A good little snow
coulouir takes you to the scrambly bit. After this it
is all snow ridge walking and easy mixed climbing.
The snow was perfect cramponing on the way up but got
a little loose on the way down (noonish). It made for
a good challenge on client management and also just
really fun exposed snow climbing. We stopped a few
metres from the top due to warming conditions and a
need to get back to Canmore at a certain time, but it
is very doable. Most raps are covered in snow (so i
am told) but the down climbing was fine. Not sure how
long it will stay in this condition, but there was
still alot of snow up there and a cold night will make
it excellent travel!
Sarah

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[MCR] Little Sister July 18

Hi All,

Climbed the Grassi route on Monday with two.  Access to the old road is a bit tough to figure out but a lot shorter than it used to be.  For the time being it seems best to exit the Highway at the Stewart ck exit and park near where the power lines cross the road.  Follow the power line NW until you cross Three Sisters creek then follow the old road that parallels it on its N side until it ends at the old dam.   Three Sisters creek is still quite high with a few crossings necessary but you can keep your feet dry if you look around.  The FAINT trail to Little Sister branches off from a short detour around a waterfall that blocks the main trail and is lightly flagged as it works it way up and left across a bushy gully to the ridge.  Descent anchors are all in relatively good shape (8 half rope raps) and most of them have some new sling on them.  Bow Valley Rock says 50m rope is ok for raps but this would make for a fair bit of downclimbing, as it is a 60m is just sufficient for guiding.  Otherwise the description is good.

 

Cheers,

Marc Piché

[MCR] Hello & welcome

Hello:

I've just created the MCR list, which as you likely have figured out by now
is going to be the ACMG's public Mountain Conditions Report.

If you do not wish to be subscribed to this, please accept my apologies for
signing you up without your permission. Drop me an email and I will happily
unsubscribe you.

There should be an official welcome coming out shortly; in the meanwhile
I'll just briefly state the following:

1. This list will be freely available to the public for viewing the archives
or for subscription.

2. Only ACMG members will be allowed to post messages to the list. You are
encouraged to do so.

3. Additionally, a weekly summary will be prepared and issued on Fridays.
This summary will be based on posts made to the Informalex, the MCR, and
other sources.

4. You can still use the Informalex as you have always done for private
messages meant for ACMG members only. If you do make posts to the
mcr@informalex.org address be aware that these will be read by the public.
Please don't post the same thing to both lists, but if you make an MCR post
feel free to post additions or clarifications to the rockies or coastalex
addresses...

That's all for now, stay tuned for more news on this exciting development.
Thanks to Joe McKay (retired) for getting me fired up about this idea in the
first place, and to Mark Klassen for cracking the whip.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe

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